The OFFICIAL Duragloss Enviroshild review thread, everyone!

I just joined the forum and read this thread about the Duragloss coating...I was sold lastnight and ordered a kit. I just bought a very clean 2002 Chrysler 300M Special and I cant wait to try this stuff out on it...especially since I am driving the car in the winter...*cringe*
 
Brodizzle83 said:
I just joined the forum and read this thread about the Duragloss coating...I was sold lastnight and ordered a kit. I just bought a very clean 2002 Chrysler 300M Special and I cant wait to try this stuff out on it...especially since I am driving the car in the winter...*cringe*
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Are you planning on doing a paint correction first? Also, really like that car, is it that dark blue color?

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Why yes it is!
17633795a81088a08a27f188eb9ee8e6.jpg


And yes, I plan on claying and prepping.
 
Brodizzle83 said:
Why yes it is!
17633795a81088a08a27f188eb9ee8e6.jpg


And yes, I plan on claying and prepping.
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Kinda funny how I thought it was, LOL! If I can suggest something, apply 2x's, leaving a day inbetween, to ensure complete coverage and please keep this in mind, the DGNCC flashes fast, I MEAN REAL FAST!

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Shut up Klasse...I know what you mean by "2X". Coming from you, that means about 6X, am I right? Yeah, I read this entire thread and saw you put 6 coats of this stuff on your Fiat...you be crazy dude! LoL

All joking aside, I have read through this entire thread and feel like I know how to apply it, even when I haven't even held the stuff in my hands. I will get a microfiber cloth and apply it instead of the included foam pads, wait 24 hours, then do it again. Just gotta make sure the weather cooperates!
 
Brod, let's be serious here, you read through the entire thread and said I did 6x's DGNCC, I counted 5x's but who's counting......wait, you are, LOL!

Temp is key with this product for sure, if its too cool it will smear and you'll need to wipe it in real good a couple times or wait till the next day and then wipe down the high spots. If you try doing it when its too hot and/or muggy, it flashes too fast or in the case of the later, smears again. I see nothing wrong with laying it down, not worrying about the high spots and then hitting them the next day with some QD and an edgeless mf.

Let's see those pics when your done Brod!

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Oh, is it 5x? I thought it was 6...it was like 1 in the morning when I was reading this thread so I was falling asleep between posts. LoL
Yeah, I know temp is a factor too...I'm hoping to do it indoors in my dad's friend's shop or maybe in my garage.
I'm super pumped to get this stuff! I am going to clay the car and have my friend Laura buff the scratches out, then I'll start the coating process. I want this car to look "out-of-this-world" amazing...or as close to that as possible. That and it will be great for the upcoming Minnesota winter months.

-Brodie
 
Brodizzle83 said:
Oh, is it 5x? I thought it was 6...it was like 1 in the morning when I was reading this thread so I was falling asleep between posts. LoL
Yeah, I know temp is a factor too...I'm hoping to do it indoors in my dad's friend's shop or maybe in my garage.
I'm super pumped to get this stuff! I am going to clay the car and have my friend Laura buff the scratches out, then I'll start the coating process. I want this car to look "out-of-this-world" amazing...or as close to that as possible. That and it will be great for the upcoming Minnesota winter months.

-Brodie
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I see you've got some help with the buffing, just asking but why aren't you buffing the car out, not giving you a hard time, just curious. As far as the process goes, I would wash the car after the buffing is done and the more time you spend here, the more "out of the this world" look your looking for is going to become closer to reality. Once done with another wash after the buffing and you move to the Squeaky Clean its ok to apply this by hand, trust me, its just a cleaner, you apply it, rub it in and then remove, no need to wash again as there's NO dusting with SC. Once your ready for the DGNCC start out with 1 spray for the fender for instance, see how it flashes and go from there. If you get "high spots', don't sweat it, trust me, they'll come out with additional rubbing on the spot and if not, just move along to the next panel, let it cure overnight and then use a spritz of your QD and knock it down, no problem. I learned that this product is temp sensitive and will react differently in different weather conditions, its just the way it is and not a knock against it.

Now I'm sure you not in need of straight jacket like me, so its going to be interesting to see your results and follow your cars performance. I see your getting ready for winter and this product is up to the task but like I've been saying, adding the 2nd coat will ensure complete coverage and also add an additional layer and that's not going to hurt anybody or any paint surface. I would also apply a coat on the wheels too, just make sure they're completely clean before applying, ofcoarse, the more you do here the better your results.

