Rupes mark ii 15 stalling badly

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don40vette

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i paid $400 for a polisher that stalls with zero pressure on a flat panel using Rupes polish and pads. If you keep the machine within 2-3 degrees axis of rotation it will keep spinning but otherwise it just stalls and that is with washer mod.
I love how little vibration it has but is it because at least 50% of the the time it is not rotating.
Im sure if more people that own these were to put marks on their backing plate this would become a huge issue.
 
I have to ask, are you using enough product? What speed are you using?
 
Typically if the machine is stalling on you its due to they way the user is holding it. The long throw polishers have to remain flat at all times, if you have pressure more to one side or the other it can stall. The complex curves are always a problem area for the long throw machines but once you get used to the machine you will learn how to make it keep working. I am in no way stating you are wrong to be frustrated but there is a learning curve on the long throw machines. Keep playing around with different techniques and you will find one that works well for you.
 
I have a G15 and although it works great on flat panels I can't keep it turning on the least curve. I have the washer mod also. Between my '15 Yukon and Sierra there isn't much flat surface. I finally just put it up with maybe 8-10hrs on it. I have two GG6's and they get me buy with awesome results. I guess I just don't have the long throw hand.
 
Give it time. Those machines have a bit of a learning curve. I don't use the washer, and can usually keep it spinning just fine.

I remember having to experiment with angles, especially on sides, contours, and curves. I would also try an position myself in a manner where I could observe the pad contacting the paint.

One you get it down, you'll be good.

Also remember that the throw will do some work on it's own as well, even if your rotation has slowed or stalled.

I had to go back to my PC the first few jobs I tried to use it on.
 
It's not that you can't aquire the technique though. I was a novice to long throw like everyone was since its a newer technology than the typical da of old. It is like anything in life without hours of practice we can not perfect a skill. Paint correction is a art form to me in many ways. I found not using the entire pad on a complex curve can help the pad stay rotating well. I would not reccomend doing it with a fresh amount of polish for obvious reasons. Do not give up on it keep playing with it, buy a junkyard hood or side panel and go to town. That way if you destroy it who cares it wasn't much cash to begin with.
 
There could be a few things going on here the way I see it:

1. The machine is defective. Possible, but not likely. Or, possibly the BP somehow became bent or warped during shipping.

2. The OP needs more seat time with the machine to get used to it. I hate to say "user error", because it's prolly going to just irritate the OP (and I do not know his level of experience with these machines)...

But, I have owned to original 15 and the MKII 15. I can use the MKII on virtually any convex or concave surface with a variety of polishes on speed 5 without stalling and no washer mod. But there is a slight period of just getting used to how to hold them machine. And yes, my BP is marked and I am getting rotation.

3. The machine needs to break in a bit. I noticed both my machines spun better after a few uses.

4. Something funky is going on with the OPs power supply to the machine. Maybe the extension cord is damaged or not the right gauge. Or, maybe it's like 200 feet long. Dunno. If not enough "power" is supplied - the machine could feel weak.

5. Too much or not enough polish is being used.

Just some possibilities of what is going on from someone who owns this machine.
 
AbileneAutoWerx said:
I have two GG6's and they get me buy with awesome results. I guess I just don't have the long throw hand.
Click to expand...

smart man to have two GG6's, one can serve as a back-up if needed. the little sucker has some torque and is harder to bog down/stall than the other traditional/free floating spindle DA types...
 
I would suggest learning on a polish where you prime the pad ie: 205
 
Come on guys, the right speed, right amount of polish, the right angle. If that is the case then Rupes should have all that information.
I have a Flex 14-PE2-150 rotary that I have used after wet sanding two black cars that turned out like mirrors.
I know, some will say go back to the rotary. It is fast and does a great job but it makes a mess.
I just have a hard time believing that if I get off one or two degrees of perfect center that the machine stops spinning
 
don40vette said:
Come on guys, the right speed, right amount of polish, the right angle. If that is the case then Rupes should have all that information.
I have a Flex 14-PE2-150 rotary that I have used after wet sanding two black cars that turned out like mirrors.
I know, some will say go back to the rotary. It is fast and does a great job but it makes a mess.
I just have a hard time believing that if I get off one or two degrees of perfect center that the machine stops spinning
Click to expand...

