Inside Griot's Garage

[Bosko]

 

[BlackCarBlues]

Lesson learned: do not use Ceramic Speed Shine as a rinse aid.

I washed the car, rinsed the car, sprayed on Ceramic Speed Shine thinking it would boost the underlying Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax, then rinsed off. Then blew off the car with EGO 530 and towel dried the remaining little bit of water.

The CSS did bring back the hydrophobicity in places towards the bottom of the car where it was failing (most of the car still beaded perfectly).

The next day I noticed most of the horizontal panels (hood, roof, trunk) were noticeably streaky/spotty. I used up the bottle of CSS, so I didn’t have any left to go over it in hopes that it would remove the streaks and spots. Regular Speed Shine did not help either. It did come off easily by putting a few sprays of Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax on a microfiber and then buffing. My conclusion there is that both CSS and C3i1 have the same solvents to put the ceramic into solution.


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[Klasse Act]

Yeah I always spray, wipe in and buff

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[BlackCarBlues]

Yeah I always spray, wipe in and buff

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Yep, it does work well as a drying aid. I also really like the effect BOSS Detailer has, so sometimes I’ll forgo the drying aid and then just go over the entire car with that. I bet regular Speed Shine would be okay to use as a drying aid before going over the whole dry car with the BOSS Detailer (and probably safer) but something in my head doesn’t want to use a drying aid before the final wipe with BOSS Detailer.


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[CleanIT]

Lesson learned: do not use Ceramic Speed Shine as a rinse aid.

I washed the car, rinsed the car, sprayed on Ceramic Speed Shine thinking it would boost the underlying Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax, then rinsed off. Then blew off the car with EGO 530 and towel dried the remaining little bit of water.

The CSS did bring back the hydrophobicity in places towards the bottom of the car where it was failing (most of the car still beaded perfectly).

The next day I noticed most of the horizontal panels (hood, roof, trunk) were noticeably streaky/spotty. I used up the bottle of CSS, so I didn’t have any left to go over it in hopes that it would remove the streaks and spots. Regular Speed Shine did not help either. It did come off easily by putting a few sprays of Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax on a microfiber and then buffing. My conclusion there is that both CSS and C3i1 have the same solvents to put the ceramic into solution.


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How much of the CSS did you use? CSS was a bit streaky for me, but that was likely due to the temperature the time I applied it.

 

[BlackCarBlues]

How much of the CSS did you use? CSS was a bit streaky for me, but that was likely due to the temperature the time I applied it.

About 1/3 of the 22oz bottle over the whole car. I applied liberally since the car was soaking wet with lots of water beads on it. But also, it was only about 40°F, so it don’t really think it dried on there much if at all.


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[MisterSnoop]

About 1/3 of the 22oz bottle over the whole car. I applied liberally since the car was soaking wet with lots of water beads on it. But also, it was only about 40°F, so it don’t really think it dried on there much if at all.

I've never used it as a drying aid but that seems like a lot. I normally dry the car and then come back with the CSS, 1-2 sprays per panel, 3-4 for the hood.

 

[Klasse Act]

About 1/3 of the 22oz bottle over the whole car. I applied liberally since the car was soaking wet with lots of water beads on it. But also, it was only about 40°F, so it don’t really think it dried on there much if at all.


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So you sprayed a wet car with it, liberally and then hosed off

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[SNP209]

Yep, it does work well as a drying aid. I also really like the effect BOSS Detailer has, so sometimes I’ll forgo the drying aid and then just go over the entire car with that. I bet regular Speed Shine would be okay to use as a drying aid before going over the whole dry car with the BOSS Detailer (and probably safer) but something in my head doesn’t want to use a drying aid before the final wipe with BOSS Detailer.


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No need for a rinse aid since the griot's 3-1 should be hydrophobic enough to evacuate the majority of the water via forced air. Just remove most of the water with your ego and then start going over the car with BOSS detailer, that way you are able to catch any remaining water that is left over and you are still giving it a final wipe down as well. BOSS detailer is great stuff, the scent is one of my favorites!

 

[BlackCarBlues]

So you sprayed a wet car with it, liberally and then hosed off

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Yep. I know C3i1 can be used in that way as a rinse aid. I thought maybe the CSS could also be used that way to boost the C3i1. Didn’t work as planned and left spots/streaks. Thinking maybe due to the extra stuff they add which are responsible for the cleaning function of CSS. Also not very economical to use liberally (the CSS is only a dollar or two cheaper than the C3i1).


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[BlackCarBlues]

No need for a rinse aid since the griot's 3-1 should be hydrophobic enough to evacuate the majority of the water via forced air. Just remove most of the water with your ego and then start going over the car with BOSS detailer, that way you are able to catch any remaining water that is left over and you are still giving it a final wipe down as well. BOSS detailer is great stuff, the scent is one of my favorites!

When fresh the C3i1 provides great hydrophobicity. I was just trying to use the CSS to boost/reload the C3i1.