This product isn't alot of money, so if you've got a slower learning curve and use a bit more than others, don't worry about it, its how you learn and its how I did for sure. This is the 2nd paint coating I've used, DP was the first and I really liked how that product works out and dare I say, because it doesn't flash as quickly, its a little more "user friendly". I have this on my wife's Mazda 6 and it takes quite a beating and has been maintained with rinseless washes, touch-free washes and only using ECO TOUCH spray wax as a drying aid once, so the base DP paint coating is still laid down there and FWIW, I laid down 2x's DPPC.

In closing, like I said earlier, I and I'm sure others will wanna see the progress here, so please, post away pics and steps for us all to learn from. This product is still in its infancy, so the more input we get from "real world" users the more we'll all benefit.
 
Agreed with everything above. And the reason why I'm having Laura buff out the scratches is that she's had much more experience with buffing than I have. I am not afraid to go to town on my car with the Griot's random orbital and some polish, but she's using a high-speed buffer with the correct pad and polish. I do have a high-speed buffer as well, but do not have the correct compound or pad for the heavy-duty cutting needed to get rid of the scratches. And someone already buffed through the clear on a spot or two on this car, I don't want to add to it. LoL
Yes, I will be applying a 2nd coat and will definitely have to plan on a weekend detail session on the car so I can focus on the entire car and drive my '77 Dodge truck around if needed while the 300M Special gets pampered :)
And yes, I will post plenty of pics and videos of the "sheeting" since there seems to be a high-demand of seeing how the water runs off the car once the coating is applied and cured.
 
No, I have never done the 2-bucket process, and I need to get a 5-gallon bucket with the grit thing on the bottom. I know there is much to learn and that's why I'm here...to learn new and exciting ways to detail and to learn and try new products. I've always had very nice and clean cars, but they can always look better! Haha
 
Brodizzle83 said:
No, I have never done the 2-bucket process, and I need to get a 5-gallon bucket with the grit thing on the bottom. I know there is much to learn and that's why I'm here...to learn new and exciting ways to detail and to learn and try new products. I've always had very nice and clean cars, but they can always look better! Haha
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Well you've come to the right site and even better, the right thread for sure. I would suggest going to your local Menards/Lowes/Home Depot and get 2 five gallon buckets, one with measurements on the side, the other can be just a plain one. Your going to want to get some lids too, incase you decide to re-cycle the left over wash solution its good to keep a lid on things. The grit guards are for sale in the AG store, pick your favorite colors, LOL or maybe your teams favorite colors, I picked blue and yellow for instance. Not sure what wash media your looking at but I've been using the Aqua sponge for years now with great sucess, its available on Ebay and/or Amazon. This sponge is very pores and does a great job for me, its my choice of wash media hands down, you'll get other input from others but everything works, its just what your comfortable with, that's all. Then there's the rinseless wash, I would like to suggest buying Duragloss rinseless wash and if your not ordering a large amount from AG to take advantage of their free shipping, well you can order directly from DG, they've got great rates on shipping. I paid $5.00 for shipping o the Enviroshield kit as well as a gallon of DG rinseless and I suggest getting a gallon because it has so many uses other than washing your car, like making a quick detailer and clay lube for instance. This particular rinseless wash also has their famous Aqua wax infused into it, so while you wash it leaves behind a great shine too, its the best rinseless out there IMO:dblthumb2:

Your here to learn and we're here to help, like how this thread is going and can't wait to see the 300M special when its all done!
 
I just had an interesting conversation with the folks over at Duragloss. I have had this kit on my shelf for a few months and it's still staring at me to get my butt in gear to use it.

Here's what the conversation I had. Hope this helps.

Me

Hi. I purchased this product a few weeks ago and I am getting ready to use it as I will be fully correcting the car. I would like to know how many coats is recommended when applying this. I am also wondering what type of steps I should take to properly maintain. Is washing all that is needed? I typically use a detail spray or spray wax as a drying aid. Would this still be an option with say something like 921 Fast Clean & Shine Detail Spray? I also have 931 Rinseless Wash. Just trying to understand what I need to do as maintenance.

Thank you

DG Rep

Thank you for your inquiry. Only 1 coat is necessary. After curing (at least 3 hours) you can use 921 as a detailer and wash with 902, carwash or the 931 Rinseless wash.

Me

Jerry,

Thank you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for.

One last question. Is it ok to clay the car say 6-7 months after appliciation without hurting the coating?


