McKee's 37 Paint Coating Not Resistant to Salt?

So contaminants don't fall in the "anything else" category stated in the literature for the coating.

It says anything else will not adhere to it.

Also says it's guaranteed to keep your vehicle cleaner than any other wax, sealant or coating available.

So the OP with the 845 on the other vehicle driven in other conditions must be seeing things ?

I don't see any real data or facts just "come on you still need to top it, clean it with items not mentioned in the literature, that's salt or beet juice and those don't count. "

Like I said i WANT a coating to work. I do in the way like mckees states it works. Water just takes dirt and anything else with it right off the surface.

I know I need to wash my car I'm not that unrealistic. I can wash the car multiple times a day even if I wanted, I have.

But sure is a lot of claims and hype. I would rather it just say it's a coating. It will be glossy. Maybe not the most maybe more than you are used to. You will have to maintain it more or the same as any product but the base protection is better than x y z based on twenty people we had test the coating side by side against popular wax C




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
MattPersman said:
So contaminants don't fall in the "anything else" category stated in the literature for the coating.

It says anything else will not adhere to it.

Also says it's guaranteed to keep your vehicle cleaner than any other wax, sealant or coating available.

So the OP with the 845 on the other vehicle driven in other conditions must be seeing things ?

I don't see any real data or facts just "come on you still need to top it, clean it with items not mentioned in the literature, that's salt or beet juice and those don't count. "
Click to expand...

Hey, I think we were all just trying to help. Maybe the coating failed. Maybe it wasn't a good application. Maybe in this instance wax works better for shedding this particular contaminant. Find something you like and use it often.
 
DARK HORSE said:
Chad, I know you mentioned Feynlab Ceramic, but have you experimented with or used Feynlab's self healing coating?
Click to expand...

Not yet. I requested more info on it though. Seems to be very similar to the self-healing Nanohide coating I have though. Solvents have a very similar smell too. I like the idea of self-healing, just need to see how in-depth the application is.
 
I've been traveling for work wasn't able to resume the conversation. I had no idea this topic would generate so much discussion when I stared the thread. I appreciate everyone's inputs.

Setec Astronomy said:
Hey, I think we were all just trying to help. Maybe the coating failed. Maybe it wasn't a good application. Maybe in this instance wax works better for shedding this particular contaminant. Find something you like and use it often.
Click to expand...

At this point I don't think it's a failed application since the areas that are not hit by salt, are doing great. Ease of cleaning, good water behavior, and a great look indicate it's holding up fine. I'm beginning to think the coating doesn't react well to the salt dropped on the roads. It's either holding on to the salt and not releasing it, or the salt is breaking it down. Either is plausible since I observed a very distinct line on the sides of the vehicle.

Past experience has shown 845 to consistently hold up, and Klasse SG as well. I think for the environment my cars encounter, a more traditional sealant is going to be a better choice. The good thing is the huge variety to try out!
 
Lolz at anyone selling anything that "emulsifies salt". Salt is quite water soluble. You don't need special products to get rid of it - it easily dissolves in water.

RaskyR1 said:
What do you mean?
Click to expand...

Forgive me....

213a62697753a3c5914ed322fe1ea521.jpg
 
So the answer is just buy more products and use them more frequently ?

$$$$$$

It goes from a theory of this coating is better and longer lasting than any sealant or wax. Mckees also says better than any other coating too. To no real answer and just use more products more often to maintain beading.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
swanicyouth said:
Lolz at anyone selling anything that "emulsifies salt". Salt is quite water soluble. You don't need special products to get rid of it - it easily dissolves in water.[/IMG]
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. Most of the products I see targeting the need are for marine applications where the salt and scale build up is far different than road salts from winter.

I don't have any issue remove road salt and debris with regular products sold here every day. I'll do a small test when one of the cars is coated again. Before pics and after with just simply using Wolfgang Uber Rinseless. I'll soak the panel, let it dwell, then rinse it. That's all. It will likely leave some road grime but the salt crystals should be gone.
 
This truck is used for for spraying beet juice on the streets of Chicago.
bfea38920436af96bf2ba0cbe7615c55.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A few have recommended for ultimate protection to apply a spray wax after each wash to help protect your car better or protect your coating. The thing is, I think few of us are 100% convinced these coatings are holding up as they are supposed to. So, adding a spray wax is a bit demoralizing, because it makes you feel like - "since I'm using a spray wax frequently anyway, why not just use a traditional LSP and be done with it?"

If someone is using a coating, eye are expecting it to be significantly more durable than a traditional LSP - just as the manufacturers of these products claim. And, since coating failure *seems* to be a reality, once the coating is "contaminated" with a spray wax - I believe it makes the user wonder if the coating is still even there. And, if not - what was the point of using it???

Despite municipalities using beet juice and alternate salts to melt snow, I believe the majority of stuff still used to "salt roads" is still NaCl. Mechanistically, I am not sure how NaCl erodes a coating - or if it even is NaCl causing winter damage to LSPs.

You have to realize, often during winter in the NE - cars are filthy. Part of it is "salt", but part of it is just the volume of liquid suspended on the roads constantly melting and constantly bathing the lower panels of your car in filthy water. The roads seem to never be dry.

