2016 Chevrolet SS Phantom Black Metallic Paint

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Blackdevil77

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Does anybody have any experience with the paint on a Phantom Black Metallic Chevrolet SS? Is it as evil as I'm thinking it is? I spent 14 hours 2 weeks ago polishing my car with Menzerna SF3500 and got the paint perfect. I used an IPA AND Carpro eraser after using the polish so I saw the naked paint. I just washed the car today for the 2nd time since polishing it and I'm already seeing some light surface scratching and some haze. I used the 2 bucket wash method and a Carpro merino wool mit. I didn't even dry the car with a microfiber towel. It has 2 coats of Collinite 845 on it so I was able to blow all the water off with a leaf blow. Low a behold, surface scratches everywhere all over the car. Very light, but they are noticeable in the sunlight.

What could I possibly do to prevent the car from scratching? All that hard work, completely shot to s*** so it's very frustrating to say the least. I don't understand what I did wrong or what I could do different. Is this paint just soft as melted butter and I'm doomed, or is there something I can do differently?
 
Put a coating on it. Really, it will help. Your car and My Audi both have hard factory paint but that doesn't mean it won't scratch. Typically it's in the drying phase. I struggled with it after removing the coating I originally had on it but was able to be very careful rinseless washing it but with McKee's 37 being so cost effective, I opted for it and love it. Mine is Brilliant Black which is PURE black and it shows everything. I wish I had one in Phantom Black. My friends S4 is my twin except he has Phantom Black and he doesn't struggle nearly as much.
 
Interesting. I have a 2017 black camaro to polish and put a coating on. Most likely cquartz uk as thats what I have. Going to put 37 on my and girlfriends cars because it s so cheap. Doesnt need to last which i doubt it will.

Never heard of chevy having super soft paint though. My customer wants it mainly to prevent swirls. I am tapdancing the issue and using word reduce. So I would hate to have this black all scratched up after I polish and coat. Interested what others will say on your paint
 
pdqgp said:
Put a coating on it. Really, it will help. Your car and My Audi both have hard factory paint but that doesn't mean it won't scratch. Typically it's in the drying phase. I struggled with it after removing the coating I originally had on it but was able to be very careful rinseless washing it but with McKee's 37 being so cost effective, I opted for it and love it. Mine is Brilliant Black which is PURE black and it shows everything. I wish I had one in Phantom Black. My friends S4 is my twin except he has Phantom Black and he doesn't struggle nearly as much.
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Usually it is the drying phase, which is what blows my mind. I dried the whole car both times I washed it, without ANY physical contact. All done with a blower. What is the hardest coating available? If it preserves my hard work somewhat, than I agree with you, it's worth it.

Craddock said:
Interesting. I have a 2017 black camaro to polish and put a coating on. Most likely cquartz uk as thats what I have. Going to put 37 on my and girlfriends cars because it s so cheap. Doesnt need to last which i doubt it will.

Never heard of chevy having super soft paint though. My customer wants it mainly to prevent swirls. I am tapdancing the issue and using word reduce. So I would hate to have this black all scratched up after I polish and coat. Interested what others will say on your paint
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Lately GM paint has been insanely hard. I don't think the paint on my car is typical GM paint like on the cars we have here in the states. The Chevrolet SS is basically a rebaged Holden Commodore and is assembled and painted in Australia. I remember reading somewhere that the phantom black metallic paint on my car is on the softer side. Made it very easy for correcting. I did the whole car with SF3500 and it got out damn near everything rather easily. But maintaining it is a #####, to say the least.
 
Blackdevil77 said:
Does anybody have any experience with the paint on a Phantom Black Metallic Chevrolet SS? Is it as evil as I'm thinking it is? I spent 14 hours 2 weeks ago polishing my car with Menzerna SF3500 and got the paint perfect. I used an IPA AND Carpro eraser after using the polish so I saw the naked paint. I just washed the car today for the 2nd time since polishing it and I'm already seeing some light surface scratching and some haze. I used the 2 bucket wash method and a Carpro merino wool mit. I didn't even dry the car with a microfiber towel. It has 2 coats of Collinite 845 on it so I was able to blow all the water off with a leaf blow. Low a behold, surface scratches everywhere all over the car. Very light, but they are noticeable in the sunlight.

