First machine polish this weekend, few question!

MCruz

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Going for my first ever machine detail this weekend and here's my plan:

Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed3 in black mica (not sure if this paint is considered hard/soft/thin), daily driver.
Condition: Light to moderate swirls, with a few scratches
Machine: HF DA Polisher
Pads: 5" LC Flatpads - 3 white, 2 orange, 1 black
Products: Menzerna FG400, HD Polish and Megs ultimate liquid wax


1. Wash the car (with ONR or my new foam gun & chemical guys honeydew, haven't decided), pull it into the garage for drying
2. Clay the whole car
3. Tape all trim and grooves
4. Tape off a few 12x12 sections on the hood and do a test spot using the hd polish and white pad, wipe with ipa solution and check for adequate correction
5. If swirls remain, step up to fg400/white pad and finally fg400/Orange if I have to.
6. Compound or polish the rest hood, roof, hatch, sides and fenders
7. Follow up with polish if I had to compound (although I've read that fg 400 can finish last step ready)
8. Wipe car down with ipa solution
9. Wax and final wipe

I'm ready to dedicate 12 hours on Saturday, but I don't want to feel rushed. If it looks like I'm going to have compound and polish, I might wash/clay/compound on Saturday and cover it with some sheets in garage. Sunday, prep the compounded panels with ONR/ipa, polish and wax. Is splitting up my first detail into two days a good idea? I've read a bunch of threads saying that FG400 and a white pad can potentially finish last step ready, should I skip the test spot with the HD Polish/white pad and go straight for a test spot using that combo?

Going to post some photos of my paint when I get some proper lighting. To my uneducated eye, the swirls look light to moderate ( I have to move my head around to catch them in the sunlight, but they're definitely there). I'm wondering if anyone has photos of what someone would consider light/moderate swirls?

Thanks for your time! :props:
 
I'd suggest you add an iron decontamination step after washing the car.
 
Hmm I didn't know about iron decontamination, I'll have do a little research it.
 
I have a 2012 Speed, same color. I also have a paint thickness guage and can tell you that car has the thinest factory paint I have ever seen on a new car. 80 microns compared to 120-140 on most cars. Damages very easy.
 
As for Decon, on that color its not completely needed since your claying it. If it was white or silver its a must.
 
Regardless of color, I would definitely do the IronX treatment particularly for a first time "all in" detail.

You'll be surprised at the contaminants that show themselves doing this step.

Good luck and post some pics! :dblthumb2:
 
Why not try HD Polish with a white pad 1st....you might be surprised
 
Sounds like a good plan but wouldn't bother covering it with a sheet overnight. I'd be worried about adding scratches doing that. If you end up compounding and polishing I would plan 2 days.
 
Why not try HD Polish with a white pad 1st....you might be surprised

Yeah I think I'll do that especially considering how thin paint is. Is it thin AND soft?

If you guys think using decon is necessary I'll order it.
 
You're working on a black car, so you will see everything. With that said, make sure you're using high quality MF towels, or they will scratch the paint as you wipe off the polish(especially if it's soft paint). Also, what % IPA are you using? IPA can be grabby and scratch the surface as you wipe off. CarPro Eraser can be a better option.
 
You're working on a black car, so you will see everything. With that said, make sure you're using high quality MF towels, or they will scratch the paint as you wipe off the polish(especially if it's soft paint). Also, what % IPA are you using? IPA can be grabby and scratch the surface as you wipe off. CarPro Eraser can be a better option.

If I'm understanding correctly, you're recommending decon, especially on black paint?

I'm using the edgless blue mf towels from the rag company, which i believe are considered high quality. I have two unopened specifically for the polishing step. I haven't purchased the IPA yet. I'll be following this guide for diluting the ipa http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
 
If I'm understanding correctly, you're recommending decon?

I'm using the edgless blue mf towels from the rag company. I haven't purchased the IPA yet.
My reply wasn't inferring decon. ;) However, I'll chime in. Decon(IronX) definitely works as it's supposed to, but I don't think it's *needed* prior to polishing. Clay for sure.

Make it easier and pick up some CarPro Eraser in place of IPA. It has more lubricity when wiping off, so you're lessening your chance of scratching the paint. Removes polishing oils very well, too. It's ready to use.
 
My reply wasn't inferring decon. ;) However, I'll chime in. Decon(IronX) definitely works as it's supposed to, but I don't think it's *needed* prior to polishing. Clay for sure.

Make it easier and pick up some CarPro Eraser in place of IPA. It has more lubricity when wiping off, so you're lessening your chance of scratching the paint. Removes polishing oils very well, too. It's ready to use.

Agree, before IronX paint polished just fine using only clay first.

Sent from my Alien Ship
 
Ordered some Eraser, thanks guys.

In the event that the HD polish/white pad doesn't cut it (lol) and I decide to split the process into two days, what's the recommended way to clean the surface contaminants from the panel on day two? The car will be garaged.
 
Ordered some Eraser, thanks guys.

In the event that the HD polish/white pad doesn't cut it (lol) and I decide to split the process into two days, what's the recommended way to clean the surface contaminants from the panel on day two? The car will be garaged.

There shouldn't be anything on it if it's garages.

A quick wipe with a damp microfiber if anything
 
Thank you. Does 4 or 5 section passes at speed 5 sound right for the HF polisher, hd polish and a white flat pad?
 
If the HD Polish/white pad isn't enough try it with an orange pad before jumping to the 400. HD Polish can have some decent cut to it with the right pad. I've had good success using it with an orange B&S pad to remove wash induced marring on hard VW paint. Also consider just doing spot compounding on the deeper scratches rather than the entire car if the HD Polish takes care of the lighter scratches.

If HD Polish is your last step before applying LSP you really don't need to use IPA--an ONR wash would be fine. HD Polish doesn't have the heavy oils like some polishes.
 
Thank you. Does 4 or 5 section passes at speed 5 sound right for the HF polisher, hd polish and a white flat pad?
Start with speed 5. If rotation isn't up to your liking, bump up to speed 6. Definitely apply some pressure, but not enough to stall the backing plate. 4 section passes is usually enough with HD Polish(good stuff). Start with 4-5 drops of polish, then use 3 thereafter. Clean pad often.

For the post above, I would think an Eraser wipe down would be easier than an ONR wash prior to LSP. Also, don't forget to wipe down your test spots with Eraser to see the true correction you're getting.
 
Start with 4-5 drops of polish, then use 3 thereafter. Clean pad often. QUOTE]

Good point!! Forgot that with HD Polish less is more. Don't prime the pad in the conventional sense by covering the entire pad with polish then adding drops. And make the drops pea sized not dime sized.

When I mentioned ONR wash didn't mean a full wash--I just wipe the car down with a an ONR dampened MF (rinsed often in the ONR solution) and have no trouble with LSPs bonding.
 
Good point!! Forgot that with HD Polish less is more. Don't prime the pad in the conventional sense by covering the entire pad with polish then adding drops. And make the drops pea sized not dime sized.
Agreed!



When I mentioned ONR wash didn't mean a full wash--I just wipe the car down with a an ONR dampened MF (rinsed often in the ONR solution) and have no trouble with LSPs bonding.
:dblthumb2:

Either way is good.
 
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