Flex PE14-2-150 Shocking

If you are use to the power and super fast cutting of a rotary I fear you might be disappointed even with the latest tech DA's. If you don't mind slower correction and less power then you are spoilt for choice. Not every correction needs a rotary and theres many instances where a DA just won't cut it either. A DA and a Rotary compliment each other nicely and after having bought the PE-14, I had no idea I needed it that much. I wish I bought one sooner as it would have made my life much easier on quite a few details.
 
Pleasure, the wierd thing for me is seeing the test spot/fender today and can't help but think the rotary with a compound gave an absolutely stunning finish as if it has been jeweled. Am I imagining or does the PE-14 finish better too? I need to go over the same spot with a black pad and SF4000 on speed 1 again and see what it does.

Report back when you do!
 
This is quickly becoming my favorite machine. Try Jeweling with gold Kompressor pads and Menzerna 4500.
 
Report back when you do!

Ok done. If you recall from the original post I used M105 with an LC Orange flat light cutting pad on speed 1 and got fantastic correction and finish. I followed it up on the test fender with M205 and a 5.5" White flat polishing pad as well as another panel and the results blew me away yet again. Speed 1 and an ultra finishing polish left the panel with superb gloss, the other panel which was not corrected with M105 had the swirls corrected with M205 and a white polishing pad! The PE-14 can correct with mild combos, combos where I could not get real correction from using a DA eat through defects with the PE-14. I then went over everything with a Black Hex finishing pad and SF4000 which didn't seem to add anything over the M205 and white pad as far as gloss goes but I must say, in my eyes the PE-14 seems to leave a better finish than any DA. This is the part thats baffling me, hoping Mike Phillip's or someone else can chime in as to why the results from a finishing perspective seems better with a rotary, the paints crisper,sharper with more clarity. I hope this helped.
 
Just an update, full paint correction on a Range Rover Evoque took less than half the time it normally takes me with my 3401. This is hands down the best polisher I have ever used!
 
I have had the PE14-2 on my list for a while now to pick up. Something to replace my aging Makita.

I do however have the FLEX L3403 VRG Lightweight Rotary and it is an awesome machine as well.
 
I used speed 1!!! I am absolutely gobsmacked at the correction ability at speed 1! I initially thought I'd just spread the polish on 1 and then bump up to 3, but then thought to myself out of curiosity to just work the polish in at 1 and wipe off. If the swirls were still there bump up to 3, but after the wipedown I was floored, the finish was perfect!

Then I looked at the specs, the 3401 at speed 6 spins at 480rpm, the PE14 at speed 1 spins at 600rpm!

Also, its way quieter, smoother and powerful than any polisher I have ever used, it's ridiculous how easily this thing corrects paint! No fancy pads or compounds or technique. Makes me think we have regressed with DA's as this makes my 3401 and BigFoot look like one of those cheapy orbital wax spreaders in comparison. I can't believe I waited this long to buy this phenomenal piece of detailing treasure!

We all chasing faster correction through long throws,thinner pads and so forth when the answer all along was PE-14!
I don't mean this as a smart ass comment. Great job. Really, because I feel like what you did was a "test spot" but with the speed of the machine. I've had to train a few people in DA polishing (my boss included - that's how I got to be in charge of paint correction) and once they learn how to hold a polisher they seem to assume that they should just run a polisher however fast they think correlates with the level of correction.

I honestly can't think of anything detailing-wise that I want to do more than learn the rotary next.
 
Ok done. If you recall from the original post I used M105 with an LC Orange flat light cutting pad on speed 1 and got fantastic correction and finish. I followed it up on the test fender with M205 and a 5.5" White flat polishing pad as well as another panel and the results blew me away yet again. Speed 1 and an ultra finishing polish left the panel with superb gloss, the other panel which was not corrected with M105 had the swirls corrected with M205 and a white polishing pad! The PE-14 can correct with mild combos, combos where I could not get real correction from using a DA eat through defects with the PE-14. I then went over everything with a Black Hex finishing pad and SF4000 which didn't seem to add anything over the M205 and white pad as far as gloss goes but I must say, in my eyes the PE-14 seems to leave a better finish than any DA. This is the part thats baffling me, hoping Mike Phillip's or someone else can chime in as to why the results from a finishing perspective seems better with a rotary, the paints crisper,sharper with more clarity. I hope this helped.

Great! Thanks for the feed back. In the 90's I'd often use the rotary for correction (Megs M02, or M01), and swirl removal (M09), then apply M80 Speed Glaze with the 6" Black & Decker traditional orbital polisher.

I've seen posts where guys seem to have maxed out their r/o machines. They'll lament the cutting ability, they'll blow up pads, etc. What they might really need is to take Mike's class, and get a firm understand of proper rotary usage. Then get to practicing.

I love my r/o machines, but I really miss the rotary. The PE14-2 is the perfect fit for me, and I'll probably pick one up for Christmas. I like how Mike Phillips will cut with the rotary, then finish with the d/a in the interest of avoiding holograms.

He had an excellent video demonstrating how he jewels with the rotary as well. If you haven't seen it, check it out!

I think we're going to see somewhat of a resurgence of the rotary. As machine, abrasive, and pad technology increases, I can only imagine that the rotary will benefit.

