The #7 Rub Down Technique by Mike Phillips

Can I use this procedure for Meguias #305 or would work best using a polisher?
 
crrdvr6 said:
Can I use this procedure for Meguiars #305 or would work best using a polisher?
Click to expand...


You're question is confusing?

First - What are you working on?

(for some reason no one ever mentions this?)



If you're asking can you SUBSTITUTE Meguiar's #305 for Meguiar's #7 then the answer is "no" not if your goal is to restore antique paint using the best product for the job.

The best product for the job is #7.


If you're asking if you can machine apply #7 to restore antique paint you can but somewhere on this forum I've explained in detail for restoring antique paint the best approach is the safe approach and the old-fashioned approach and that's to rub the paint by hand using cotton terrycloth.

If you're asking can you machine apply M305 to restore antique paint see both answers above.


If you're asking if you can machine apply M305 to a new car with modern paint then the answer is "yes" and this probably isn't the thread for that question as this thread is about restoring original, single stage paint.


Hope that helps...


:dunno:
 
Sorry for the confusion, my car is 24 years old. I have #305 and was wondering if I can apply a heavy coat, wait, then remove it by hand or would #305 work best with a polisher.
 
crrdvr6 said:
Sorry for the confusion, my car is 24 years old. I have #305 and was wondering if I can apply a heavy coat, wait, then remove it by hand or would #305 work best with a polisher.
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What condition is the paint in?

What is it you're trying to accompish with the heavy applicaton of M305?

Does this car have single stage paint or does it have a modern clearcoat?

:)
 
Mike I have a 1965 Piper Cherokee. Single stage white paint with some red and brown stripes. Would this be the right thing to use before topping with collinite 845? The paint is in fair condition.....It's still shiny in some places and dull in others. My only worry is that I am not sure if it's compatible with aluminum. Any tips for polishing/waxing airplanes?
 
alexaggie said:
Mike I have a 1965 Piper Cherokee. Single stage white paint with some red and brown stripes.

Would this be the right thing to use before topping with Collinite 845?

The paint is in fair condition.....It's still shiny in some places and dull in others.

My only worry is that I am not sure if it's compatible with aluminum.

Any tips for polishing/waxing airplanes?
Click to expand...


Hi Alex,

I just now found your post.

Sometimes it's better to start a new and dedicated thread versus tagging your post onto an existing thread.

Simply because it can be overlooked (by accident).



:)
 
alexaggie said:
Mike I have a 1965 Piper Cherokee. Single stage white paint with some red and brown stripes.
Click to expand...


Does it look something like this?


Piper_Cherokee_001.jpg


Piper_Cherokee_002.jpg


Piper_Cherokee_003.jpg



alexaggie said:
Would this be the right thing to use before topping with Collinite 845? The paint is in fair condition.....It's still shiny in some places and dull in others.
Click to expand...

Yes with a qualifier.

My original how-to article on how to restore single stage paint states,


Mike Phillips said:
What to do

If preserving the original paint is important to you then the first thing you want to do is condition the paint before working on it. Most people just jump right in and start rubbing some type of abrasive compound over old, dry, fragile paint and this will remove a lot of paint quickly and possible remove too much. Instead, take the extra step of conditioning the paint and bring it back to life with product that's been around since cars and thus car paints have been around.
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Note the word important is bold and red.

My point is, the technique I share for restoring antique paint is really only for people that the thing they are working on is IMPORTANT to them.

If your answer is "yes" then I say yes! use this technique to restore and revitalize the paint before waxing.



Here's the link to the article,

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints


alexaggie said:
My only worry is that I am not sure if it's compatible with aluminum.
Click to expand...

Well you're not really working on aluminum but the paint on the aluminum. Either way, #7 is compatible with the paint on your 1965 Piper Cherokee and if there's any exposed aluminum surfaces it will cause no harm.


alexaggie said:
Any tips for polishing/waxing airplanes?
Click to expand...


Yes. Avoid using anything aggressive in the way of products, pads and tools on airplanes. Most plane designs include overlapping aluminum panels with an exposed hard edge and also rivets.

If you buff over these things you will likely remove the paint and expose bare aluminum. The ISSUE is it's pretty much impossible to hand or machine polish an airplane without rubbing over the these surfaces.

