Nanoskin wash mitt fine grade will work great ant you can use it up to 40 times.
THIS!!!:iagree:
Congrats Lauren on the new 'toy'. :dblthumb2:
Seriously.... a combination of clay and the Nanoskin pad (or mitt) is exactly what you need. I held back on the Nanoskin for a long time at first then once you go there you'll never go back. Just make sure to break it in on a side window or your windshield first, following the directions (look for a little white foamy residue). That'll take care of most issues you may have when it's new that (could) cause marring.
http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-banana-lubricant-sealant.html
What really seals the deal for Nanoskin is how long it lasts, AND the fact that if you drop it you can rinse it and keep using it on your vehicle. Where if you're using clay you instantly throw it away!
With three vehicles you've already mentioned that you need to maintain, honestly.... Nanoskin gets my vote!
Ricardo is a new name to clay here at AG, no biggie there which one you choose actually. Meguiar's clay has yet to harm any Vette I've seen and you can find it and Griot's clay locally. Griot's is pretty decent clay too. :xyxthumbs:
The Nanoskin product comes in pads for your buffer, and hand held sizes. The buffer pad really makes short work of the whole claying, paint decontaminating process. And imo is something that you REALLY need on that new ride.
Lube? ONR at QD strength is the 'go to' for most guys these days. Of course one of the old (but expensive) standards is Meguiar's M34.
http://www.autogeek.net/no-rinse-wash.html
Nanoskin has their own brand Banana Ice all of which work just fine.
http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-banana-lubricant-sealant.html
IronX? On a new car, I think it's just as important as claying is. Microscopic iron particles that can come from the plant during construction and especially during hundreds, even thousands of miles on a train will be embedded in your paint and even though you buff it, they are still there. IronX actually dissolves the iron from within and leaves you a pure paint surface to work with.
rops:
IronX is a stand alone product you would use by itself, or in your favorite shampoo. It also comes in it's own shampoo these days. Smells like a battery about to explode!
The middle one is supposed to have a lemon smell, but I can't imagine it actually helping it that much. But it is REALLY good doing what it does.
(Pink one is the soap.)
Speaking of lube, you can actually wash and IronX, then throw a little soapy water back on the surface and use THAT as your lube.
I really wouldn't skip either of these steps. Done carefully you really don't have to worry about major marring. If you end up with some.... it's likely that hand buffing will remove it. Just do a few test areas and get the method down. (Maybe do it down low where nobody can see it!) :laughing:
I take it you don't want to buff it?
I only ask because it's been mentioned that you may end up with at least some marring. Dark colors show it worse than lighter ones, especially light metallics.
I'd just hate to have to deal with a new car, new paint, put in all the work then not take it to the next level. Then of course all the myriad of sealants that you have to choose from now. OMG....
Now aren't you happy you stayed away the last couple of years? Heheheeeee :laughing:
OTOH, just bring it down here to semi-sunny south of Atlanta where it'll be 17º in the morning ..... and we'll wait till spring for it to warm up..... then we'll make that puppy shine like a diamond.
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