I'd be interested in a rotary that operated like the drive wheels on a car. It could be engaged (slight pressure) to maintain rotation, but free spin once the speed was achieved. Maybe have the trigger work like the gas pedal, and use the dial to set the max speed? I don't know, but the general concept has crossed my mind over the years.
 
I'd be interested in a rotary that operated like the drive wheels on a car. It could be engaged (slight pressure) to maintain rotation, but free spin once the speed was achieved. Maybe have the trigger work like the gas pedal, and use the dial to set the max speed? I don't know, but the general concept has crossed my mind over the years.



Isn't that called a soft start trigger?
 
I'd be interested in a rotary that operated like the drive wheels on a car. It could be engaged (slight pressure) to maintain rotation, but free spin once the speed was achieved. Maybe have the trigger work like the gas pedal, and use the dial to set the max speed? I don't know, but the general concept has crossed my mind over the years.Isn't that called a soft start trigger

The Dewalt already has the "gas pedal/max speed function". I don't think I could buff with out it. Wouldn't the resistance from a free spin cause it to stop? Friction is how buffers buff. Maybe I misunderstood. Can't you hold the Flex trigger at half speed and get half speed? My 3401 does if I remember correctly.
 
Ok done. If you recall from the original post I used M105 with an LC Orange flat light cutting pad on speed 1 and got fantastic correction and finish. I followed it up on the test fender with M205 and a 5.5" White flat polishing pad as well as another panel and the results blew me away yet again. Speed 1 and an ultra finishing polish left the panel with superb gloss, the other panel which was not corrected with M105 had the swirls corrected with M205 and a white polishing pad! The PE-14 can correct with mild combos, combos where I could not get real correction from using a DA eat through defects with the PE-14. I then went over everything with a Black Hex finishing pad and SF4000 which didn't seem to add anything over the M205 and white pad as far as gloss goes but I must say, in my eyes the PE-14 seems to leave a better finish than any DA. This is the part thats baffling me, hoping Mike Phillip's or someone else can chime in as to why the results from a finishing perspective seems better with a rotary, the paints crisper,sharper with more clarity. I hope this helped.

What kind of car was this? I agree with getting a better finish with a rotary. I haven't really spent much time working with the G21 to see what kind of finish I can get with that.
 
I'd be interested in a rotary that operated like the drive wheels on a car. It could be engaged (slight pressure) to maintain rotation, but free spin once the speed was achieved. Maybe have the trigger work like the gas pedal, and use the dial to set the max speed? I don't know, but the general concept has crossed my mind over the years.



Isn't that called a soft start trigger?

I'm not sure exactly.

My soft start on my Duetto is on/off, where on my 3401, you can vary the amount.
 
The Dewalt already has the "gas pedal/max speed function". I don't think I could buff with out it. Wouldn't the resistance from a free spin cause it to stop? Friction is how buffers buff. Maybe I misunderstood. Can't you hold the Flex trigger at half speed and get half speed? My 3401 does if I remember correctly.

I think I'm thinking of something like the cruise control on the Megs g110v2, but on a rotary.

I think what I'm think of isn't possible.

Free spindle rotary?

I don't know. I have the idea, can't make the words.
 
Hrm..Come on man try! Like the trigger lock on the side?

Imagine a free spindle r/o that would engage a drive mechanism after pad resistance was detected. Apply the same tech to a rotary - or a zero offset like Kevin Brown calls it!
 
Imagine a free spindle r/o that would engage a drive mechanism after pad resistance was detected. Apply the same tech to a rotary - or a zero offset like Kevin Brown calls it!

Interesting. Sort of like a limited slip differential? That would take a little engineering but I bet it could be done.
 
Imagine a free spindle r/o that would engage a drive mechanism after pad resistance was detected. Apply the same tech to a rotary - or a zero offset like Kevin Brown calls it!
Interesting. Sort of like a limited slip differential? That would take a little engineering but I bet it could be done.
Perhaps a design variation on the sprag clutch?


Bob
 
Perhaps a design variation on the sprag clutch?


Bob
I think a sprag clutch has to spin in the opposite direction in order for the clutch to engage, and then wouldn't force rotation unless maybe it bounced it forward. Doesn't a free spinning da spin both directions?
 
What kind of car was this? I agree with getting a better finish with a rotary. I haven't really spent much time working with the G21 to see what kind of finish I can get with that.

Nissan 4x4, have since done a Range Rover Evoque, Isuzu 4x4, Black Golf 7 GTi Oettinger with the PE-14 and the finish has been gorgeous. I was always under the impression Rotary for cutting and DA for finishing but my experiences thus far has been rotary for cutting and finishing. I still haven't experienced holograms, looking at the finished product under LED lighting and sunlight.

If there's anyone else out there that finishes and jewels with a rotary, chime in as I have been a DA fanboy up until a short few days ago where the PE-14 has converted me.
 
I think a sprag clutch has to spin in the opposite direction in order for the clutch to engage, and then wouldn't force rotation unless maybe it bounced it forward. Doesn't a free spinning da spin both directions?
While being powered; or, meeting resistance?


Bob
 
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