Compounding help?

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willowcat11

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Will be taking advantage of the warmer weather this weekend. I am going to be using Ultimate Compound on my CRV with a DA. This is actually only my second time using the DA, and I am wondering what you guys do to get the real tight areas up against trim, and all other areas.

Do you end up just applying it by hand, or use a different tool?


Thanks all!


Ray
 
Cover up the trim with an automotive masking tape. I use a Flex PE8 or Griot's Garage 6 inch polisher (with a 3 inch backing plate) for difficult to reach spots. Anything else I polish by hand.
 
Taping off helps, but those tight areas can only really be done by either investing in a 3" backing plate & pads or old school, by hand.
 
Mask off, and depending what da you have.

You use a 3 inch back plate with a smaller pad to get in tighter areas.

Make sure you have an inspection light when your compounding to make sure your results are satisfactory to your expectations.

Alot of beginners including my self when I started, didn't use a light and when I would take it out in the sun I would be dissapointed.

The best polishers in the world, need to inspect results. Never just assume all the defects are gone.

Also ultimate compound on your Honda should be the perfect combo due to there soft paint.

Any more questions don't be afraid to ask !
 
Thank you guys very much for your excellent help! And terrific advise with the light, and making sure it's done right NextLevelDtail!
 
If it's OEM soft honda paint, UC may leave some micromarring. Be sure to do a test spot and check your results with proper lighting.
 
I just cover areas I am concerned about with 3M blue painters tape. Things like pinstripes, raise areas, windshield washer nozzles, etc. For really tight areas, I just do by hand, haven't gone to the expense of getting 3in backing plate and pads.
 
willowcat11 said:
I am wondering what you guys do to get the real tight areas up against trim, and all other areas.

Do you end up just applying it by hand, or use a different tool?
Click to expand...

Masking tape the trim and proceed with the DA. Smaller backing plates and pads help for tricky areas like underneath the mirrors or the inside of the doors. Behind the door handle is normally done by hand.
 
Where do you live? I'm going to roll the dice and take my snow tires off today I know that that will ensure it to snow at least one more time just like it did last year
 
Thanks again for everyone elses truly helpful posts as well. Billy Baldone, I'm in Chicagoland, and our temps will be almost 60 degrees Friday and Saturday.
 
Oh I couldn't see where you are from on my phone. I'm in NW suburbs Woodstock. Good lipuck my friend
 
What pads are you gonna be using? What polish you gonna follow UC with?
 
Before you use a cutting pad with ultimate compound try a polishing pad, to see if that gets it done.

Now just because you see results, doesn't mean that's the route to go.

If you have to do 4 section passes using this method vs 1 section pass with a cutting pad. It is better to use the cutting pad as introducing alot of heat to the paint is not good.
 
NextLevelDtail said:
Before you use a cutting pad with ultimate compound try a polishing pad, to see if that gets it done.
Click to expand...


I was going to suggest the same idea.. However, what about if he were to only have what most of us start off with:
2 cutting pads
2 polishing pads
2 finishing pads

If that's the case then he might not have pads to use for polish once he's done compounding. Even if he were to use the blacks for polish, how bout if he needs them for lsp? Just a thought:)
 
Eldorado2k said:
I was going to suggest the same idea.. However, what about if he were to only have what most of us start off with:
2 cutting pads
2 polishing pads
2 finishing pads

If that's the case then he might not have pads to use for polish once he's done compounding. Even if he were to use the blacks for polish, how bout if he needs them for lsp? Just a thought:)
Click to expand...

if that is the case he is gonna HAVE to wash his pads as he goes anyways cause 2 pads ain't enough to do whole vehicle. As for lsp he can always do it by hand
 
Right now I have:

(6) 5" Megs Burgundy Pads(I got that many so I wouldn't need to clean on the fly).

(2) 5" Megs Yellow Polishing Pads(Mistake, I didn't think I would need more polishing pads, I need to get some, but since I'm doing car this weekend I will only have the 2.

(2) 5" Megs Black Finishing Pads
 
willowcat11 said:
Right now I have:

(6) 5" Megs Burgundy Pads(I got that many so I wouldn't need to clean on the fly).

(2) 5" Megs Yellow Polishing Pads(Mistake, I didn't think I would need more polishing pads, I need to get some, but since I'm doing car this weekend I will only have the 2.

(2) 5" Megs Black Finishing Pads
Click to expand...


you got a finishing polish to follow behind the UC?
how much correction you looking to get?
how about an AIO?
 
willowcat11 said:
Right now I have:

(6) 5" Megs Burgundy Pads(I got that many so I wouldn't need to clean on the fly).s
Click to expand...

You still need to clean your pads after every 2' x 2' section

Takes 10 seconds and well worth the insurance against picking up a piece of grit, agglomeration of polish & removed CC and over saturation of the pad. All of these will diminish the effectiveness of your efforts and can lead to excessive hazing.


I polish the section with the trigger locked.

Lift the polisher and go straight to the pad brush.

Set the machine down while I wipe of the section.

Apply more polish and back at it.

I keep this sequence, so that I always know the pad is clean.
 
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