How much time does a "real" polisher save over a PC?

DeansDetailing

DeansDetailing

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So, I did a full one step a few days ago. Used my Porter Cable. I've gotten more efficient over the last season. However, the black Altima would not give up her swirls and scratches so easily. Even with flat thin orange pads it took a lot of pressure. As I recall, it took appx 4hrs with the PC and a combination of HDCUT, orange pads and MF XTRA cut pads. The customer was happy, but I wasn't.

It was particularly frustrated on the vertical panels. Kept thinking...man I need a Flex or BOSS.

But I'm wondering how much actual time would be saved by stepping it up? Up to say 50% but more average around 33%?
 
I've often wondered the same thing, and tried to quantify the difference.

It will be interesting to see the input you get.
 
Nice video.

Looks like the Flex did it in about 60% of the time. What's more of an issue is that with the PC, the job wasn't nearly as complete. Assuming a car is 60 sq feet, with continuous polishing and no interruptions (i.e., no pad exchanges, cleaning, beer breaks), the Flex would achieve 90% or better correction in about 105 minutes. The PC would achieve 70% correction in about 180 minutes.

Obviously lots of variables, but extending from this video example on a mid-sized car with uniform defects, SF4000 and LC pads...
 
With a polisher like the Rupes 21 you have more power thus being able to remove more paint faster. It also allows you to run larger pads and covers more surface area with a 21mm throw compared to the PC's 8mm (if I'm remembering correctly). You also have to factor in the effort or muscle fatigue in using each machine, as the Rupes is extremely smooth compared to the PC. I really don't think there is any one factor that will answer the question but it's the culmination of a bunch of factors, sometimes small and subjectively measured.

I find the fastest correction is always using a combination of machines and pads sizes (ranging from 2-6.5 inches) to most effectively and efficiently polish each section you're working.
 
I have heard significantly faster. The porter cable used to be a good machine. It is now very outdated overall and other machines on the market are constantly making improvements
 
Of course it's prob better 8n every way look at the price difference

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Reading various reviews on the net it seems the consensus from those having owned both is it cuts time in half. Pretty darn good I'd say. If you're doing it for a living the Rupes and Flex seem the way to go. If you're a weekend warrior then it may not be worth the money.

I personally haven't used one and while I"d love to, I'm not interested in dropping $400-$500 for a new set up when I already have a Shurhold and Porter Cable that work. Again, if this was my career I'd buy one.
 
I'd say from a LOT of experience a real polisher or a pro-grade tool will save you 2-4 hours depending upon the size of the car, how many steps you're doing and the condition of the paint relative to the number of steps.

I teach a class at Mobile Tech Expo each year called,

How to turn the FLEX 3401 into a money making machine


And that's what I do. I teach guys how to turn this tool into a money making machine because you can as I like to say and you can quote me on this since I do say it,

"With a Flex 3401 you can POWER through a detail job"


The gear-driven design of this tool provides both

  1. Forced rotation
  2. Forced oscillation
And for these unique characteristics you can buff out paint swirl free faster than any tool in my experience.

That's not to take anything away from any other tools except the TIME FACTOR.


If you get a FLEX 3401 get a copy of my FLEX how-to book and read it from cover to cover and then you'll have the head knowledge to master this took the first time out of the box.


Also for the record, I teach guys and girls how to turn the FLEX 3401 into a money making machine at all my 3-day detailing classes and I document my classes with pictures and full write-ups like this,


How to use the Flex 3401 to remove swirls & water spots

Training car: 1955 Chevy 210

watermark.php


:xyxthumbs:
 
Here's an observation I've made over the years for what it's worth....

This is the natural progression for most detailers....

Start out working by hand.

Make the leap from working by hand to working by machine and purchase a tool like the Porter Cable 7424XP or any of the knock-offs of this tool and invest about $200.0 for the tool, backing plate and pads. They discover they can turn out better work faster than working by hand without any risks to the customer's car.

Make the leap from working with an entry level tool like the Porter Cable 7424XP to purchasing a FLEX 3401 or a RUPES BigFoot 15 or BigFoot 21 or the various versions of the RUPES tool and find out they can do better work faster than using the Porter Cable 7424XP.

Make the leap from working with orbital to ADDING a quality rotary polisher like the FLEX PE14 to their arsenal and when they really need to knock out deep or serious paint defects or sanding marks the fastest then START with the rotary and top notch abrasive technology and pads and finish with ANY orbital for hologram-free results.


Just an observation...


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I'd say from a LOT of experience a real polisher or a pro-grade tool will save you 2-4 hours depending upon the size of the car, how many steps you're doing and the condition of the paint relative to the number of steps.

I teach a class at Mobile Tech Expo each year called,

How to turn the FLEX 3401 into a money making machine


And that's what I do. I teach guys how to turn this tool into a money making machine because you can as I like to say and you can quote me on this since I do say it,

"With a Flex 3401 you can POWER through a detail job"


The gear-driven design of this tool provides both

  1. Forced rotation
  2. Forced oscillation
And for these unique characteristics you can buff out paint swirl free faster than any tool in my experience.

That's not to take anything away from any other tools except the TIME FACTOR.


If you get a FLEX 3401 get a copy of my FLEX how-to book and read it from cover to cover and then you'll have the head knowledge to master this took the first time out of the box.