Without seeing the plane here's my guess. If you rub the paint down with the #7 and some cotton terry cloth you should be able to remove any chalky oxidation. Then seal the paint with the wax.

If rubbing with the #7 and some cotton terrycloth doesn't remove the oxidation then you'll have to use something more aggressive like a polish.

I'd suggest trying the #7 and the terrycloth first and see what you can do.

As for tool, I'd highly recommend using a Porter Cable 7424XP or a tool like it, for example the Griot's Garage 6" DA polisher. (same type of tool just different manufacturer)


:)
 
Yes sir! Thats what it looks like! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer in so much depth. I really appreciate it! I got a PC from you guys a couple of weeks ago and hopefully can get to work on it this week. The paint is only really important to me because of the cost of getting it painted, but that makes it important enough!

Thanks again!
 
alexaggie said:
Yes sir! Thats what it looks like!

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer in so much depth. I really appreciate it!
Click to expand...

No problemo... that's what a good car detailing forum is about...

helping others to be successful in their garage or in your case in your airport hanger!



alexaggie said:
I got a PC from you guys a couple of weeks ago and hopefully can get to work on it this week.

The paint is only really important to me because of the cost of getting it painted, but that makes it important enough!


Thanks again!
Click to expand...


I think I speak for everyone here on the forum that we would love to see some pictures.


Be careful when standing on scaffolding.



:)
 
Work is slow going, but I think I have my process down and am getting pretty good results. Have only gotten the wings and elevator done so far. Fuselage will be this coming week. Clay pad followed by #7 rubdown with a coating of collinite seems to get me the results I am looking for! Thanks again for your help!

Before:
View attachment 50235View attachment 50236



After:

View attachment 50237View attachment 50238View attachment 50239

As I said, the main point was to rejuvenate the paint and get some UV protection. Polish and shine were secondary, but were much better than my expectations! Will post once everything is done. It's amazing how much surface area there is!
 
Looks good. I'll bet bug cleaning will be much easier. What year and model is the plane?
 
Thanks again Mike for your awesome information!
Ill be using this on Barbra Mandrell's (or one of her sisters) 1958 MG in a couple of weeks.
I can't wait to see the results!
 
alexaggie said:
Work is slow going, but I think I have my process down and am getting pretty good results. Have only gotten the wings and elevator done so far. Fuselage will be this coming week. Clay pad followed by #7 rubdown with a coating of collinite seems to get me the results I am looking for! Thanks again for your help!

As I said, the main point was to rejuvenate the paint and get some UV protection. Polish and shine were secondary, but were much better than my expectations! Will post once everything is done. It's amazing how much surface area there is!
Click to expand...


Looking great!


I took the liberty to download your picturs and then upload them into your free gallery here on AGO to insert them for posterity...


Before

1965_Piper_Cherokee_001.jpg
1965_Piper_Cherokee_002.jpg




After

1965_Piper_Cherokee_003.jpg


1965_Piper_Cherokee_004.jpg
1965_Piper_Cherokee_005.jpg




I can't tell you enough how much I appreciate the follow-up and sharing both your experience and the pictures. It helps to inspire others into the future!


:dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2:
 
Detailing by M said:
Thanks again Mike for your awesome information!
Click to expand...

Hi Mario,

Long time no see since the day of when I was at Meguiar's and you use to come to many of the TNOGS.



Detailing by M said:
Ill be using this on Barbra Mandrell's (or one of her sisters) 1958 MG in a couple of weeks.

I can't wait to see the results!
Click to expand...

Please take and share before and after pictures.


:)
 
Can #7 be applied in direct sunlight?

If so, how long can I have it on for before wiped off?
 
Dan Tran said:
Can #7 be applied in direct sunlight?

If so, how long can I have it on for before wiped off?
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There's a difference between direct sunlight and hot temperatures.

Early in the morning when the sun comes up you're in direct sunlight but the temps are still cool.

Make sense?


Here's the deal. ALL paint care products work better on a cool surface in the shade. If you have to work on HOT body panels in direct sunlight then you need to reduce both the area you work and the time the product is on the surface.

What are you working on?


:dunno:
 
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