Iron X

[Ryan509]

i did VW wheels heavily caked with brake dust last week, on the wheels i used about 4 squirts per wheel... i did my 06 impala today and i have half of the small bottle left....

 

[ihaveacamaro]

Just posting my observation here - a full liter for any car seems like an awful lot to me, at least IME, although the OP did state it was used on wheels too.

Anyway, I'm wondering if I'm not using enough now - I get at least 3 - 4 applications out of a liter.

Interesting thread...

I do as well. Using 1 liter or even 1/2 a liter for one car for me seems pretty excessive.

I coat the entire car in a mist, but still get plenty of applications out of the 1 liter bottle.

 

[kecko]

If you're using less and that works for you thats great. I use quite a bit and it doesn't hurt to do so since its PH safe for car paint. I live next to Railroad tracks so I notice quite a bit of iron, even after the first application so maybe that is why I need more than others. Besides wheels I also get up in wheel wells and hit a few other things most people might not do. I also do not want to chance it drying out on the car, which is also a reason I use more. I try to hit the entire car at one time rather than one panel at a time.

And for the person saying my information is incorrect. As I said I have used both products and they pretty much work identically. You can say they dont but I have used both for years. Its not like I am getting paid to advertise so quit trying to throw daggers. Even using the TRIX I had to use light agitating to get the sap and tar off. Try using a dry sponge on dried up tar and see where that gets you so it had nothing to do with using a sponge. I use a sponge to agitate Iron X anyway, regardless of sap or tar. It even says on the directions to do so on stubborn areas. Trix dissolves about 90% of tar and sap but still some remained. What I did notice was that it didnt break down the iron as well as Iron X did. Soo in my time using both I would prefer to use Iron X over Trix because there are other products dedicated for tar and sap available.

 

[2011 Kona Blue]

Is it bad to do a few panels at s time. Spray iron x on a few panels, let sit for 5 minutes then hose off. Go to next few panels.

 

[builthatch]

i am glad you like this item, but i'm responding to the must have part of the first post. i have never found a reason to buy this sort of stuff for use on my personal vehicles. i think if i was a pro or doing other people's vehicles anymore, maybe i'd look into something like this for an initial decon but to use it on a consistent basis on personal vehicles is interesting. if the car was clayed and corrected...then protected, esp. with coating, i don't know how many times down the line i'd ever even need to use something like this. i can't think of a time with my own cars where the end result of any process has disappointed me and i've been like "damn, i wish i had the color changing decon chemicals."

along the lines of color changing stuff (though a different product/application), i remember when the Sonax wheel cleaner came out and i got some because people were hot for it. i never even finished the first bottle because i found that the Power Clean (at varying solution strengths) and regular wash techniques i've used for years worked wonderfully and at a dramatic cost savings vs. the fancy stuff.

 

[kecko]

i am glad you like this item, but i'm responding to the must have part of the first post. i have never found a reason to buy this sort of stuff for use on my personal vehicles. i think if i was a pro or doing other people's vehicles anymore, maybe i'd look into something like this for an initial decon but to use it on a consistent basis on personal vehicles is interesting. if the car was clayed and corrected...then protected, esp. with coating, i don't know how many times down the line i'd ever even need to use something like this. i can't think of a time with my own cars where the end result of any process has disappointed me and i've been like "damn, i wish i had the color changing decon chemicals."

along the lines of color changing stuff (though a different product/application), i remember when the Sonax wheel cleaner came out and i got some because people were hot for it. i never even finished the first bottle because i found that the Power Clean (at varying solution strengths) and regular wash techniques i've used for years worked wonderfully and at a dramatic cost savings vs. the fancy stuff.

I just looked at my first post and no where did I say its a must have. I said dont underestimate what it can do for you and tried to explain the advantages. If you dont think you have a use for it, thats fine. Some vehicles are more prone to iron and industrial fallout than others. The fact is iron gets on every vehicle, some more than others and once its on your vehicle it continues to grow into the layers of your paint. Claying will remove most of whats there but if its deep into your paint clay cant get all of it. Iron X or Trix (whichever you decide to use) will remove all aspects of the iron, including whats embedded.

I need to use it because of my location near tracks and heavy industry. It works. I also use it because its a major time saver. My mindset is that its easier to use this and get as much contamination off before claying so I dont have to rub on my paint so hard killing my arms.

Like I said I dont get paid to advertise for CarPro so if you dont want to use it I respect that and dont want people to think its a must have item. Its another product that can help the process.

 

[kecko]

Is it bad to do a few panels at s time. Spray iron x on a few panels, let sit for 5 minutes then hose off. Go to next few panels.

That may be a better way of doing it than the way I do it because you can concentrate on one panel at a time and not use so much. I like to hit my whole car with it real good all at once and then use my power washer so its easier for me that way.

Thats my method but again its not the only method. For the most part the only caveat is to not allow it to dry and I advise anyone to read the product instructions first. How much you use and which method you spray it on is up to you. I also use a microfiber sponge to lightly agitate stubborn areas but that is also not needed either. Its just how I go about using the product.

