Priming thin pads?

kjn

kjn

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How is everyone priming their thin pads? I have some LC Thinpro pads that I'll be using Menz and HD polishes. Should I prime the whole pad or 4-6 dime size dots? Thanks
 
Hmm anyone? Pads are gonna be used on a rupes 15 if it matters.
 
kjn said:
How is everyone priming their thin pads? I have some LC Thinpro pads that I'll be using Menz and HD polishes. Should I prime the whole pad or 4-6 dime size dots? Thanks
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Never prime with HD products, that;s rule numero uno when using them, number 2 isa little goes a long way. 5 pea sized drops, then when reapplying put thie 5 pea size drops in a different area of the pad etc etc etc.
 
custmsprty said:
Never prime with HD products, that;s rule numero uno when using them, number 2 isa little goes a long way. 5 pea sized drops, then when reapplying put thie 5 pea size drops in a different area of the pad etc etc etc.
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What is the reason for not priming? I've always been wondering this. The pad is essentially "self primed" long before you switch it out, so it's hard to see why not priming it to begin with could be so crucial. And it also seems strange to initially be spinning the dry pad on the paint. No argument here, just genuinely curious. Thanks.
 
Harpolith said:
What is the reason for not priming? I've always been wondering this. The pad is essentially "self primed" long before you switch it out, so it's hard to see why not priming it to begin with could be so crucial. And it also seems strange to initially be spinning the dry pad on the paint. No argument here, just genuinely curious. Thanks.
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Priming the pad insures the abrasives are working for you throughout the whole face of the pad. It's just good practice with certain polishes. Sure, even if you didn't initially prime, after a couple sections your pad would be primed. If you initially prime with some products, you'll overload the pad. Too much product can have a negative effect.
 
custmsprty said:
Never prime with HD products, that;s rule numero uno when using them, number 2 isa little goes a long way. 5 pea sized drops, then when reapplying put thie 5 pea size drops in a different area of the pad etc etc etc.
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Thanks, would you use this same technique with Menz as well?
 
I never prime foam pads... IMO the longer they can go without becoming loaded up with excess product the better.
 
No priming needed with Menzerna as well. If you want, you can give a fresh dry pad a light spritz with a pad conditioner or light duty QD and then add your working product.
 
I also never prime foam pads. I've been using the Rupes philosophy before I ever even knew what a Rupes was - four or five pea size drops of product around the edge of the pad, three drops to reload, and light pressure. That approach always made the most sense to me.
 
Years ago an X on the pad was sufficient, then we went to a circle, now dots....
 
Would you prime before using Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish on an LC Thinpro pad?
 
I don't see having bare foam grinding on my paint will help.

No product in my opinion, means no performance.

Having said that with 1 " pads, three smudges of product will sling.

I always prime pads and smear on surface at low speed.

Work my section and clean pad with microfiber towel and put 3 pea size drops for next section.

If pad gets too "gummy" I switch to fresh pad.

I find the ThinPro pads work very well with this method.
 
Crispy said:
I don't see having bare foam grinding on my paint will help.

No product in my opinion, means no performance.

Having said that with 1 " pads, three smudges of product will sling.

I always prime pads and smear on surface at low speed.

Work my section and clean pad with microfiber towel and put 3 pea size drops for next section.

If pad gets too "gummy" I switch to fresh pad.

I find the ThinPro pads work very well with this method.
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I don't think anyone is advocating using bare, dry pads to buff their car. Although Larry Kosilla of Ammo NYC has a very interesting water polishing technique.

If you're talking about minimal amounts of product on a pad, the polish spreads out as soon as you start the polisher. Any spots on the paint that may have been adversely affected are going to be polished through the buffing cycle anyways.
 
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