2014 Black Mercedes-Benz E350 detailed by Mike Phillips
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Mike@DedicatedPerfection
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- Feb 26, 2011
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Nice job on everything, bud!!! I had a Duetto and 75E on order, but I cancelled. I'm going balls out 3401 since I already have it. Forced rotation, forced rotation, forced rotation!! I just bought the whole line of 6.5" and 4" CCS pads to use with the 3401. After seeing this, it makes me kinda regret cancelling. Oh well, it's all about the 3401 for now.
....Are you ok over there Mark? Didn't think I would hear you talk about the Flex like that....
WRAPT C5Z06
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- Nov 12, 2009
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Mike :laughing:
I cannot stand bogging or slowing down of the pad, so I've learned to deal with the 3401's forced rotation "feel". It gives the most consistent polishing results. :dblthumb2:
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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1. I like to mix things up. The last two MB's I buffed out I used Wolfgang.
2. I tend to be a systems guys, that is I coined the term Synergistic Chemical Compatibility in the detailing world as it relates to using products from a single line to buff out a car.
While I tend to like to do this for the compounds and polishes especially when they are matched to specific pads and the orbit stroke of the tool in this example, I also have to accept that not all brands offer a complete line for everything I want to use.
For example I used TUF Shine on the tires and Black Label Diamond Paint Coating for the LSP.
3. I like the cut of the Rupes compound and blue foam cutting pad and I really like the Duetto as compared to using the Porter Cable/Meguiars/Griot's type polishers.
The pad will stop spinning on convex curves and some raised body lines but for most of the car it works very well.
Those three reasons pretty much sum it up.
I used to reach for the PC for jobs like this but since last April I tend to reach for the Duetto first.
I have a very unique car to buff out hopefully this weekend but I'm planning on doing a rotary buffer only process to it to coincide with the rotary buffer class I'm teaching at Mobile Tech Expo the following week.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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Thank you Mike.
Ha ha... wel one thing for sure... buffing out entire cars, not just spots, keeps my skills sharp and my writing fresh.
I know a few guys in this industry that type a lot about detailing cars but I never see anything they buff out? To me, one of the most important aspects of my job is being able to walk the walk. We have enough Keyboard Commandos and Copy & Paste Regurgitaters in the forum world.
Nick tends to know more about the dates for new incoming products, I usually find out when someone places the new whizzbang whatchamacallit on my desk.
Thank you sir. I like both but find myself using the Duetto the most and saving the Mini for thin, flat panels.
Thank you sir.
Thanks Jaret...
One thing I do like about the newer E class Mercedes-Benz is there isn't a lot of plastic, rubber or vinyl trim to tape-off or be careful around.
There's some plastic in the very back of the car under the bumper cover. There's some black rubber trim around sunroof and windows but besides that they are pretty clean.
This is why I tend to like working on classics and muscle cars... they don't have any plastic trim to deal with. But these Mercedes-Benz are pretty clean. Maybe the engineers at Mercedes-Benz have been reading the forums?
Mike lambert
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- Aug 16, 2011
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Thanks Mike, I remember the system approach from 2005 when you were here at our shop, we use all rupes now and I think they hit a home run!
The mini is much easier than a pc with a small pad also.
I still cannot believe how nice the blue foam pad finishes!
The mini is much easier than a pc with a small pad also.
I still cannot believe how nice the blue foam pad finishes!
Mike@DedicatedPerfection
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- Feb 26, 2011
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Remember if you start on the Menzerna products such as FG400 and SF4000 to run them backwards with the 3401. FG400 speed 3-4 and SF4000 speed 4-5.
rops:Mike Phillips
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They certainly have made it simple with their color coding.
I'll be showing the Rupes Mini for isolated defect removal at this year's MTE, it's my 5th and last class for the day.
Mobile Tech Expo 2014 - Class Schedule
I like it but I do find it works best on flat panels.
I'd say it's freaky weird. (on most paint systems)
Mike, great article, and the car looks good.
I just acquired a 2014 black Mercedes sedan w/13k miles (color code 040...not the hard clear coating), and I need to pick up some new polishes to take care of typical swirls and spider webbing from improper washing, etc. I was thinking about the Menzera products to polish the car. Seems more I read the more confusing it can get. Your article focused on the Rupes system, and currently have a Porter Cable DA with typical pad selection of orange, white and black. Being a different system, was hoping you can steer me in the right direction for the PC. Thanks!
I just acquired a 2014 black Mercedes sedan w/13k miles (color code 040...not the hard clear coating), and I need to pick up some new polishes to take care of typical swirls and spider webbing from improper washing, etc. I was thinking about the Menzera products to polish the car. Seems more I read the more confusing it can get. Your article focused on the Rupes system, and currently have a Porter Cable DA with typical pad selection of orange, white and black. Being a different system, was hoping you can steer me in the right direction for the PC. Thanks!
LSNAutoDetailing
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- Jun 21, 2014
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Welcome to the forum Jim! With a lot of products on the market, one can get confused. Employ the Keep It Simple Simon (KISS approach).
Mike wrote the book (literally) on the entire Rupes system. Rupes (long before GG BOSS) was the first to build an entire "system" around the tool, the pads & the products to work with the tool.
As Mike states in his Rupes book, feel free to use other pads and compounds/polishes with the Rupes, but know that it was designed to work as a "team" with all it's peers (pads, polishes, compounds, etc..) however, the stated Rupes outcome may not be your experience (I'm paraphrasing).
With that said, you have a PC... Excellent machine, a work horse! The first and most important thing is to choose the right pad and product for the job. The least aggressive approach usually means a foam pad (not wool or MF) and some kind of polish or compound to abrade the paint surface to eliminate the swirls and scratches.
Always do a test spot!!! A 2' x 2' section, masked off with 3M automotive painters tape and go through all steps. Compound, Polish and wipe.. you may even put an LSP in the test spot. If all looks good, continue your process over the rest of the car.
The Cermiclear is identified with a "c" before the paint code. Which essentially means, if it's a new car, tread lightly. If it's an older beat car with swirls & scratches due to swirlomatic car-washes... do the needful for remediation.
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Paul, thanks for the advice. Have been testing with my existing PC without any success noticeable improvements. I think my old PC 7336 model may not have enough left in it's tank after 15+ years of hobby usage. I just stepped up on Sunday and ordered from the Geek a Rupes LHR 15ES with a selection of pads and Sonax Perfect Finish...should have it tomorrow! Having read quite a bit about these polishers, and I am really looking forward to dedicating some time in the next few weeks to give the car a once over. Will try and post some before/after shots along with comments.