- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks for the suggestions, any help is appreciated. I did see on one of the videos from Mike Phillips where he recommends marking the backing plate as well. I'll definitely do this as I think it would help.
New at detailing & first time using a polisher (PorterCable 7424XP)...Need some help w/ pads & Polish
- Thread starter Poohbear
- Start date
Thanks for the suggestions, any help is appreciated. I did see on one of the videos from Mike Phillips where he recommends marking the backing plate as well. I'll definitely do this as I think it would help.
RippyD
Active member
- Jan 24, 2016
- 1,258
- 4
It's critical. Nearly impossible to tell when it's spinning or not without a mark. It will stop, and you'll quickly learn when and why.
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 3,130
- 0
As for towels. I myself have some good ones, but no doubt fall short of what some folks here have in their collections.
Good sources for just regular decent run of the mill microfiber towels can be Walmart, Sam's Club, Costco, and the various auto parts stores.
Don't necessarily discount them as garbage, even though they aren't the revered "made in korea" high end towels at $5-$8 and up a pop.
I have the Gold Plush's, I have the Carpro Boas, yeah, very nice, but you sure don't want to walk these towels through the bottom portions of your vehicle when dirty, door jambs, trunk-hood lids, engine, or wheels, unless the wheels might be fresh brand new replacements out of their boxes.
Or not unless you are so anal, so wealthy, or your vehicle is a Bentley, and you will spare no cost.
For such "grimey" jobs, use the lesser towels, which you won't mind getting really filthy, or destroying them in the process with the nasty jobs.
Cheaper Cotton or Cotton-Poly can be used for the nasty stuff.
As for the ultra expensive towels, use the pretty decent ones for final processes, like wiping off your finishing polishes, or for removing your waxes, sealants, or paint coatings. It's good to have a few on hand, and reserve them for the final critical work.
Yeah, some of the paint coatings, due to their make-up, and turning rock hard when drying might ruin a good towel or two. But, when doing coatings, you sometimes only get one shot at getting it right, and it then doesn't pay to cut corners when smoothing-leveling such expensive paint coatings.
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks. I'll shop around and see if I find any deals.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Autogeekonline mobile app
dlc95
Well-known member
- May 18, 2013
- 6,062
- 26
Here's what I love using:
1. Cutting: Meguiar's Ultimate Compound + Green Buff and Shine "Polishing" pads. I'd get at least four pads. I've been running my PC 7424 (1st gen, non "xp") on spped 4.5 - light pressure. Usually four section passes. This combination picks up a lot of paint, and can clog pretty quick. I start with four small dabs of product around the circumfrence, and reload with anywhere from one, two, or three dabs.
2. Polishing: Meguiar's Ultimate Polish + Blue Buff and Shine pads. Two pads should cover ya, but I still carry four with me. Speed 4, two section passes, light pressure and I'm done. I start with three drops of product, and reload with one or two.
3. Wax (sealant): Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax + Red Buff and Shine pad. I only use one per vehicle, but carry two. I start with a thin ring of product initially, and spread ot as far as it will go. Reload with two or three small dabs. Be sure to apply VERY thin. Remove. Done.
I haven't used thin pads, and don't see a need to. I never have issues with my pads stalling. Use the correct technique, and you'll be fine.
I like the Meguiar's system because it's simple, effective, easy to obtain, and exceeds expectations. Overall, I find the system much easier to use than Menzerna, or Rupes, but that's just me... I'll also substitute products from their Professional Mirror Glaze line, specifically M100 compound, M205 polish, and M21 sealant.
You could also pick up the Meguiar's Dual Action Microfiber Correction System and be done with all the drama. It absolutely kills with a PC 7424xp.
1. Cutting: Meguiar's Ultimate Compound + Green Buff and Shine "Polishing" pads. I'd get at least four pads. I've been running my PC 7424 (1st gen, non "xp") on spped 4.5 - light pressure. Usually four section passes. This combination picks up a lot of paint, and can clog pretty quick. I start with four small dabs of product around the circumfrence, and reload with anywhere from one, two, or three dabs.
2. Polishing: Meguiar's Ultimate Polish + Blue Buff and Shine pads. Two pads should cover ya, but I still carry four with me. Speed 4, two section passes, light pressure and I'm done. I start with three drops of product, and reload with one or two.
3. Wax (sealant): Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax + Red Buff and Shine pad. I only use one per vehicle, but carry two. I start with a thin ring of product initially, and spread ot as far as it will go. Reload with two or three small dabs. Be sure to apply VERY thin. Remove. Done.
