I'm not a fan of rinseless washing, BUT....

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WRAPT C5Z06

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I've switched from a traditional soap to a rinseless soap for the washing part. I now use Meguiars D114. At 1:256 combined with a Griots Wash pad, this combo EASILY has the most lubricity of any soap I've ever used. For stronger cleaning ability, you can use 1:128.

My process for washing the paint is:

Foam cannon with AutoFinesse Avalanche
Rinse
1-bucket + Grit Guard + Meguiars D114
Rinse
 
IMHO:

Meguiar's has, once again, created a product that clearly communicates its value when compared to relative-product
offerings of their competition.


Bob
 
ZL1 Mark said:
I've switched from a traditional soap to a rinseless soap for the washing part. I now use Meguiars D114. At 1:256 combined with a Griots Wash pad, this combo EASILY has the most lubricity of any soap I've ever used. For stronger cleaning ability, you can use 1:128.

My process for washing the paint is:

Foam cannon with AutoFinesse Avalanche
Rinse
1-bucket + Grit Guard + Meguiars D114
Rinse
Click to expand...

Friend of mine uses a similar method. Seems to work well, but he has a white truck, so it is difficult to tell if there is any damage being caused (Not sure why there would be)

FUNX725 said:
IMHO:
Meguiar's has, once again, created a product that clearly communicates its value when compared to relative-product
offerings of their competition.
Click to expand...

Agreed. It is my go to rinseless at this point. I've all but thrown out my other rinseless products.
 
ZL1 Mark said:
I've switched from a traditional soap to a rinseless soap for the washing part. I now use Meguiars D114. At 1:256 combined with a Griots Wash pad, this combo EASILY has the most lubricity of any soap I've ever used. For stronger cleaning ability, you can use 1:128.

My process for washing the paint is:

Foam cannon with AutoFinesse Avalanche
Rinse
1-bucket + Grit Guard + Meguiars D114
Rinse
Click to expand...

You don't use the garry dean method? IMO, much better than traditional rinseless
 
The GD method is the way to go, the only way to do rinseless in my opinion. Yeah, you use more towels but it is faster and safer.
 
I use the same method only in winter. D114 and D115 are without equal in my opinion. A variation of that which works the rest of the year is...presoak with D115, then proceed with D114 with either bucket method or GD method. It is actually better than a traditional wash chemically speaking. And D114 is perfect for coatings as it leaves nothing behind but slickness. Can even strip wax at high concentration.
 
Mark, pretty much a ditto here, except I'm unsold on the pre-foaming step.

Indoors in winter if the car is particularly nasty I pre-soak with a houseplant sprayer and D114 at 1:32 or 1:64 then follow with 1:128 or 1:256 2BM. Again, Proline grout sponges (two of them, one soaking while the other is in use) on nasty salt-encrusted cars, or MM IncrediPads on normal dirt.

I guess I'll try foaming outdoors again if it ever warms up here. :)

FWIW I've dedicated what's left of my gallon of Other No Rinse as a windshield washer fluid adjunct at about 1:64.
 
D114 sounds interesting...has anyone used it as a clay lube as of yet? If so, what dilution did you use?
 
RavenHawk said:
D114 sounds interesting...has anyone used it as a clay lube as of yet? If so, what dilution did you use?
Click to expand...

I put an ounce in a 32oz bottle. Seems to do ok as a clay lube. 114 is so reasonable I'm liberal with it
 
ZL1 Mark said:
EASILY has the most lubricity of any soap I've ever used. For stronger cleaning ability, you can use 1:128.

My process for washing the paint is:

Foam cannon with AutoFinesse Avalanche
Rinse
1-bucket + Grit Guard + Meguiars D114
Rinse
Click to expand...

Just about perfect product ratio and process! Only thing that can improve is adding a second grit guard. Some folks, including myself; don't like using the "10-14 towel method".
 
Foam,rinse,pump spray pre soak,rinseless wash gd method, with d114,onrww,or duragloss rinseless. That's the only way I wash now
 
Mark! How's avalanche as a pre wash?

(It's Aj Villanueva)
 
frankprozzoly said:
I put an ounce in a 32oz bottle. Seems to do ok as a clay lube. 114 is so reasonable I'm liberal with it
Click to expand...

WAY too much D114 for clay lube. 64:1 is enough to strip an LSP according to Michael Stoops.

I have used it as a clay lube at 128:1 and felt it was a bit too slick.
 
D114 is not meant to be used as a clay lube or waterless wash, so I wouldn't use it either way.
 
silverfox said:
I use the same method only in winter. D114 and D115 are without equal in my opinion. A variation of that which works the rest of the year is...presoak with D115, then proceed with D114 with either bucket method or GD method. It is actually better than a traditional wash chemically speaking. And D114 is perfect for coatings as it leaves nothing behind but slickness. Can even strip wax at high concentration.
Click to expand...
I'm courious why do you use D 115 first? Since D 114 is just a cleaning soap wouldn't you use that first and save the wash and wax for the second step?
 
SonOfOC said:
Just about perfect product ratio and process! Only thing that can improve is adding a second grit guard. Some folks, including myself; don't like using the "10-14 towel method".
Click to expand...

10-14 seems like quite a lot. But I assume that's towel dependent. Using a heavier 700gsm or so waterless wash towel with long nap on both sides I can usually get away with 4-6 depending on how dirty it is.

The foam pre-soak isn't a bad idea except in the summer here when it's too hot and can easily dry out before finishing a panel. In those times I'll let the towel stay soaked without ringing it out as much and for the wipe down step I'll use an atomizer with UWW to provide more lubrication.
 
Tac07 said:
Mark! How's avalanche as a pre wash?

(It's Aj Villanueva)
Click to expand...


AJ! It's pretty good. Definitely not a touchless wash, but it removes enough to make me feel more comfortable with the second step of washing.
 
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