What could I possibly do to prevent the car from scratching? All that hard work, completely shot to s*** so it's very frustrating to say the least. I don't understand what I did wrong or what I could do different. Is this paint just soft as melted butter and I'm doomed, or is there something I can do differently?
Click to expand...
What kind of pad did you use to polish car?
 
Blackdevil77 said:
Does anybody have any experience with the paint on a Phantom Black Metallic Chevrolet SS? Is it as evil as I'm thinking it is? I spent 14 hours 2 weeks ago polishing my car with Menzerna SF3500 and got the paint perfect. I used an IPA AND Carpro eraser after using the polish so I saw the naked paint. I just washed the car today for the 2nd time since polishing it and I'm already seeing some light surface scratching and some haze. I used the 2 bucket wash method and a Carpro merino wool mit. I didn't even dry the car with a microfiber towel. It has 2 coats of Collinite 845 on it so I was able to blow all the water off with a leaf blow. Low a behold, surface scratches everywhere all over the car. Very light, but they are noticeable in the sunlight.

What could I possibly do to prevent the car from scratching? All that hard work, completely shot to s*** so it's very frustrating to say the least. I don't understand what I did wrong or what I could do different. Is this paint just soft as melted butter and I'm doomed, or is there something I can do differently?
Click to expand...

The first reply said it best - put a coating on it. What's the hardest one? My opinion is Opti Coat of course.

On another note, either you are causing the light swirl marks by not washing it properly, or (which is what I think) you are washing away the fillers from the Menzerna product.
 
GSKR said:
What kind of pad did you use to polish car?
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I used a white Lake Country hybrid pad.

tdekany said:
The first reply said it best - put a coating on it. What's the hardest one? My opinion is Opti Coat of course.

On another note, either you are causing the light swirl marks by not washing it properly, or (which is what I think) you are washing away the fillers from the Menzerna product.
Click to expand...

I thought the Menzerna SF3500 doesn't have any fillers in it. It says right on the bottle that it contains no fillers. Regardless, I still did an IPA wipe down followed by Carpro eraser. I did just get my car back from getting headers installed. Unless it's something they did, then it must be from washing. I have no idea what else I can do during my washing process to be easier on the paint.

I think I am gonna go with a coating.
 
I think you got false correction.which means by the eye looks good but under lights and some iPa to ensure the swirls and micro scratches are gone.That polish is to be used with a soft foam pad,therefore you probably didn't do much as far as a minor correction.Next time src blackfire compound and polish work great on that paint.Get some good lighting or a hand held light,polish one panel at a time and inspect.If good move on to the next.Buy some carpro eraser.After 14 hrs sorry to hear that.
 
If you think that you can correct a black Chevy paint with that combo without filling, I'd like to sell you a red bridge in San Francisco.:joking:

When I worked for 3D we did extensive testings on all the top products. Some took SEVERAL wipe downs with 100% alcohol to get rid of what ever was filling. You do not need to take my word for it, you can waste a lot of time and energy and figure it out on your own, but DO NOT use german polishes under coatings. Because next time we hear from you, it will be about how the coating you were using didn't last. :props:

Most coating come with or the company has a final polish that is recommended prior to application of the coating. Use THAT product to correct and final polish.

Btw, that paint (or ANY black finish) should receive a 2 step process.

GL!!!!

Blackdevil77 said:
I used a white Lake Country hybrid pad. I thought the Menzerna SF3500 doesn't have any fillers in it. It says right on the bottle that it contains no fillers. Regardless, I still did an IPA wipe down followed by Carpro eraser. I did just get my car back from getting headers installed. Unless it's something they did, then it must be from washing. I have no idea what else I can do during my washing process to be easier on the paint. I think I am gonna go with a coating.
Click to expand...
 
GSKR said:
I think you got false correction.which means by the eye looks good but under lights and some iPa to ensure the swirls and micro scratches are gone.That polish is to be used with a soft foam pad,therefore you probably didn't do much as far as a minor correction.Next time src blackfire compound and polish work great on that paint.Get some good lighting or a hand held light,polish one panel at a time and inspect.If good move on to the next.Buy some carpro eraser.After 14 hrs sorry to hear that.
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That's what's confusing me. I have carpro eraser and used it. After the first wash, it was fine as well. I have correction lights as well. Maybe I should have used FG400 first. I did a test spot with SF3500 and it looked great when I did it. I took my time, doing one panel at a time, each panel broken down into small sections, and after each panel, I did an IPA wipe down, followed by Carpro eraser. The results looked real promising.



