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Everyone praises Menzerna products, but aren't they temperamental with the weather? Being in FL, makes me cautious about purchasing them. I have heard the humidity wreaks havoc with them. Also, I have a UDM and it seems like they are designed more for a rotary.
Thoughts?
If I'm correct, I should try to remove paint defects in the following in order:
1) 106ff with white LC
2) 106ff with orange LC, then again with white LC
3) SIP with white LC, then 106ff with white LC
4) SIP with orange LC, then 106ff with white LC
Do you need to worry about finishing after 106ff? Maybe using a grey LC is enough for this purpose?
106 will finish perfect with a white or green pad....ready for a LSP.....
AL
These polishes were designed to work in the controlled temperature / humidity environment of a vehicle manufacturer’s paint shop finishing line, so silicone has an adverse effect on oils used for surface lubrication and can cause the polish to smear, also be aware that working outside you may have issues like excess humidity, heat, cold, etc that will affect there performance especially with the Nano polish (105FF) as it uses wax as a lubricant (colder temps may cause the wax to harden) It should also be noted that these polishes use an oil in water emulsion for lubrication, if you are using a polymer after polishing it will be necessary to wipe-down the paint surface with Menzerna Top Inspection or a 1:1 solution of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water.
zoomzoom mazda5 said:Hi blk45, i haven't had any problems with 106ff & SIP with this heat so far in the Bay area..........Angelo.......... :cheers:
killrwheels@autogeek said:I live in Florida and have endorsed the two Menzerna ceramic polishes since their release almost three years ago. They also work just plain awesome with ROB's as well as the rotary counterpart.
after i used it i did a wipe down on each panel with alcohol anyway just to prepare the surface nice . and i worked out side with it and no probs what so ever