Also for the record, I teach guys and girls how to turn the FLEX 3401 into a money making machine at all my 3-day detailing classes and I document my classes with pictures and full write-ups like this,


How to use the Flex 3401 to remove swirls & water spots

Training car: 1955 Chevy 210

watermark.php


:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...
When and where exactly is the expo,I live 15 miles from Mobile...if your fererring to alabama

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Here's an observation I've made over the years for what it's worth....

This is the natural progression for most detailers....

Start out working by hand.

Make the leap from working by hand to working by machine and purchase a tool like the Porter Cable 7424XP or any of the knock-offs of this tool and invest about $200.0 for the tool, backing plate and pads. They discover they can turn out better work faster than working by hand without any risks to the customer's car.

Make the leap from working with an entry level tool like the Porter Cable 7424XP to purchasing a FLEX 3401 or a RUPES BigFoot 15 or BigFoot 21 or the various versions of the RUPES tool and find out they can do better work faster than using the Porter Cable 7424XP.

Make the leap from working with orbital to ADDING a quality rotary polisher like the FLEX PE14 to their arsenal and when they really need to knock out deep or serious paint defects or sanding marks the fastest then START with the rotary and top notch abrasive technology and pads and finish with ANY orbital for hologram-free results.


Just an observation...


:)
Click to expand...

The last Nissan black paint (infinity) I worked on with hammered paint I I'd trust spots, all the way to my 3401 with a cutting pad and Menzerna FG 400. I was getting nowhere fast. Broke out my PE14 with a foamed purple wool pad and the same FG 400. I know had to of shaved 5-6 hours off the project.
If you need heavy cut on hard paint the PE 14 and wool is the way to go. Make sure you've get ome hours using a rotary before attempting this.
 
All things equal it probably saves me 40% of my time. But I find myself using that extra time to do more intricate work or get better correction, so real time savings may only be 20%, but since the results are better, it's also appropriate to charge more.

I get a bit better efficiency on multi step work since I would do that intricate work anyway and can now do it faster.
 
jeremyreed said:
When and where exactly is the expo,I live 15 miles from Mobile...if your fererring to alabama

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


THE Mobile Tech Expo, at least the official Mobile Tech Expo is in January of each year in Orlando, Florida.


Mobile Tech Expo Class Schedule for 2016

I teach a class for the FLEX 3401 and also for the RUPES BigFoot 15 & 21 Orbital Polishers. I also teach a class on machine wetsanding, (this one was packed out), as well as how to use a rotary buffer to reduce correction time. I also teach a class that shows you how to turn the Griot's Garage 3" polisher into a 3" machine sander and how to use the FLEX PE8 Kompact 3 for spot repair.

It's a great venue. Sad to say I was only there for Thursday this year as I had to fly out to Burbank, California to film an episode of Competition Ready showcasing Troy Ladd.

Behind the scenes with Troy Ladd at Hollywood Hotrods!




:dblthumb2:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Here's an observation I've made over the years for what it's worth....

This is the natural progression for most detailers....

Start out working by hand.

Make the leap from working by hand to working by machine and purchase a tool like the Porter Cable 7424XP or any of the knock-offs of this tool and invest about $200.0 for the tool, backing plate and pads. They discover they can turn out better work faster than working by hand without any risks to the customer's car.

Make the leap from working with an entry level tool like the Porter Cable 7424XP to purchasing a FLEX 3401 or a RUPES BigFoot 15 or BigFoot 21 or the various versions of the RUPES tool and find out they can do better work faster than using the Porter Cable 7424XP.

Make the leap from working with orbital to ADDING a quality rotary polisher like the FLEX PE14 to their arsenal and when they really need to knock out deep or serious paint defects or sanding marks the fastest then START with the rotary and top notch abrasive technology and pads and finish with ANY orbital for hologram-free results.


Just an observation...


:)
Click to expand...


The above is so accurate, that is exactly what happened with me, gosh you good!
 
How much time does a "real" polisher save over a PC?

Audios S6 said:
All things equal it probably saves me 40% of my time. But I find myself using that extra time to do more intricate work or get better correction, so real time savings may only be 20%, but since the results are better, it's also appropriate to charge more.

I get a bit better efficiency on multi step work since I would do that intricate work anyway and can now do it faster.
Click to expand...

Whoops, wrong quote.
 
How much time does a "real" polisher save over a PC?

DaveT435 said:
The last Nissan black paint (infinity) I worked on with hammered paint I I'd trust spots, all the way to my 3401 with a cutting pad and Menzerna FG 400. I was getting nowhere fast. Broke out my PE14 with a foamed purple wool pad and the same FG 400. I know had to of shaved 5-6 hours off the project.

If you need heavy cut on hard paint the PE 14 and wool is the way to go. Make sure you've get ome hours using a rotary before attempting this.
Click to expand...
Did you end up doing only 2 steps?
 
Zubair said:
The above is so accurate, that is exactly what happened with me, gosh you good!
Click to expand...

I second the evolution. Started with the PC, picked up the 3401 and recently made the leap to the Rupes 15 Mark II. All great machines. I switched from the PC to the Flex to better "power through" the detail and oh yes, the Flex is a beast when it comes to that. After having picked up my garage queen, I had no interest in "powering through" anything when it comes to this car. More about savoring every minute and the smoothness and "refinement" of the Rupes lets me enjoy the car even more.
 
Cabrio said:
More about savoring every minute and the smoothness and "refinement" of the Rupes lets me enjoy the car even more.
Click to expand...
Agreed. A lot more energy is required with the 3401, but it never stalls. I love that! However, the Rupes is definitely a lot more "enjoyable" to use.
 
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