This is on page 2 of Mike Phillips' how to book for the Rupes polishing system.

I was frustrated as heck with that thing. Like I said, I kept going back to the Porter Cable. But I dedicated some time when I wasn't on the job to acquainting myself with it. It paid off because the results have been better than I would have imagined.
 
don40vette said:
Come on guys, the right speed, right amount of polish, the right angle. If that is the case then Rupes should have all that information.
I have a Flex 14-PE2-150 rotary that I have used after wet sanding two black cars that turned out like mirrors.
I know, some will say go back to the rotary. It is fast and does a great job but it makes a mess.
I just have a hard time believing that if I get off one or two degrees of perfect center that the machine stops spinning
Click to expand...

It's fairly well known that these new long throw machines are a more acquired learning curve. All things things you are throwing out that are unpleasant make all the difference in the polish process. You gotta keep it flat to make it spin, you gotta have the right amount of polish or you load the pad and it doesn't work correctly, and arm speed and the speed on the machine are very important as well. You can't use the new rules on setting 6 very well you will run through pads quick and run the risk of damaging your backing plate, the Velcro part and on the pad as well this is called de lamination of the pad. These are highly efficent machines and require percision to operate. Anybody can pick up a scapul and make a cut but a surgeon does it with the most efficent way due to hours of learning and practice. Sorry you find it unrealistic but that's just polishing in my book, it takes time to make a fine wine or whiskey
 
Wow! That's the first time I've heard of long throw machines being that critical. Don't have those machines, or Mike's book on them, but this is the first time I've ever read anything like that on this forum...been here since 2011 and read a lot, so it must have slipped through the cracks on me. That said, I have used the 3401, but I do not own one. I've experienced how it can walk on you, but I adapted quickly and if you're the coordinated type it'll teach you how to use it properly. Don't yet own a 3401, but I'll be taking Rsurfer's advice when I step up to another DA. For now my G110v2, rotary, and Dynabrade attachment for my rotary (though heavy) are quite capable of doing anything I need. My G110v2 cost me more than the other two I have, so I'm sort of lucky I haven't needed to spend the money yet on a 3401...but it's in the plans...I just don't need it at the moment.

Though it's real heavy, the Harbor Freight rotary with my Dynabrade (turns my rotary into a forced rotation DA tool ) attachment with newer thin pads = swirl killer combo...on small budget.

I know...I know...
I need to step out of the stone age, and into the new age 3401. LOL! ...but it really does work. :)
 
VISITOR said:
smart man to have two GG6's, one can serve as a back-up if needed. the little sucker has some torque and is harder to bog down/stall than the other traditional/free floating spindle DA types...
Click to expand...

They are like little tanks man!
 
99% of video demos are shown on FLAT surfaces, which makes it look easy. There is definitely seat time needed with long throws to learn to lessen the stalling problem on anything that's not flat. Side note, ever since I got my pad washer for cleaning on the fly, I've noticed a damp pad spins a lot easier than a non damp one.
 
I own three Rupes Polishers and love them and if I had $5.00 for every post about them and stalling I'd have gotten them for free :buffing:
 
It's not that they are critical in a bad way it's just a learning curve. We all had to start polishing at some point and learned then so why can't we retrain on new equipment? It took me about 3 panels to figure out how to make the machine run more effectively. I used to much pressure initally and found myself favoring pressure to the right side which is my dominant hand. I corrected my position and technique and now I can polish with one hand on hoods and roofs with ease. They are exceptional machines but require you to pay more attention than a flex that will spin on its own all day long. I find the flex to be much more strenuous over a full day of polishing personally, but they are still wonderful machines as well just not my flavor of choice.
 
I use my Rupes mk1 & 2 on my mk1 Audi TT. more curves than my wife. Well almost. I'm a lucky guy :)

Anyhow, the TT is an '01 and has not been garaged in New England for 15 years. I used the Rupes machines as a beginner. The car looks great and I had no issues. No pressure. Let the machine do the work. And yes, I did put a marker on the backing plate.


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