Thanks

DG Rep

We do not recommend using a clay bar. You would have to use another coat of enviroshield. The best instant detailer would be to dilute 931 and spray on and wipe off.



Thanks,

Jerry
 
I'm just a "backyard" detailer but why would claying the car harm a paint coating? After a couple monthes, no matter how clean you keep your car, is going to get "gritty" and needs to be removed. I for one don't wanna keep rubbing my wash media over grit but that's just me.

Its good to know it cures in 3 hrs though and I've been using my Speedy Prep towel (fine grade) as a monthly maintence for "gritty surface contaminents" but that's just me.

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I'd think using clay would OK too but the test will be to see how the hydrophobic qualities compare afterward. Use lots of lube and it will help.


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Klasse Act said:
I'm just a "backyard" detailer but why would claying the car harm a paint coating? After a couple monthes, no matter how clean you keep your car, is going to get "gritty" and needs to be removed. I for one don't wanna keep rubbing my wash media over grit but that's just me.

Its good to know it cures in 3 hrs though and I've been using my Speedy Prep towel (fine grade) as a monthly maintence for "gritty surface contaminents" but that's just me.

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I'm with you on this one. I haven't used the coating myself yet so I can't attest to how claying will affect the coating.

richy said:
I'd think using clay would OK too but the test will be to see how the hydrophobic qualities compare afterward. Use lots of lube and it will help.


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That's a good idea.

I'm with both of you with probably using a fine grade clay or clay substitute. I may test a spot out and see how the coating reacts to being clayed after a couple months to see if claying will do affect the coating. DG may just be cautious so that they don't hear from anyone saying claying messed up the coating.
 
Its not just you Klasse, its also me too.

New grit (tree sap mist from April 2014 onward, 4/14/2014 was when I first apply'd DG coating) started slowwwly appearing on my car. I used Pinnacle Ultra Clay/Pinnacle Lube in July to remove this grit using baggie test as my indicator. 1 pass, 2 passes, 3 passes showed improvement on the hood panel but not to my liking. So I bought a 6 inch nanoskin fine pad and Glide lubricant. Got 98-99% grit removal on all panels, not perfect but close enuf.

Had no marring under am/pm sunlight. Gloss, beading, slickness was not disturbed from what I could see. And the warmer temps have kept the overall looks intact.

If you like the ease of WOWA, the looks of Z-2, the low pricing, you will love DG Enviroshield. Come OCT 1st, I will apply my 2nd coat for winter and call Irene.

My impressions...
 
richy said:
I'd think using clay would OK too but the test will be to see how the hydrophobic qualities compare afterward. Use lots of lube and it will help.


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I agree with this and I would like to think most of use more lube than the average person does. I used DG rinseless to wash the car and what I end up doing is this, I do the wash as normal and then, when I wanna use the Speedy Prep towel (fine grade) to decontaminate the paint surface, I spray more pre-wash AFTER I clean the area.

I'm not sure why I lost so much gloss with DGNCC but at some point I'll get an answer here.

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I applied dgncc to a 2000 civic this weekend. I did a one step correction (85%) and followed with SC, then a single layer of dgncc applied with a foam pad; temps in the
Mid 70s. I anticipate the car will be poorly maintained and/or completely neglected until November when I see it next. I will update whenever I see it. Until then, here's the beading and a gloss shot.
67704eb82f935f9f253c9525eababa1d.jpg

f64a2a83485a2618b74c865a52f33dfd.jpg


I do intend to try clay, speedy prep towel and autoscrub DA pad in November to see how it holds up.
 
Klasse Act said:
I'm just a "backyard" detailer but why would claying the car harm a paint coating? After a couple monthes, no matter how clean you keep your car, is going to get "gritty" and needs to be removed. I for one don't wanna keep rubbing my wash media over grit but that's just me.

Its good to know it cures in 3 hrs though and I've been using my Speedy Prep towel (fine grade) as a monthly maintence for "gritty surface contaminents" but that's just me.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
Click to expand...

Roger......think about it for a second. IMHO claying is abrading so if you clay you could be removing the coating....just as you could paint (clear coat).

not saying that's why DG says not to clay....but just my thoughts.

I can understand your desire to have super smooth paint and the need to clay every so often....

just throwing out there my perspective, when you coat do you leave it alone? Maybe we should.....but then again we are fanatics about clean, glossy, and smooth paint that we have to do something.
 
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