 

[2011 Kona Blue]

That may be a better way of doing it than the way I do it because you can concentrate on one panel at a time and not use so much. I like to hit my whole car with it real good all at once and then use my power washer so its easier for me that way.

Thats my method but again its not the only method. For the most part the only caveat is to not allow it to dry and I advise anyone to read the product instructions first. How much you use and which method you spray it on is up to you. I also use a microfiber sponge to lightly agitate stubborn areas but that is also not needed either. Its just how I go about using the product.

That's interesting about the product. By the time one sprays the entire car down with it and let sit, certain parts of the car have the product on it far longer than 5 minutes.

I would think spraying a few panels at a time would be a better option. Certainly it would take a little longer but that way the product is not on too long and dry on. I have never used iron x and never heard about it until I came on here. Seems to be a very popular product with members on this site.

My car is 4 1/2 years old and have been clayed several times plus waxed regularly. I would imagine my car has iron embedded out the a$$

 

[builthatch]

I just looked at my first post and no where did I say its a must have. I said dont underestimate what it can do for you and tried to explain the advantages. If you dont think you have a use for it, thats fine. Some vehicles are more prone to iron and industrial fallout than others. The fact is iron gets on every vehicle, some more than others and once its on your vehicle it continues to grow into the layers of your paint. Claying will remove most of whats there but if its deep into your paint clay cant get all of it. Iron X or Trix (whichever you decide to use) will remove all aspects of the iron, including whats embedded.

I need to use it because of my location near tracks and heavy industry. It works. I also use it because its a major time saver. My mindset is that its easier to use this and get as much contamination off before claying so I dont have to rub on my paint so hard killing my arms.

Like I said I dont get paid to advertise for CarPro so if you dont want to use it I respect that and dont want people to think its a must have item. Its another product that can help the process.

i was responding to

Don't not have this in your arsenal

which is another way of saying "must have", but with double negatives in the sentence haha.

sounds like it works very well for you. i'm glad i'm not in a situation where i'd have to use such an expensive product often to clean my personal vehicles, i guess that's my main point. you should look into a legit coating if you don't have one, which will help fight contamination in a major way and cut down on your need to use this product as much.

 

[kecko]

My car is a hatch, not a SUV or mid size sedan so I can get it sprayed down very quickly. When I do my wife's SUV though my approach is by doing one side at a time. I also don't use the supplied spray bottle. I have a Kwazar spray bottle which helps speed things up. Then I take my microfiber sponge and lightly agitate any spots where there is allot of stuff. It takes me less than 5 minutes to do this. Then I use my foam cannon and wash the car down. It's about a 10 minute process for the body of the car. I then goto other areas like wheels and around fender wells getting up in crevices really good.

I prefer Iron X as it takes care of everything on my car. However as RRM stated there is also TRIX which is also made by CarPro. It removes sap and tar in addition to iron and it does a good job. I just found that Iron X works better for my needs and seemed to work better than the Trix. I also found that the Iron X soap didn't work all that great either. That was just my experience though and everyone's is different so I won't debate the two products based on personal experience. They are equally as good IMO but I do prefer one over the other.

You'll never know how bad your car is until you try it but you said you have clayed so it's likely not quite as bad as you think.

 

[kecko]

i was responding to



which is another way of saying "must have", but with double negatives in the sentence haha.

sounds like it works very well for you. i'm glad i'm not in a situation where i'd have to use such an expensive product often to clean my personal vehicles, i guess that's my main point. you should look into a legit coating if you don't have one, which will help fight contamination in a major way and cut down on your need to use this product as much.

I see what you're saying. That was kind of a infomercial way of endorsing the product but hey I'm sorry I really like this stuff. I sincerely hope people aren't that easily swayed and do proper research regardless of the language I used in my post. I have no interest in coating at this time but I could be open to it later, once I learn how to properly polish my car. I do use sealants on my car though. I know iron can still attach itself to a sealed car but what about a coated car? I wouldn't know since I've never had the opportunity to use it. I'm also open to the fact that once I get my polishing technique under my belt than maybe I won't need to use Iron X as much because I will have a better skill set. I'm sure that's possible, right?

As far as how much Iron X I use that shouldn't be an issue. Everyone is different and use varying amounts of their products. Actually I hardly ever finish a liter bottle. There is always some leftover. Regarding price, that is only a issue if it's breaking the bank, which it's not. Everyone has products they like and this is mine. I am sure you have your go to products that you enjoy using. I only use Iron X in spring after all the snow and salt melts and once in late fall when I'm about to protect my car for winter. It's not a weekly or monthly thing.

Thanks for clarifying what you meant and again not my intention to make people feel they absolutely need to have this. It's a detailing aid that will decontaminate but also speed up the process if used prior to claying. The only thing people can do is try it out and decide if it does something for them.