Polishing CQUK

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Excessive Detail

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I was wondering if anyone has experimented with polishing CQUK or any similar coating to remove minor imperfections, light marring or swirling, or water spots? I have used Carpro Spotless with great success to remove water spots from CQUK, but there are still a few that I feel only polishing will remove in addition to some light swirling.. Cory with Carpro told me that I would be able to do this with a light polish and pad combo, for instance Blue pad and Carpro Reflect, he also mentioned that it would refine the coating, enhancing it.. Now I'm not trying to question Cory, he has been a great help in advising me on products and techniques, A+ customer service, and I haven't been disappointed. I just wanted to see if anyone had given this idea a try..
 
Any polish that can abrade paint will remove the coating. That's why that whole coatings "longevity" issue is a moot point. You are very likely to abrade it off long before it's expiration date. Frankly in that regard, you are no better off in the longevity department with a coating than with a super long-lasting sealant or wax because the coating will scratch and get swirls in it and need fixing too. Its inevitable because it is after all... the sacrificial barrier.

Coatings in my view only excel in one area (and its a very important one)...ease of washing and drying afterwards (which helps prevent man made swirls)...and for that alone they are well worth it...but other than that...NO.

What will work is DG squeaky clean OR DP coating prep polish... with a foam finishing pad...there are no abrasives, but they will spruce up the coating big time without hurting it.
 
silverfox said:
Any polish that can abrade paint will remove the coating. That's why that whole coatings "longevity" issue is a moot point. You are very likely to abrade it off long before it's expiration date. Frankly in that regard, you are no better off in the longevity department with a coating than with a super long-lasting sealant or wax because the coating will scratch and get swirls in it and need fixing too. Its inevitable because it is after all... the sacrificial barrier.

Coatings in my view only excel in one area (and its a very important one)...ease of washing and drying afterwards (which helps prevent man made swirls)...and for that alone they are well worth it...but other than that...NO.What about the person that only washes once every month or two or three..a coating will protect the paint and like you said, be easier to wash and dry.

What will work is DG squeaky clean OR DP coating prep polish... with a foam finishing pad...there are no abrasives, but they will spruce up the coating big time without hurting it.
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:props:
 
I have (as suggested) and no issues. Don't forget light polish. Corey knows his stuff, trust me!
 
Tried menzerna 4000 on a blue pad on rupes 15 at speed 3 and it stripped it, or so I believe anyway.
 
How would one know if they removed the coating? also do you just polish it off as one would normally polish? I applied mine in May and will probably want to remove it come spring and the swirls and water spots stink. also if we have another winter like last I will want a "fresh start"
 
As a general point, not all coatings can be removed by polishing. We certainly have one which we recommend people do not attempt to remove. Such is the bonding, you would almost certainly damage the underlying paint when attempting to remove it. This technology is not unique to us so, whilst I cannot tell you which other products use it, it is worth being careful with coatings because some really do not react well to heavy polishing.
 
BlackRam said:
How would one know if they removed the coating? also do you just polish it off as one would normally polish? I applied mine in May and will probably want to remove it come spring and the swirls and water spots stink. also if we have another winter like last I will want a "fresh start"
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Polish half off the panel then pour water on both sides. Look at the hydrophobic properties.
 
Something else to keep in mind is the fact that you're polishing off silica - not something you would want to be breathing.
 
af90 said:
Polish half off the panel then pour water on both sides. Look at the hydrophobic properties.
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You will need and Eraser or IPA wipedown after polishing

The residual oils in the polish will make the surface hydrophobic
 
a few months back... I had an incident with my sister-in-law, dirty car, and a towel I normally use for wheels. She thought she was helping.:bash:

I used Reflect with a black pad and was able to remove the fine scratches with ease. I was ready to re-coat my hood but after several heavy wipe down with Eraser....I noticed the surface was still slick to the touch. The hydrophobic properties were the same as before.
 
psnt1ol said:
a few months back... I had an incident with my sister-in-law, dirty car, and a towel I normally use for wheels. She thought she was helping.:bash:

I used Reflect with a black pad and was able to remove the fine scratches with ease. I was ready to re-coat my hood but after several heavy wipe down with Eraser....I noticed the surface was still slick to the touch. The hydrophobic w were the same as before.
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Good to know. Thank you
 
PiPUK said:
As a general point, not all coatings can be removed by polishing. We certainly have one which we recommend people do not attempt to remove. Such is the bonding, you would almost certainly damage the underlying paint when attempting to remove it. This technology is not unique to us so, whilst I cannot tell you which other products use it, it is worth being careful with coatings because some really do not react well to heavy polishing.
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Interesting. Can you explain more details as to what is happening?
 
The Critic said:
Interesting. Can you explain more details as to what is happening?
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We have come to believe that the problem is that the bond to the paint is just so strong that there is no reasonable way of breaking it. Also, the coating can be harder than the paint and that 'scratch resistance' which we like actually means that a polish/compound has less effect on the coating than the paint. So, as you polish it, it is a bit of a lottery as to where you first breach the coating. once you do, you are going to start eating through the paint quickly whilst the coating in the surrounding area is still resisting. Our experience has been that this can mean you start getting a rather rippled, orange peel type effect.

We have yet to explore this in great depth and this may be a result of having used heavy compounds and it may not be the same with something light (though, you would need to do a heck of a lot of work, in this case).

This is all something of an educated guess as it is something we have only just discovered. It is also plausible that the solvents (which are pretty potent) have modified the clearcoat such that, once you remove the coating, what remains is different from what it began. Ultimately I just wonder how much testing has been done with coatings and attempts to remove fully - given that some are intended as permanent, it would not be surprising to find that limited amounts of work will have been done to try to remove said coating.
 
PiPUK said:
We have come to believe that the problem is that the bond to the paint is just so strong that there is no reasonable way of breaking it. Also, the coating can be harder than the paint and that 'scratch resistance' which we like actually means that a polish/compound has less effect on the coating than the paint. So, as you polish it, it is a bit of a lottery as to where you first breach the coating. once you do, you are going to start eating through the paint quickly whilst the coating in the surrounding area is still resisting. Our experience has been that this can mean you start getting a rather rippled, orange peel type effect.

We have yet to explore this in great depth and this may be a result of having used heavy compounds and it may not be the same with something light (though, you would need to do a heck of a lot of work, in this case).

This is all something of an educated guess as it is something we have only just discovered. It is also plausible that the solvents (which are pretty potent) have modified the clearcoat such that, once you remove the coating, what remains is different from what it began. Ultimately I just wonder how much testing has been done with coatings and attempts to remove fully - given that some are intended as permanent, it would not be surprising to find that limited amounts of work will have been done to try to remove said coating.
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Thanks for the explanation.
 
Anybody thing maybe doing a light polish by hand would be a better option in this situation than machine polish.
 
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