swanicyouth
New member
- Mar 3, 2011
- 9,388
- 0
What did i do!!!?? sanding accident
- Thread starter sushi
- Start date
Just02896
New member
- Nov 15, 2013
- 1,734
- 0
^^^rops:^^^
Bob
Well now, THAT is a damn cool blow up booth! Does it double as a bouncy house? Lol!
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Sorry to hear of your mishap with your brand new car...
I just read through the entire thread and maybe I missed it but when you were buffing you were seeing the color of the basecoat coming off and onto your buffing pad?
Because normally, because the topcoat is clear you would never see the color of the basecoat coming off the panel and onto our buffing pad unless you sanded and/or buffed through the clear layer of paint.
The clear layer is thin... very thin... to me this is the worst thing about purchasing a new car and that is car manufacturers, all of them, don't put enough clearcoat paint on their "vehicles", and it causes nothing but problems for the owners and for detailers.
In this article here I show pictures to give the average person an idea of how thin the factory clear layer of paint is on their pretty new car....
Clearcoats are Scratch-Sensitive
The factory sprayed clear layer of paint on most new cars averages around 2 mils. That's thinner than the average post-it note.
The next time you see a post-it note... feel it between your fingers... this is usually all it takes to drive home the point as to how thin the paint is on your beautiful, shiny car.
And for future reference.... MOST wetsanding is done at the body shop level on CUSTOM paint.
I explain that in this article...
Wetsanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint
For everyone reading this into the future, before wetsanding, join this forum, start a thread sharing what you're planning on doing and get some advice from our members.
That and use the least aggressive product to get the job done. If I'm going to sand factory paint I'm using 3M Trizact #3000 or #5000, not any companies #2000
I just read through the entire thread and maybe I missed it but when you were buffing you were seeing the color of the basecoat coming off and onto your buffing pad?
Because normally, because the topcoat is clear you would never see the color of the basecoat coming off the panel and onto our buffing pad unless you sanded and/or buffed through the clear layer of paint.
The clear layer is thin... very thin... to me this is the worst thing about purchasing a new car and that is car manufacturers, all of them, don't put enough clearcoat paint on their "vehicles", and it causes nothing but problems for the owners and for detailers.
In this article here I show pictures to give the average person an idea of how thin the factory clear layer of paint is on their pretty new car....
Clearcoats are Scratch-Sensitive
The factory sprayed clear layer of paint on most new cars averages around 2 mils. That's thinner than the average post-it note.
The next time you see a post-it note... feel it between your fingers... this is usually all it takes to drive home the point as to how thin the paint is on your beautiful, shiny car.
And for future reference.... MOST wetsanding is done at the body shop level on CUSTOM paint.
I explain that in this article...
Wetsanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint
For everyone reading this into the future, before wetsanding, join this forum, start a thread sharing what you're planning on doing and get some advice from our members.
That and use the least aggressive product to get the job done. If I'm going to sand factory paint I'm using 3M Trizact #3000 or #5000, not any companies #2000
WRAPT C5Z06
New member
- Nov 12, 2009
- 12,615
- 0
A VERY EXPERIENCED detailer can sand factory clear, but I wouldn't dare try it.
On your car, it *looks* like a combination of sanding/buffing went through the clear.
On your car, it *looks* like a combination of sanding/buffing went through the clear.
I agree with Mike! Much more clear to work with on re-paints.
conman1395
New member
- Nov 23, 2013
- 1,622
- 0
That's hilarious
- Thread starter
- #26
The clear coat was worn in spots I taped off with an orange PC pad. I detailed dozens of cars and never had that happen. The mobile body man quoted 250-350 for the entire door panel. It's the guy with the easel from the photo. If I can cover this up with moldings would this be preferable to a repaint?