First time using my DA, not thrilled..

Weaverpsu

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Below is a photo that shows the difference before and after. Although it brought back the natural color, it didn't impress me very much. I used Chemical Guys V34, 36, and 38. Using Orange cutting pad and moving on to White pad with V38. Also, afterwards I noticed a tremendous amount of whitish specks everywhere. Now, I'm not sure if they were there before and I just didn't notice them, or if buffing brought them out. It's my 2006 Explorer and the reason I did hood was basically to practice before moving on to my newer 4Runner. Still, it was a lot of work for only subpar results. Did several passes with each stage of polish. Any thoughts?
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My 4Runner has lots of scratches that you cannot feel with a nail and feel like they should come out with the buffer relatively easy. I'm thinking of moving on to Meguiars' 105 and 205 as the results with CG has not been good. Also, I've been hearing that foam pads aren't very great for getting out minor, thin scratches and some have said to just get microfiber cutting pads. Is this necessary? I already bought 3 foam pads (orange, white, black) if my memory is correct. Lastly, can I get out most of these minor scratches without wet sanding? Aren't these polishes designed to buff out minor scratches?? Thanks!!
 
Order the pinnacle advanced compound/polish. Chem Guys doesnt make much that works well.

But it takes practice, keep at it.
 
I'm wondering if those marks are sand blasting marks that become more pronounced as you remove the finer blemishes around them?
 
If it were me I would look at a better product. I am not a Chemical Guy's fan PERIOD. I had 1st hand experience with V36 and V38 and I could not finish the correction. Luckily, I had a little Menzerna left and was at least able to finish the compounding. I had some McGuire's 205 left and finished the rest. The Chemical Guys stuff went in the trash. I have used a couple of other Chemical Guys products and had similar experiences. Others may have had better experience with any Chemical Guys products. I no longer even consider them for any detailing decisions. I would look at Menzerna, Pinnacle, Wolfgang or McGuiar's compounding/polishing products.

IMO I think you will have a better experience in your next detail with your DA.
 
are you doing the whole car with just one pad per product?? or do you have multiple sets of the 3 pack?
 
First - Here's your pictures...


white_specks_01.jpg


white_specks_02.jpg



Also, afterwards I noticed a tremendous amount of whitish specks everywhere.

Did several passes with each stage of polish.

Any thoughts?


The word is troubleshooting....


First, take a clean, microfiber towel or wax applicator pad and rub some wax or a fine cut polish over JUST A SECTION of the paint where you see these specs.

See if they wipe off.

If not then I'd say you have cracks in your Ford's paint. This is common on the hood of cars. If it is cracks, then the reason they are showing up is you filled them with compound/polish and it's really hard to get the residue out of the cracks.

You can try machine polishing a finishing wax over them and this might remove the compound/polish residue and replace it with the wax.

A finishing wax has no CLEANERS in it so nothing to turn white.


:)
 
I have a Porter Cable knockoff from HF. Same power, size, etc. If I try to post pictures before making them smaller they fail to attach. Cruz, I used only 1 pad but also only did half the hood with it before cleaning. Also, I used clay bar first before attempting project.
 
Below is a photo that shows the difference before and after. Although it brought back the natural color, it didn't impress me very much. I used Chemical Guys V34, 36, and 38. Using Orange cutting pad and moving on to White pad with V38. Also, afterwards I noticed a tremendous amount of whitish specks everywhere. Now, I'm not sure if they were there before and I just didn't notice them, or if buffing brought them out. It's my 2006 Explorer and the reason I did hood was basically to practice before moving on to my newer 4Runner. Still, it was a lot of work for only subpar results. Did several passes with each stage of polish. Any thoughts?
View attachment 51776 View attachment 51777

Can't comment on the products as I don't use nor have used those. My guess is simliar to what's already been noted. The vehicle in question is nearly 11 years old and likely has some cracking of the clear coat. Has it or is it exposed to elements quite a bit as in parked outside vs a garage? How about sun, are you near the equator/southern part of the US? How have you cared for it over the years? All these factors could cause paint to crack over time and when you polish the compounds are amplifying the cracks because they are filled with it. As mike notes, a finishing wax should dry clear and not make them as visible.

Pad wise, you should be using multiple per vehicle. For an Explorer I'd say a new pad every couple panels so 5-6 per vehicle for compounding and same for polishing. Finishing wax or LSP I would use 2. Mainly for the sake of one becoming overloaded with product and I like to keep more on hand in case one is dropped.

Polisher wise, the one you're using is an entry level unit. They work fine but just be sure you mark your backing plate so that you can tell if it's stalls. I used a Porter Cable 7424 series for a long while prior to biting the bullet and buying a Flex 3401. Hindsight I should have just bought the Flex years ago and saved myself hours of time.
 
You may want to try out the products you have on the Toyota first. The paint may be softer and you may get better results.

Just a thought.

Edit: I don't know much about their products, but I would try to one, or two step polish if you can.

Do a couple of test spots with different pads if you have them. Maybe you can get one to give you good cut but still finish well.
 
Yeah, I don't think the Truck was really ever cared for. I guess I was hoping I could bring back some of its luster but perhaps due to neglect, that can't be done.
 
Looks similar to "crows feet" in the paint. You can't correct that without repainting.
 