I haven't used thin pads, and don't see a need to. I never have issues with my pads stalling. Use the correct technique, and you'll be fine.
I like the Meguiar's system because it's simple, effective, easy to obtain, and exceeds expectations. Overall, I find the system much easier to use than Menzerna, or Rupes, but that's just me... I'll also substitute products from their Professional Mirror Glaze line, specifically M100 compound, M205 polish, and M21 sealant.
You could also pick up the Meguiar's Dual Action Microfiber Correction System and be done with all the drama. It absolutely kills with a PC 7424xp.
RippyD
Active member
- Jan 24, 2016
- 1,258
- 4
I'm going to give an opinion on towels with very limited experience. Once you get your paint looking good, you want to do everything you can to keep it from getting marred or scratched. Cheap towels are not the way to go.
Many months ago somebody here told me my bag 'o towels from Costco would scratch my paint. Pffftt - no way this could happen. The reply in my head was "What a bunch of nerdy idiots. You dorks go spend $5 each on a bunch of towels and use special 'towel soap' on them. Suckers."
Yeah... no. Costco towels left some visible marks in my 4Runner paint. They're not bad towels, but I was removing polish and using some pressure. Better towels and the problem went away. Admittedly this car has soft paint. But it's not just the scratching. It's how well they work. How much soapy water they hold when washing (if you was with them.) How well they dry. You just have to get a few and see for yourself.
Cheap towels are great for wheels, trunk, engine, and interiors. I wish I'd listened to the more experienced people and not put them on my paint. I can't tell you what the best towels are. But I would encourage you to spend a little more on some good MF. You can start with a few and then see how it goes. (Evil grin, because I'm pretty sure I know how it will go.)
Many months ago somebody here told me my bag 'o towels from Costco would scratch my paint. Pffftt - no way this could happen. The reply in my head was "What a bunch of nerdy idiots. You dorks go spend $5 each on a bunch of towels and use special 'towel soap' on them. Suckers."
Yeah... no. Costco towels left some visible marks in my 4Runner paint. They're not bad towels, but I was removing polish and using some pressure. Better towels and the problem went away. Admittedly this car has soft paint. But it's not just the scratching. It's how well they work. How much soapy water they hold when washing (if you was with them.) How well they dry. You just have to get a few and see for yourself.
Cheap towels are great for wheels, trunk, engine, and interiors. I wish I'd listened to the more experienced people and not put them on my paint. I can't tell you what the best towels are. But I would encourage you to spend a little more on some good MF. You can start with a few and then see how it goes. (Evil grin, because I'm pretty sure I know how it will go.)
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 3,130
- 0
I won't argue that better and softer towels will instill less damage on the vehicle.
That the goal is to do the least amount of harm when washing, and other processes. While a paint finish will get dirty, it would never get scratched, or swirled if it wasn't touched.
I commonly see here in the desert, so many barely even wash their vehicles, and when they do, it's at the swirl-o-matic car washes. Applying a paint, protectant, it's like "what's that"? And it's the sole reason why I see 3-5 year old vehicles here with gross clear coat failures due to such negligence.
Mike P. just today demo'ing a nice drying towel, and here it is. Definitely have some good soft wash mitts, and drying towels on hand, minimum a two bucket wash with grit guards. Getting in better cleaning habits goes a long way.
Big Blue Microfiber Drying Towel, 26 x 18 inches
That the goal is to do the least amount of harm when washing, and other processes. While a paint finish will get dirty, it would never get scratched, or swirled if it wasn't touched.
I commonly see here in the desert, so many barely even wash their vehicles, and when they do, it's at the swirl-o-matic car washes. Applying a paint, protectant, it's like "what's that"? And it's the sole reason why I see 3-5 year old vehicles here with gross clear coat failures due to such negligence.
Mike P. just today demo'ing a nice drying towel, and here it is. Definitely have some good soft wash mitts, and drying towels on hand, minimum a two bucket wash with grit guards. Getting in better cleaning habits goes a long way.
Big Blue Microfiber Drying Towel, 26 x 18 inches
The products you ordered will be great and will do the job have fun.
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into this towel.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Autogeekonline mobile app
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks, appreciate the help. Can't wait to get my package. LOL
- Thread starter
- #32
Thanks, definitely will be using his videos as reference.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Autogeekonline mobile app
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Saw this thread pop up over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend, looks like all the OPs questions were thoroughly answered....
Just add for anyone reading this into the future...
Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation
Here's a quick video that show how and why to mark your backing plate to see and monitor pad rotation while doing any correction or polishing steps.
