Marc Hufnagel
Member
- Apr 5, 2011
- 787
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That's not very durable if claying could/will kill it. Hmm.
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Roger......think about it for a second. IMHO claying is abrading so if you clay you could be removing the coating....just as you could paint (clear coat).
not saying that's why DG says not to clay....but just my thoughts.
I can understand your desire to have super smooth paint and the need to clay every so often....
just throwing out there my perspective, when you coat do you leave it alone? Maybe we should.....but then again we are fanatics about clean, glossy, and smooth paint that we have to do something.
That's not very durable if claying could/will kill it. Hmm.
Claying is an abrasive process. Also, clay's purpose is to remove contamination that cannot otherwise be removed through normal washings.
Every time I start thinking maybe it's time to do something, try a different product, to my car that has DGNCC on it since April it rains and reminds me I don't need to. Good thing I have another car to use as a test bed and to get my detailing fix from on a regular basis. If not I'd be like Klasse and have to do something, anything to it. Not sure what I did right compared to some others with less than acceptable results, but it's working for me.
Some more great info! I think I will test the hell out of this stuff...apply 2 coats (24hrs between coats) and let 'er buck. Especially over the winter. I'll wash it, of course, but with a no-heated garage, I'll have to wash it at a local wash and hopefully will not get too dirty when I drive a few blocks home. I do have a wood stove in the garage but I dont know if I trust it...could bevery scary if things go terribly wrong.
Cardaddy, glad you guys got the finish looking better but this post need to be forwarded to Bill @ Duragloss for sure. I'd love to hear what he has to say, others could benefit from this!
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What did you use for the 2-step buff?
I was told to use the mf appl side of the pad that came with the kit to apply the DG coating. Why did you use a suede cloth?
Well, with proper prep, the DGNCC is said to last up to 2 years! Its easy to apply and the initial gloss is insane! Even if you get high spots you can buff them on the spot or do what I do, wait till the next day when it cures!
I may have had to re-apply to keep the look I liked but I'm sure durability was still there!
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I have a very hard time believing that any car that was one-stepped with M101 would look very good after polishing. Either Duragloss's coating has some serious filling capabilities, or your standard of "looking insane" is not in the same ballpark as mine.
FWIW my car was fairly new when I got it and had minor swirls, so it didn't need a whole lot to make right. Other people have commented on how M101 is "LSP ready", so its surely not just mesaying this.
I wouldn't expect anyone to believe 100% of what anyone says about how great their car looks but I can honestly say that every metallic spec comes out in my paint and my car looks awesome, just sayin'.
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What you said makes no sense - unless FIAT paint is extremely hard. Even then I'm skeptical.
If you only had minor defects, why would you be using M101 to remove them?
The skill level of people on this site are all across the board, and a lot of these claims should be very carefully reviewed. I suspect that many people on this site do not even own the proper lights to check their finishes for haze and defects.
This isn't a situation of "believe," it's a story that just doesn't add up.