SONAX Fallout Remover - How to chemically decontaminate paint before restoring a show car finish by Mike Phillips

TMQ said:
I'm just guessing here but this is what I'm thinking about.
A couple of things comes to mind.

1. Getting iron particles in pads---may not get all iron particles cleaned out 100% via wash
2. Iron particles may be in deeper than the amount of clear you will take off via buffing/polishing.
3. And lastly, scratching paint while buffing. Iron particles will act like sandpaper.

Tom
Click to expand...


Wow Tom!

I wish I could write like you, it would save a lot of time.


:laughing:
 
Sharpie said:
1. Iron particles will not come out from claying? Why does the bag test after claying feel smooth?
2. Particles deeper that compound will take out? How could one not feel or see that?

Not trying to sound like a tool, just curious
Click to expand...

Claying will shave off the piece of the iron particle that protrudes above the surface of the paint, but will not get below the surface of the paint to 'pull out' that part of the particle embedded IN the paint. This is where 'iron removers' come into their own - they are able to "dissolve" [I think the correct terms is actually acid pickling] away the whole piece of contamination, be it above or below the surface of the paint.
 
TMQ said:
I see you have a 16 bottle there. How much was left after treating the Olds?
Click to expand...

I could check. Haven't used that bottle for anything else and it was full when I started.


TMQ said:
I just used McKee's iron remover on a Lexus GS350 the other day and to just to get it "damp" all over the car I used almost all of the 16 oz bottle. Is this right?

Tom
Click to expand...


That sounds excessive but maybe not? Let me check the bottle I used as this car is HUGE.


:)
 
Mike,

I see that you're planning to apply #7 after compounding/polishing step.

If paint is in bad shape, Maguire's #7 first then compound/polish afterwards? Right?
If paint not too shabby like the Olds, can you go either way? Before or after compounding step. Correct?

Tom
 
Mike,

Wow! Your extensive response to my question is most impressive.:xyxthumbs: But, I don't buy it. (kidding)
 
TMQ said:
Mike,

I see that you're planning to apply #7 after compounding/polishing step.
Click to expand...

Correct and I did this. Write-up on the way.

I did share the #7 process on my FB page on the fly because it's so easy to do on the fly with Facebook. Takes time, thinking and skill to create a REAL article. Here's the link if anyone wants to see the pretty pictures.

https://www.facebook.com/Mike.Phillips.Autogeek/posts/1460335790667121

17760137_1460333414000692_895163200847847068_n.jpg



TMQ said:
If paint is in bad shape, Maguire's #7 first then compound/polish afterwards? Right?
Click to expand...

That is the regimen I use IF the paint is IMPORTANT to save and preserve. I get a handful of negative comments about this step from a handful of Debbie Downers that don't READ. If a person reads my original article I made the word important red in the paragraph that explains it all.

Regardless of the Debbie Downers I can no longer count how many people I've helped save the paint on their "Special Project" over the decades and in all cases it was IMPORTANT to them and that's all that really matters to me.


TMQ said:
If paint not too shabby like the Olds, can you go either way? Before or after compounding step. Correct?

Tom
Click to expand...

I guess you could. There's no law against it but I my mind it would be a waste of time, energy and towels and also a waste of product.

I'm trying hard to track the car down in the below thread to write an all inclusive article.


Like Wayne Carini - I find them but unlike Wayne - I polish them



:)
 
Sharpie said:
Mike,

Wow! Your extensive response to my question is most impressive.:xyxthumbs: But, I don't buy it. (kidding)
Click to expand...

Thank you. It was just stuff off the top of my head while I'm typing up a fresh review.

Nothing against Facebook but I like to point out to people, (not you), that you can't get information like the above displayed like it's displayed because of the limitations of the "message box".


:laughing:
 
Mike Phillips said:
Guess it's kind of like water beading. Anyone that understands car paint knows that water beading is a bad thing but it's what people want.
Click to expand...