DON'T LOOSE THE COMPRESSION WASHER!
The Compression Washer
While this video features the Porter Cable 7424XP the tips and techniques shared will work with ANY orbital polisher...
How to Properly Use the Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher Updated!
Just add for anyone reading this into the future...
Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation
Here's a quick video that show how and why to mark your backing plate to see and monitor pad rotation while doing any correction or polishing steps.
DON'T LOOSE THE COMPRESSION WASHER!
The Compression Washer
While this video features the Porter Cable 7424XP the tips and techniques shared will work with ANY orbital polisher...
How to Properly Use the Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher Updated!
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Most important....
How To Do a Test Spot
A Test Spot is where you take the products, pads, tools and your best technique and buff one small section, usually on a horizontal panel, to test out these things to see if they'll create the results you want, hope for and dream about in some cases.
If your choice of products, pads, tools and technique works to remove the defects and restore the finish to your expectations, then theoretically you should be able to duplicate the same process to the rest of the vehicle and create the same results.
If your choice of products, pads, tools and your technique doesn't create the results you want, hope for and dream about then you can come to the forum and post what you're seeing and we'll do our best to help you tweak your technique, substitute different products, pads and/or tools to see you through to success.
And also important.... how to do section passes...
How To Do a Test Spot
A Test Spot is where you take the products, pads, tools and your best technique and buff one small section, usually on a horizontal panel, to test out these things to see if they'll create the results you want, hope for and dream about in some cases.
If your choice of products, pads, tools and technique works to remove the defects and restore the finish to your expectations, then theoretically you should be able to duplicate the same process to the rest of the vehicle and create the same results.
If your choice of products, pads, tools and your technique doesn't create the results you want, hope for and dream about then you can come to the forum and post what you're seeing and we'll do our best to help you tweak your technique, substitute different products, pads and/or tools to see you through to success.
And also important.... how to do section passes...
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
More...
After about 4 section passes most products are going to become clear films on the surface, if you over use any product then you'll still see lots of product on the paint, so be careful not to over use or under use product.
See this article,
Wet Buffing Technique
Wet film behind your path-of-travel
Originally Posted by fordlexus 
It seemed like it was hard to buff off the megs with a MF cloth when i was done even the lotion. So i wasnt sure if i worked it too long or vice versa.
Meguiar's M02 can be a little gummy to wipe off if worked too long with a DA on paint so watch to make sure you don't go to a dry buff and when you go to wipe it or any stubborn product off take little swipes off instead of trying to wipe off huge chunks, your microfiber towel will have more leverage over the hold the product has on the paint making wiping off any product easier. (I show wiping techniques in all our classes)
Originally Posted by fordlexus
I believe im using the right amount of product, i prime the pad with product first, then put the amount shown on the videos on the pad.
If you prime your pad first then you don't need to place a circle pattern or x-pattern of product on the face of the pad, just use 3-4 pea sized or dime sized drops or dollops of product.
See this article,
How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher
Excerpt...
Adding "Working Product" to the primed pad
Some people will recommend 3 to 4 pea size drops of product as the proper amount of product to use and this can be correct for concentrated products or working small sections and if you follow this advice make sure you are not under-lubricating the surface being worked.
Pea size drops of product
For some products and paint conditions, you may want more product on the surface working for you. Here's an example of dime size drops of product.
Dime size drops of product
Originally Posted by fordlexus
Is one application of product on the pad good for one whole section pass or do i need to add more as im going? Thanks in advance.
After working a section, wipe the residue off and inspect the paint. If the defects are removed to your satisfaction then you can move on. If you still see some room for improvement, then,
The most important thing you can do is a Test Spot, that is test out your "process" to one section of paint and make sure you can make this one section of paint look GREAT!
If you can, then repeat the process to the entire car. If you can't, then come back here and tell us what you're experiencing and we'll see you through to success. (kind of like what you're doing now)
Also see this article, I posted it yesterday...
DA Polisher Articles - Help for Newbies to Machine Polishing
Here's an excerpt...
Removing swirls and polishing to a high gloss
Typical speeds for most procedures using most DA Polishers
Also, mark the back of your backing plate with a black felt marker like you see below as this will help you to see when the pad is rotating or just vibrating. When you're trying to remove swirls you need the pad rotating.
After about 4 section passes most products are going to become clear films on the surface, if you over use any product then you'll still see lots of product on the paint, so be careful not to over use or under use product.