Another thing is you are using a DA, not a rotary. A DA has it's limits, especially if it's not forced rotation.
 
Lots of great advice here, to include from the master himself, Mike.

The HF polisher is not a bad machine. I've been using mine for years now. The products and pads are probably where you can gain the most improvements. Going with a Lake Country 5" backing plate along with a host of 5.5" pads in orange, white and blue/black will do you wonders. Stepping up to a better polish/compound will provide much better results too, as long as the paint is state it can be recovered.

Your 4Runner should be pretty easy correct. My wife's Highlander has really soft paint, and a white LC Flat pad with Meguiars Ultimate Polish clears it up every time very nicely. I've never had a need to go with a MF pad or even a compound, to include wiping out the damage caused during dealer prep for delivery. If I do need something stronger, I'll go for a more aggressive foam pad and compound before I'd even think about a MF pad.
 
I have a Porter Cable knockoff from HF. Same power, size, etc. If I try to post pictures before making them smaller they fail to attach. Cruz, I used only 1 pad but also only did half the hood with it before cleaning. Also, I used clay bar first before attempting project.

Your machine, your pads, your polish - none of these would make anyone's top 10 list. But if you want to try to make this system work, I'd try different pads first, the HF pads I tried were way too soft to correct.
 
I have a Porter Cable knockoff from HF.

It's not a PC knock off. It certainly deserves better than to be mentioned in such a way, especially since you haven't even given it a fair shot to do it's job. I didn't read every word in this thread, but I heard you mention 1 pad. If you expect "dazzling" results, you're going to have to invest a bit more than your efforts so far. You expect to be dazzled, yet you only managed to polish half the hood? Are you even motivated? No offense but it doesn't sound like it.

That "knock off" happens to have a noticable upgrade in speed, torque, and power vs. the PC... In no way am I suggesting you outta be an instant fanboy just because you bought it, I just don't understand the instant disrespect towards it. Why even mention or compare it to a PC when the PC is inferior to it? But whatever, if you truly believe it's below certain standards then you'll probably wind up with below standard results.

Another thing is you are using a DA, not a rotary. A DA has it's limits, especially if it's not forced rotation.

A DA has is limits, yes, but that really only applies to certain things and not necessarily as a whole. Yea it has its limits vs. a rotary if you're talking time and effort.. But in the end they're both going to wind up at the same destination.

As the Junkman would say "Destination Shineville" HF DA did the job. You're telling me a rotary or any other polishers end result would look significantly better than 100% correction? On this paint? Keep in mind this is a daily driven 2003 Toyota Tacoma. It is what it is, meaning it's not perfect.. And no amount of $ that you can pay for a "worthy" polisher is going to change that. You can polish a turd, but certain defects can't be polished out [i.e. small chips, cracks, whatever you want to call them] because you can't make those bits that make it a turd magically disappear and expect perfection unless you repaint the panel. In this case it's not the DA that's limiting the results, it's the paint that's holding back perfection.

It doesn't matter if I used my HF DA or my $400 Griots Boss 21 to polish this paint, as long as the defects were able to be removed by both machines without any significant issues [i.e. crazy hard paint that the 8mm couldn't handle] then they both would've ended up with this same end result. I think we can agree on that.

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Your machine, your pads, your polish - none of these would make anyone's top 10 list.

So the PC was a workhorse and a starter machine for a whole generation of detailers and has stood the test of time to have earned its honorable mention and respect..

But a totally different tool company comes along and manufacturers a polisher that's actually more powerful than the PC, but all of a sudden there's no way it would ever make anyone's "top ten list"... Who are these people? I'd love to see a real life Pepsi challenge between these entry level polishers 1 day so we could have a good laugh at everyones real unbiased opinions based on performance and results, instead of a brand name on a label.
 
Summary; your polishers fine, do play with pads and compounds to give yourself more option.
And don't confuse a polisher with a spray booth ��
And stick at it, my first car only pulled out 80% of the defects...
Still 80% less sh1t than when I started...

Have fun practicing in the Tacoma.. It'll look heaps better by the end..
All the best.
 
Summary; your polishers fine, do play with pads and compounds to give yourself more option.
And don't confuse a polisher with a spray booth 😉
And stick at it, my first car only pulled out 80% of the defects...
Still 80% less sh1t than when I started...

Have fun practicing in the Tacoma.. It'll look heaps better by the end..
All the best.

Also, the paint is done.
 
Yeah, I don't think the Truck was really ever cared for. I guess I was hoping I could bring back some of its luster but perhaps due to neglect, that can't be done.

In my opinion - You're looking to bring back the luster with the tools and polishes you have on hand (VS getting a respray). I guarantee if you stick with it and work through correcting the whole vehicle to the level of your 50/50 shot, you'll have a dramitic improvement in curb appeal ( = luster). My wife's black A4 was ROUGH when she got it, which meant I could only safely take it so far. Sure, when I was done there were still RIDS and you could see the sandblasting dits in the hood, but it still had great shine and garnered plenty of compliments.

Sorry I'm not savy enough to do multiple quotes in a thread - But as Eldorado2k said: "It doesn't matter if I used my HF DA or my $400 Griots Boss 21 to polish this paint, as long as the defects were able to be removed by both machines without any significant issues" - I think only having so much clear to work with and the condition it's in are the signifigant issues you're up against.
 
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