ceriglass? tool?

chrisnkaitlin said:
well thats out the way then. got this air compressor tonight. im going to give it a try on thursday when i have time.. see if this tool and stuff works
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If you want to wait you can. I should have my stuff Friday or Saturday I'd guess.

The tool will work fine, ceriglass and the pads are meant for da type, or rotary type machines. Just be sure to do a test spot to figure out your process. Once you have it dialed in, then proceed.

Good luck, and success to you!

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im waiting lol.. tell me exactly what size pads and what kind you use.. i tried with just the pad and my hand and it didnt turn out so good just made more scratches so maybe the tool will remove them..
 
I ordered the 3" carpro glass polishing pads. I'll use ceriglass with them.

You need the pad moving in order to remove the scratches. I also believe you need to break the polish down, which happens with working time.

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like i said the pad mad scratches just like the ones i was trying to get rid of.. i am pretty sure these scratches are from the 0000 wool i used for hard waterspots... im just going to wait and since u know more about this stuff see how your turns out. while your doing your ceriglass ill be installing my rock lights for my jeep..
 
Have you read any of the write ups here on polishing scratches out of glass? Swanicyouth, and Nicholas @autowerks, and Mike Phillips are the most recent I can think of. All of them make great points.

Glass polishing takes a lot of time! Hours, and hours can be spent clearing a window. Using it by hand wont break down the polish.

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chrisnkaitlin said:
like i said the pad mad scratches just like the ones i was trying to get rid of.. i am pretty sure these scratches are from the 0000 wool i used for hard waterspots... im just going to wait and since u know more about this stuff see how your turns out. while your doing your ceriglass ill be installing my rock lights for my jeep..
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I'm glad you posted that. IMHO steel wool is best left for messy pots and pans - not cars. Heck, it even scratches those. Maybe a long time ago steel wool was a detailing alternative for some procedures... But like the dinosaur, it should be extinct. I don't care how many zeros are in the description. If it's "00000000000000000000000 steel wool" - it's still steel, and it ain't wool.

But, people still use and recommend it for all types of things: glass, chrome, exhausts costing thousands of dollars - maybe someone even uses it on paint or their instrument cluster. Wouldn't surprise me in the least. Whatever steel wool can do, there likely is a product out now that can do it safer without the risk of incurring scratches or RIDS.
 
yes ken ive looked at the other write ups. thats what got me to by ceriglass in the first thing.. for me to use this tool i need the connector from the tool to the hose. i have one but its the wrong size. im going to try to get one today and see how it works.... and swanicyouth yeah ill never try any of that stuff again. im just going to go with practice makes perfect and try again today.. i mean i cant feel the scratches with my finger or fingernails so i mean they cant be that pad.. just a little time i believe will do the trick but im not really a patient guy.. ill try again later..
 
Even though you can't feel the scratches doesn't necessarily mean it'll be simple to remove. Be sure to work a small spot only, to dial in technique and make sure you're getting the results you're after.

I'm still waiting on shipping confirmation email on my carpro pads that I ordered earlier this week.

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ight man. im gonna mask off one of the serious spots and just go to town on it.. see how it turns out...
 
There ya go! Get on it.

I somehow got messed up with shipping of my new pads (clicked military in shipping area) and just got off the phone with Autogeek. Seems I wont have the pads till next Monday or Tuesday .....

Even if your tool works more like a rotary it should work fine. Start with a slow speed first, and work up till you're at a comfortable speed. I'd recommend an air adjustment valve to adjust the pressure at the tool, since you're running out for a new nipple anyhow. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.


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Hopefully, OP...
Sooner, or later; and with enough modifications---regardless of their costs:
your Blue Point Sander may just become a proper tool for sanding/polishing auto-glass.

whaat.gif


Bob
 
If the compressor has an adjustable regulator, you can also adjust it there. I prefer the convenience at my fingertips.

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it spins but not that fast. if you put pressure on it it slows down alot.. im going to give it another shot to see how it works out.... didnt seem like it was doing anything to the scratches on the glass
 
Yeah, its gonna be a slow process. The thin pad shouldn't slow too much, unless the compressor is having trouble keeping up.

How long did you work the product?

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porobably about 45 minutes or so. tomorrow i should have a good amount of time to give it a go for a bit. i know my arm started hurting though.. i came home a bit late so couldnt try as long as i had planned. like i said im going to give it a go again tomorrow when i come home for a while and see how it turns out. my gf says she see's a difference but personally i cant..
 
chrisnkaitlin said:
porobably about 45 minutes or so. tomorrow i should have a good amount of time to give it a go for a bit. i know my arm started hurting though.. i came home a bit late so couldnt try as long as i had planned. like i said im going to give it a go again tomorrow when i come home for a while and see how it turns out. my gf says she see's a difference but personally i cant..
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If you would: :Picture:


Bob
 
Well I didn't take any pictures of the glass and I apologize. I decided that there wasn't much of an improvement to even brag about or post pictures. I mean it did polish it. Looked like I was looking in a mirror but it did not remove the scratches like I had hoped. Idk why so maybe you guys can give me some input. The rayon glass pads I bought are pretty much eaten away. Falling apart now.. I'll probably have to order some more.. Idk why these scratches are so tough to get out. They are those light scratches all over the windshield everyone talks about as well as the few that are from the stupid wool I used... The direct sunlight and those night lights at stores and on the streets are killing it.. I mean I know there's a way to correct these. I've seen a ton of reviews of them fixing the same scratches that i'm trying to fix and what an improvement. Idk I'm so lost.. Maybe the wrong tool for the job?
 
Wrong tool. Those pads are tough as nails. I've used the same pad many times to remove defects and scratches. I bought multiple pads - but only needed to use one pad & it's still good.

IME to do this job correctly you need to buy 3 things: CerriGlass, CarPro Rayon glass pads, and a Griots 6" polisher. Only other thing you need is DI water. I've tried other combos - they don't work as well. You may be able to use another DA, but the power of the GG6 is 2nd to none. You may be able to use a rotary - I have no experience with rotary. Just like on paint, I'd be concerned a rotary may not finish as well as a DA (or may get too hot) - especially if one is inexperienced using it.

The pads have low mass and just fly on speed 6 (when wet) with heavy downward pressure on the GG6.
 
yeah as soon as i have the extra cash im going to buy the the griots 6" polisher but right now im in a tight budget.. i saved your thread on your glass correction and am going to copy you by the book. just got to wait..
 
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