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[BlackCarBlues]

I've never used it as a drying aid but that seems like a lot. I normally dry the car and then come back with the CSS, 1-2 sprays per panel, 3-4 for the hood.

That’s how I would use it as a traditional topper and it works great when using it as intended. But I was using it as a rinse aid (not drying aid) so the car was completely soaked. Made me feel like I should use a bit extra so the water on the surface didn’t dilute it too much and also so I got even coverage. Doesn’t really matter since I learned it streaks a lot using that method.


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[BlackCarBlues]

I'd skip the CCS pads and buy the LC Flats. Also, you have a BMW in your avatar. I'd add orange pads to your list, and they just might end up being all that you use.

Also, the FCC finishes down beautifully due to the abrasive technology Griot's uses. So you may or may not need the Perfecting Cream. Test spots are your best friend here.............

Dug this post up. I’ve begun the Spring detail process and so far you are absolutely on the money. Orange LC CCS pad with BOSS Correcting Cream has been working great.

My garage lights are really bright and I can tell a small difference when following that up with BOSS Perfecting Cream on a BOSS Yellow pad… will only really do this step on more obvious parts of the car like fenders, trunk lid, and hood.

I’m also topping the corrected surfaces with Best of Show Wax… definitely different than Ceramic 3-in-1 wax (used for the winter months). Not sure which I prefer.

Unfortunately I’m realizing I have TONS of tiny rock pits all over my hood that you can only see in just the right light. I could probably get them out if I used a quite aggressive pad and compound combo, but I think it’s kind of a lost cause. Maybe someday I’ll just get the hood and front bumper repainted and PPF’d.


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[Coatingsarecrack]

Dug this post up. I’ve begun the Spring detail process and so far you are absolutely on the money. Orange LC CCS pad with BOSS Correcting Cream has been working great.

My garage lights are really bright and I can tell a small difference when following that up with BOSS Perfecting Cream on a BOSS Yellow pad… will only really do this step on more obvious parts of the car like fenders, trunk lid, and hood.

I’m also topping the corrected surfaces with Best of Show Wax… definitely different than Ceramic 3-in-1 wax (used for the winter months). Not sure which I prefer.

Unfortunately I’m realizing I have TONS of tiny rock pits all over my hood that you can only see in just the right light. I could probably get them out if I used a quite aggressive pad and compound combo, but I think it’s kind of a lost cause. Maybe someday I’ll just get the hood and front bumper repainted and PPF’d.


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A good compound polish and then Dr colorchip might be a good solution.


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[BlackCarBlues]

A good compound polish and then Dr colorchip might be a good solution.


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The little pits I’m talking about don’t really need touch up paint, and there are wayyy too many of them — the entire front part of the hood would be all touch up paint. It’s almost like the hood was hit with a very light/sparse sandblasting. I’ll see if I can get a picture.


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[oneheadlite]

The little pits I’m talking about don’t really need touch up paint, and there are wayyy too many of them — the entire front part of the hood would be all touch up paint. It’s almost like the hood was hit with a very light/sparse sandblasting. I’ll see if I can get a picture.

Sounds just like you say, just lots of tiny pits from impacts - the unfortunate tax for soft paint out on real world roads. I see it most often on re-sprayed panels as the aftermarket clear just never seems as hard as the factory, but I would totally believe if your paint is soft that it would happen on OE paint as well.

I always recommend PPF if people have to get front end parts repainted.

Even with paint on the harder side, my car with 27x,000 miles has a lot of this if you look closely as well.

 

[BlackCarBlues]

Sounds just like you say, just lots of tiny pits from impacts - the unfortunate tax for soft paint out on real world roads. I see it most often on re-sprayed panels as the aftermarket clear just never seems as hard as the factory, but I would totally believe if your paint is soft that it would happen on OE paint as well.

I always recommend PPF if people have to get front end parts repainted.

Even with paint on the harder side, my car with 27x,000 miles has a lot of this if you look closely as well.

I do think the hood has been repainted before. Would explain the softness. Haven’t confirmed with a paint thickness gauge, but under intensely bright light, you can tell a difference in the shade of black between the hood and other panels. The hood appears more saturated. Same with the driver’s side front fender.


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[VISITOR]

congrats to nick, and thank you richard along with the whole griot's garage staff all these years for making the brand what it is today! :dblthumb2:

 

[Klasse Act]

I saw this vid drop and watched it right away! I've been a customer for HALF of their existence and regard them as one of the Top 5 brand out there without a doubt!!

They not only have great products, solid products for years but with Nick involved more you can see he's taken the company to the next level with NEW products over the past couple years. In closing as long as the superior customer service is priority ONE and these new, wanted products keep coming out they'll continue their success

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[Klasse Act]

Just tried their new ceramic tire dressing and it's awesome, a true contender for TWHS and Adam's graphene tire dressing ️️

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