 
tdekany said:
If you think that you can correct a black Chevy paint with that combo without filling, I'd like to sell you a red bridge in San Francisco.:joking:

When I worked for 3D we did extensive testings on all the top products. Some took SEVERAL wipe downs with 100% alcohol to get rid of what ever was filling. You do not need to take my word for it, you can waste a lot of time and energy and figure it out on your own, but DO NOT use german polishes under coatings. Because next time we hear from you, it will be about how the coating you were using didn't last. :props:

Most coating come with or the company has a final polish that is recommended prior to application of the coating. Use THAT product to correct and final polish.

Btw, that paint (or ANY black finish) should receive a 2 step process.

GL!!!!
Click to expand...

So basically, the Menzerna stuff does have fillers in it.

For coating prep, I'd probably use M205. I sealed this one with Collinite 845
 
tdekany said:
If you think that you can correct a black Chevy paint with that combo without filling, I'd like to sell you a red bridge in San Francisco.:joking:

When I worked for 3D we did extensive testings on all the top products. Some took SEVERAL wipe downs with 100% alcohol to get rid of what ever was filling. You do not need to take my word for it, you can waste a lot of time and energy and figure it out on your own, but DO NOT use german polishes under coatings. Because next time we hear from you, it will be about how the coating you were using didn't last. :props:

Most coating come with or the company has a final polish that is recommended prior to application of the coating. Use THAT product to correct and final polish.

Btw, that paint (or ANY black finish) should receive a 2 step process.

GL!!!!
Click to expand...

Why would you need to two step a paint job with light marring? Do a test spot to see if you really need to compound and polish or just polish. Lest agressive first. Everything is paint condition dependent.
 
205 on a micro cutting pad is fail proof or fg400.car looks awesome.Black Fire src is great as well,good luck on the car beautiful!
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
Why would you need to two step a paint job with light marring? Do a test spot to see if you really need to compound and polish or just polish. Lest agressive first. Everything is paint condition dependent.
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Because you want the best possible gloss under your protection. I have only been doing paint correction professionally for 15 years, so I may not know everything, but I will produce a glossier finish with my 2 step process than ANY 1 step job I don't care who does it.

Now it is possible that your standards are lower than mine, and in that case, you will be happy with just a finishing step. I want the best possible finish. I have a feeling that you do as well.
 
tdekany said:
What else do you have besides 205?
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M105. Works well, but my God is it touchy.

rlmccarty2000 said:
Why would you need to two step a paint job with light marring? Do a test spot to see if you really need to compound and polish or just polish. Lest agressive first. Everything is paint condition dependent.
Click to expand...

That's what I did. It had very light marring and light surface scratches. Same thing now, light marring and some hazing.

GSKR said:
205 on a micro cutting pad is fail proof or fg400.car looks awesome.Black Fire src is great as well,good luck on the car beautiful!
Click to expand...

I have FG400. What micro cutting pad do you recommend? Meguiars?

Thank you!
 
What coating will you be purchasing? Do you know yet?

Blackdevil77 said:
M105. Works well, but my God is it touchy.



That's what I did. It had very light marring and light surface scratches. Same thing now, light marring and some hazing.



I have FG400. What micro cutting pad do you recommend? Meguiars?

Thank you!
Click to expand...
 
tdekany said:
The first reply said it best - put a coating on it. What's the hardest one? My opinion is Opti Coat of course.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately opti-coat is no longer available as it is now gloss coat through the consumer market. Unless the op decides to go with opti-coat pro and/or pro +.


rlmccarty2000 said:
Why would you need to two step a paint job with light marring? Do a test spot to see if you really need to compound and polish or just polish. Lest agressive first. Everything is paint condition dependent.
Click to expand...

I would agree with this. No sense in removing more clear than what is needed.
 
tdekany said:
What coating will you be purchasing? Do you know yet?
Click to expand...

I was gonna go with Cquartz. I have experience with that coating already. Anything you recommend over Cquartz?

Would I be able to use FG400 and follow that with 205 to prep for a coating? FG400 is just so much nicer to work with than 105. If the conditions aren't exactly perfect with 105, it dries out after 2 section passes. That's with priming the pad as per the KBM and using 2 drops of product on the pad.
 
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