See this article,
Wet Buffing Technique
Wet film behind your path-of-travel
It seemed like it was hard to buff off the megs with a MF cloth when i was done even the lotion. So i wasnt sure if i worked it too long or vice versa.
Meguiar's M02 can be a little gummy to wipe off if worked too long with a DA on paint so watch to make sure you don't go to a dry buff and when you go to wipe it or any stubborn product off take little swipes off instead of trying to wipe off huge chunks, your microfiber towel will have more leverage over the hold the product has on the paint making wiping off any product easier. (I show wiping techniques in all our classes)
I believe im using the right amount of product, i prime the pad with product first, then put the amount shown on the videos on the pad.
If you prime your pad first then you don't need to place a circle pattern or x-pattern of product on the face of the pad, just use 3-4 pea sized or dime sized drops or dollops of product.
See this article,
How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher
Excerpt...
Adding "Working Product" to the primed pad
Some people will recommend 3 to 4 pea size drops of product as the proper amount of product to use and this can be correct for concentrated products or working small sections and if you follow this advice make sure you are not under-lubricating the surface being worked.
Pea size drops of product
For some products and paint conditions, you may want more product on the surface working for you. Here's an example of dime size drops of product.
Dime size drops of product
Is one application of product on the pad good for one whole section pass or do i need to add more as im going? Thanks in advance.
After working a section, wipe the residue off and inspect the paint. If the defects are removed to your satisfaction then you can move on. If you still see some room for improvement, then,
- Repeat the process
- Switch to a more aggressive pad
- Switch to a more aggressive product
The most important thing you can do is a Test Spot, that is test out your "process" to one section of paint and make sure you can make this one section of paint look GREAT!
If you can, then repeat the process to the entire car. If you can't, then come back here and tell us what you're experiencing and we'll see you through to success. (kind of like what you're doing now)
Also see this article, I posted it yesterday...
DA Polisher Articles - Help for Newbies to Machine Polishing
Here's an excerpt...
Removing swirls and polishing to a high gloss
Typical speeds for most procedures using most DA Polishers
5-6 Speed setting for removing swirls
4-5 Speed setting for polishing after swirls are removed
3-4 Speed setting for machine applying a wax.
For your test spot I always recommend using a Tape-Line when doing your testing as it will make it very easy for your eyes to detect changes, which usually mean improvements in the test area and gauge how effectively your pads, products, tool and techniques are working on this particular paint system.4-5 Speed setting for polishing after swirls are removed
3-4 Speed setting for machine applying a wax.
Also, mark the back of your backing plate with a black felt marker like you see below as this will help you to see when the pad is rotating or just vibrating. When you're trying to remove swirls you need the pad rotating.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Also....
Read this before starting...
DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide
It will help to prevent you from making all the common mistakes most people make their first time...
Read this before starting...
DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide
It will help to prevent you from making all the common mistakes most people make their first time...
Thank you Mark and Visitor!
- Thread starter
- #38
Saw this thread pop up over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend, looks like all the OPs questions were thoroughly answered....
Just add for anyone reading this into the future...
Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation
Here's a quick video that show how and why to mark your backing plate to see and monitor pad rotation while doing any correction or polishing steps.
DON'T LOOSE THE COMPRESSION WASHER!
While this video features the Porter Cable 7424XP the tips and techniques shared will work with ANY orbital polisher...
Thanks Mike. I appreciate your help and videos.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
You're more than welcome. That's what we here at Autogeek are here for collectively and that's education and customer support.
:dblthumb2:
Paul A.
New member
- Dec 21, 2007
- 5,276
- 1
Mike's articles are great "refreshers" for me also. I think I have read every single one however i find myself reading them again and again as reminders for proper technique. As I rock and roll along in this passionate pursuit I certainly fall prey to wandering a bit from proper procedure. I think it's a human fault to mentally wander and drift away into personal habits by mid job...sometimes the clock is ticking and I wonder if i'll finish this thing on time! I'll hit the ole reset button and go through Mike's recommendations.
This thread came at one of those times. Pad priming and the amount of product used, for me, varies by product. The basic concepts needed a reset from the first time i read this stuff over. Not to learn it the first time but to remind myself to stop the habitual tangent of deviation.
Thanks Mike!
Poohbear, practice Mike's advice. And then practice and/or reread it again.
This thread came at one of those times. Pad priming and the amount of product used, for me, varies by product. The basic concepts needed a reset from the first time i read this stuff over. Not to learn it the first time but to remind myself to stop the habitual tangent of deviation.
Thanks Mike!
Poohbear, practice Mike's advice. And then practice and/or reread it again.