Where can I find more information on this above?

:)
 
Mike Phillips

Guess it's kind of like water beading.

Anyone that understands car paint knows that water beading is a bad thing but it's what people want.
Click to expand...


bhonshell42 said:
Where can I find more information on this above?

:)
Click to expand...


Try using Google and these search terms

Water beading causes water spots mike Phillips


In a nutshell, water beading looks cool, even I like how tight, tall and small water beads look on car paint.

BUT if your car gets wet, like it rains or say a sprinkler goes off next to your car, and you're not around to wipe the cool looking water beads off, then you could get water spots, like the worst kind which are Type II Water Spots or Crater Etchings. Or even just Imprint Rings.

Both of which you must compound and/or polish to remove.


Here's my article on water spots.


3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III


I was at Meguiar's when the corporate decision was made to no longer make waxes that sheet water and instead make waxes that bead water because it was finally determined that perception is reality and people perceive water beading to mean protection and longevity.

So if a wax does not bead water really well and bead water for a long time people assume it's not a good product.

This all came about from the NXT vs Zaino Wax Wars of which I am a veteran.


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Hi Shawn,

Good questions as most iron removers are pretty much the same in what they remove.

SONAX named this

Fallout Remover

Which is a little different than iron remover. From the store page for the product, (link is included in my write-up), the copy states,





So besides iron contamination this formula reads to be a little more wide spectrum as it also removes industrial fallout, (usually we use clay for this), and lime deposits (from water both city and well water).


After washing and chemically decontaminating the paint I then clayed it and took pictures of the clay to show what was coming off the paint. The pictures show you can't just rely on one forum of decontamination. If a car's paint is neglected enough to have one type of contamination chances are incredibly good that it's going to have both and even ALL types of contamination.

Wait till you see the results of a 2-step compounding and polishing process to this 60 year old paint. The owner picks it up today and he's going to be blown away!



:)
Click to expand...

Mike, thank you for the reply.

I just had a chance to try out the Sonax product over the weekend and absolutely love it and here is why. When you spray the Sonax onto your working surface, either horizontal or vertical, the stuff tends to stay put for an extended period of time. For example, you can let the Sonax stay on the wheels for a bit, take a toothbrush and work it around and remove all kinds of gunk. Lastly, I don't smell like a skunk afterwards as the odor has been tamed down with the Sonax product. So, overall I am very impressed with how this stuff works and will continue to use it.

Much appreciated,

Sawacs
 
sawacs said:
Mike, thank you for the reply.

I just had a chance to try out the Sonax product over the weekend and absolutely love it and here is why. When you spray the Sonax onto your working surface, either horizontal or vertical, the stuff tends to stay put for an extended period of time. For example, you can let the Sonax stay on the wheels for a bit, take a toothbrush and work it around and remove all kinds of gunk.

Lastly, I don't smell like a skunk afterwards as the odor has been tamed down with the Sonax product.

So, overall I am very impressed with how this stuff works and will continue to use it.

Much appreciated,

Sawacs
Click to expand...


Great to hear. SONAX makes great products.


Thank you for sharing your experience in this thread...


:dblthumb2:
 
Great article as always, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, I will have to look on Google about that water beading question
 
I forgot to mention that I LOVE the color on that car!
 
dlc95 said:
I forgot to mention that I LOVE the color on that car!
Click to expand...


You should hear the engine. It has a pretty lopey cam in it and a nice exhaust system. She runs sweet...


It's still here as the interior has not been cleaned, possibly since it rolled off the assembly line so I have more detailing products to test out, take pictures for and write a reviews for.

Stay tuned...



:)
 
Thanks Mike. That gives me an reasonable idea of how much it takes to do a car!
It looks like I used a bit more that that...

Thanks for your time...

Tom
 
That is an awesome shot! Something about that shape and color....!

Tom
 
washing after iron x type products is a must? or can I goto clay after? and not washing
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top