We see "salt" on the paint because it is white. So salt often gets blamed as the culprit. But in reality, cars are just more filthy in the winter. I believe, that is the actual culprit. If anyone knows the mechanism how a brine solution erodes a coating - please post it.

Also, regardless what type of "salt" it is. It's all highly water soluble. That is how "salt" works to de-ice the roads. It has to be water soluble. Some of the salt has to melt into a brine solution, to decrease the freezing temperature of water - limiting snow/ice. I don't believe any "special" cleaners help or are necessary to remove "salt". HOWEVER, stronger soaps or specialized cleaners may help just to clean a very dirty winter car that has been bathed in months of wet road filth liquid.
 
swanicyouth said:
A few have recommended for ultimate protection to apply a spray wax after each wash to help protect your car better or protect your coating. The thing is, I think few of us are 100% convinced these coatings are holding up as they are supposed to. So, adding a spray wax is a bit demoralizing, because it makes you feel like - "since I'm using a spray wax frequently anyway, why not just use a traditional LSP and be done with it?"

If someone is using a coating, eye are expecting it to be significantly more durable than a traditional LSP - just as the manufacturers of these products claim. And, since coating failure *seems* to be a reality, once the coating is "contaminated" with a spray wax - I believe it makes the user wonder if the coating is still even there. And, if not - what was the point of using it???

Despite municipalities using beet juice and alternate salts to melt snow, I believe the majority of stuff still used to "salt roads" is still NaCl. Mechanistically, I am not sure how NaCl erodes a coating - or if it even is NaCl causing winter damage to LSPs.

You have to realize, often during winter in the NE - cars are filthy. Part of it is "salt", but part of it is just the volume of liquid suspended on the roads constantly melting and constantly bathing the lower panels of your car in filthy water. The roads seem to never be dry.

We see "salt" on the paint because it is white. So salt often gets blamed as the culprit. But in reality, cars are just more filthy in the winter. I believe, that is the actual culprit. If anyone knows the mechanism how a brine solution erodes a coating - please post it.

Also, regardless what type of "salt" it is. It's all highly water soluble. That is how "salt" works to de-ice the roads. It has to be water soluble. Some of the salt has to melt into a brine solution, to decrease the freezing temperature of water - limiting snow/ice. I don't believe any "special" cleaners help or are necessary to remove "salt". HOWEVER, stronger soaps or specialized cleaners may help just to clean a very dirty winter car that has been bathed in months of wet road filth liquid.
Click to expand...

Well put. IMHO, I believe that is the truth.
 
I am in Michigan and both cars have McKees coating and it seems clingy to me. This year seems the salt is sticking to it more than years past. I also don't like uber rinse less with the 37 and salt combo, it is streaky. I recently used my D114 and turned out nice. I love uber in the non snowy climate, just seems to streak in the cold and salt weather. I am a no pro by any means just a weekend warrior.
 
ct18 said:
I am in Michigan and both cars have McKees coating and it seems clingy to me. This year seems the salt is sticking to it more than years past. I also don't like uber rinse less with the 37 and salt combo, it is streaky. I recently used my D114 and turned out nice. I love uber in the non snowy climate, just seems to streak in the cold and salt weather. I am a no pro by any means just a weekend warrior.
Click to expand...

Do they use beet juice up there? One of the properties to it is that its sticky and helps prevent the salt from bouncing and getting kicked up by cars. I also imagine that it will sling if fresh though. Yuck.
 
We use more calcium chloride than beet juice but i believe it is just as stinky.
 
swanicyouth said:
Lolz at anyone selling anything that "emulsifies salt". Salt is quite water soluble. You don't need special products to get rid of it - it easily dissolves in water.
Click to expand...


it does have a clinging sheeting property I don't get from ONR, D114 or plain ol water

salt%20away_zpsfr0stehs.jpg
 
RaskyR1 said:
There has been a lot of discussion about this recently so I'm doing some testing on my own. One things for sure, just because the beading has fallen of doesn't mean the coating has necessarily failed. In my area they use both rock salt on the roads as well as a brine solution (magnesium chloride). It's believed that the liquid chemicals are sticking to the paint and may require some form of chemical decon to release it and bring back the hydrophobic properties. I would suggest IronX, TarX, and possibly Optimum MDR, as that is what Optimum is suggesting you use.

Regular weekly washing seems to be keeping it in check so far on my wife's car, which is wearing OCP+. I did go 2 weeks without washing it once and the lowers fell off a little bit, but still beading well. There is some light tar on it now too so that could be the reason for the trailing off of the beading. If you go several weeks without washing its seems this will definitely kill the beading....Zach has observed the same I believe.

I set up a test on my truck last weekend with 8 coatings and one durable wax to see which stays looking cleaner, which releases dirt the best, and to see if there is a difference on how the winter chemicals affect their beading.

Click to expand...

After last winter which coating did you find held up the best to the salt. I have been using Klasse Paint sealant topped with pinnacle royal sovereign wax for about 10 years and want to switch to a ceramic coating if it can truly last 2-3 years without having to clay and polish in the spring after the winter chemicals. Many ceramics say they last 2-3 years but I am skeptical on that in northern states.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top