OptiCoat 2.0 Failure

Depends on the applicator, but you should not feel any drag as you move over the area. Some time ago many were bragging about how little product they were using and I think they worked/spread the product too much. It's supposed to be wiped on...and doesn't need to be worked in. I think a little heavy on the product and force flashing gives much better and easier results. So ii would err on priming too much vs not enough.
 
Chris Thomas said:
Depends on the applicator, but you should not feel any drag as you move over the area. Some time ago many were bragging about how little product they were using and I think they worked/spread the product too much. It's supposed to be wiped on...and doesn't need to be worked in. I think a little heavy on the product and force flashing gives much better and easier results. So ii would err on priming too much vs not enough.
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Thanks. After being wiped on(not worked in) how long to wait to see if the "smearing" goes away before buffing with a MF towel?
 
You're welcome Mark. You can lightly buff away any smears when 90% of the panel has flashed clear. At that point, you'll only be removing excess product. And high spots (excess not removed in time) are not hard to fix in the first week by hand with a finishing polish. So if you do allow some to dry, it's better to fix it after it's dry than to use more pressure and try to buff it off during application.
 
Not to go off topic, but has anyone had to remove OC, and if so what steps did you take.

My understanding is that you have to polish it off, but incase of failure, how do you fix/reapply ect.?

Second question if you have a car with deep swirls in the paint(that has OC) is it possible to polish it out, than just reapply OC?

Would you need to test panels using a PTG and keep a record incase of either situation?
 
Legacykid said:
Not to go off topic, but has anyone had to remove OC, and if so what steps did you take.

My understanding is that you have to polish it off, but incase of failure, how do you fix/reapply ect.?

Second question if you have a car with deep swirls in the paint(that has OC) is it possible to polish it out, than just reapply OC?

Would you need to test panels using a PTG and keep a record incase of either situation?
Click to expand...

1 - yes, I have. Just treat it like you would treat a non coated surface. "If" it failed, "I" would just re polish the whole car, remove all or most imperfections and follow what Chris suggested as far as application is concerned.

If you have a panel that has swirls, polish the panel, and reapply OC. Make sure to use close to 8-10 cc per car. That amount leaves a nice thick coat. Do not remove too early. Use a hair dryer to "dry' the coating. Maker sure to have at least 6 quality towels to wipe the car. Keep it simple, OC is really an easy product to use. Go to youtube and look at a few application videos. Good luck.
 
The Critic said:
Based on my observation of how OCP reacts versus 2.0, I think I've discovered one possible explanation as to why "over handling" is a real issue with 2.0.

With OCP, the stuff will flashes fairly quickly and from what I observed, the excess (high spot) is wipes away cleanly because it has completely flashed away. With 2.0, sometimes, even after 5 minutes, the excess (high spot) is still not completely dry; so when one goes to level off the high spot, you will get some smearing….and that's when people start to wipe harder and cause issues.

Anyway, I will try Power Clean on this car as a last resort. This car does not get washed frequently, but I thought that the Nanoskin mitt would remove away any embedded dirt.
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Make sure the garage is warm, so that way OC 2.0 will flash around 5 minutes or under.
 
Update:

I re-washed the car and the beading return. I think the gloss enhancers in the Gold Class car wash soap were responsible for the original water behavior. At the next wash, I washed with Hyper Wash and found no problems. Regardless, I removed the Opti-Coat and applied something else at the request of the owner.

Legacykid said:
Not to go off topic, but has anyone had to remove OC, and if so what steps did you take.



My understanding is that you have to polish it off, but incase of failure, how do you fix/reapply ect.?
Click to expand...



I removed the 2.0 quite easily -- two passes with HD Adapt and B&S orange pad removed it. It is very obvious when you polish through the Opti-Coat.
 
Out of curiosity, what did the owner get instead of OC2.0?
 
The Critic said:
Update:

I re-washed the car and the beading return. I think the gloss enhancers in the Gold Class car wash soap were responsible for the original water behavior. At the next wash, I washed with Hyper Wash and found no problems. Regardless, I removed the Opti-Coat and applied something else at the request of the owner.





I removed the 2.0 quite easily -- two passes with HD Adapt and B&S orange pad removed it. It is very obvious when you polish through the Opti-Coat.
Click to expand...

What did you see?
 
Hi All,

I applied OC 2.0 over a month ago to my wife's car. I went to wash it last night and noted that the sheeting/beading on the hood and roof was not what it was last week. The side panels were fine.
With that said, the "spring" contaminants and spotty rain residue were pretty bad this past week. So I rewashed it and, this time, I added 2 ounces of Optimum Power Clean to the Optimum Car Soap bucket with 2 3/4 gallons of water. I used my foam gun also, about a half an ounce of OPC with an ounce and a half of OCS. After the rewash, the sheeting/beading was back.
I believe the crud was just so thick that it needed to be cleaned more than normal, if that makes sense.
The car is Glacier White but looked more like bright yellow green.
I only use Optimum products on the OC 2.0 and no toppers.
 
allenk4 said:
What did you see?
Click to expand...

When you polish a surface that has opti-coat, at first, it will feel like your pad is "hydroplaning" across the surface. After a few passes, you will strike-thru...and then it will feel normal again.
 
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