Poll: Do you wash after claying?

spewking said:
Interesting discussion.

Would rinse, (optional soap foam, then rinse) iron x, rinse, clay/clay mitt, then full wash be an efficient order of things?

Would you be worried with this approach the iron x particles may remain after the rinsing and then get swirled and scratch the paint? Would use the WW for lube so such could help remove dirt and particles.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

IMO those aren't the proper steps and would likely lead to inflicting swirls...
iron X [on dry paint, no pre rinse needed]
Rinse
Bucket wash
Rinse
Claymitt with plenty of claylube
Dry and apply your choice of lsp.

If you go from Iron X straight to clay, what will you have done about the remaining dirt/grit that most certainly didn't fully come off after just using Iron X on the paint. [even if you did the foaming step] You need to thoroughly wash prior to claying, otherwise you'll be grinding grit into the paint.
 
Eldorado2k said:
IMO those aren't the proper steps and would likely lead to inflicting swirls...
iron X [on dry paint, no pre rinse needed]
Rinse
Bucket wash
Rinse
Claymitt with plenty of claylube
Dry and apply your choice of lsp.

If you go from Iron X straight to clay, what will you have done about the remaining dirt/grit that most certainly didn't fully come off after just using Iron X on the paint. [even if you did the foaming step] You need to thoroughly wash prior to claying, otherwise you'll be grinding grit into the paint.
Click to expand...

I would never Iron X and clay without polishing (light).
 
Rsurfer said:
Is claying the same as an iron remover?
Click to expand...
No, using an iron remover breaks down minute particles of metal embedded in the clear coat. Claying removes surface contamination

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Rsurfer said:
I would never Iron X and clay without polishing (light).
Click to expand...

I do it like that pretty much all the time on my personal vehicles. This Kia has been iron deconed several times, clayed maybe 3 times in 3yrs, and never polished [unless the 1 time I used Mckee's Coating prep polish on a DA counts] The paint still looks like brand new. [in a great way] :)

1f5248f1fff6b1496878a7d28718deec.jpg


I detailed a silver 2011 Kia Optima yesterday following those same steps [Med. grade Nanoskin mitt] and since it was just a quik deal I only used Megs D156 as lsp. Results were phenomenal.
 
Buster906 said:
No, using an iron remover breaks down minute particles of metal embedded in the clear coat. Claying removes surface contamination

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The question was "Do you wash after claying?), not do you wash after Iron X.
 
Eldorado2k said:
I do it like that pretty much all the time on my personal vehicles. This Kia has been iron deconed several times, clayed maybe 3 times in 3yrs, and never polished [unless the 1 time I used Mckee's Coating prep polish on a DA counts] The paint still looks like brand new. [in a great way] :)

1f5248f1fff6b1496878a7d28718deec.jpg


I detailed a silver 2011 Kia Optima yesterday following those same steps [Med. grade Nanoskin mitt] and since it was just a quik deal I only used Megs D156 as lsp. Results were phenomenal.[/QUOTEI


I have a black car.
Click to expand...
 
I was answering someone. Geee

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Not really, but sort of...

I "clay" (Nanoskin Blocks), then I begin the machine abrasion process. As I go around the vehicle, I wipe off the sections I'm about to work on before I lay pad to paint. I use a plush microfiber, and Optimum No Rinse clay lube dilution in a trigger bottle. This ensures that regardless of where I am in the process, I'm working on a clean surface - free from environmental dust that may appear, or compound/polish dust that may settle throughout the process.

Before I apply sealant, I go through a similar process with a fresh, plush microfiber.
 
dlc95 said:
Not really, but sort of...

I "clay" (Nanoskin Blocks), then I begin the machine abrasion process. As I go around the vehicle, I wipe off the sections I'm about to work on before I lay pad to paint. I use a plush microfiber, and Optimum No Rinse clay lube dilution in a trigger bottle. This ensures that regardless of where I am in the process, I'm working on a clean surface - free from environmental dust that may appear, or compound/polish dust that may settle throughout the process.

Before I apply sealant, I go through a similar process with a fresh, plush microfiber.
Click to expand...

Great tip. Will definitely use. Thanks for sharing.
 
Use a clay bar and Wolfgang rinseless in the clay lube ratio. Either just wipe it off or rinse with CR spotless then dry before polishing.
 
Eldorado2k said:
IMO those aren't the proper steps and would likely lead to inflicting swirls...
iron X [on dry paint, no pre rinse needed]
Rinse
Bucket wash
Rinse
Claymitt with plenty of claylube
Dry and apply your choice of lsp.

If you go from Iron X straight to clay, what will you have done about the remaining dirt/grit that most certainly didn't fully come off after just using Iron X on the paint. [even if you did the foaming step] You need to thoroughly wash prior to claying, otherwise you'll be grinding grit into the paint.
Click to expand...

Agree with Eldo on this.
Need to remove/wash off dirt before using clay!

Tom
 
I usually foam soak the car, then pressure rinse, this usually removes anything stuck on surface besides tar or sap like materials. Then I clay mitt with lube and then bucket wash with ONR and dry before machine aio or polish. I had a guy tell me other day I should bucket wash after pressure foam and rinse simply because he read you should bucket wash before clay. My opinion is I just pressure foamed and rinsed, I know I going to machine with aio or polish, so anything I could possibly pick up out of paint with mitt and micro mar the surface is going to be machined out next step, I just don't see the need for a 3rd wash added in before machining, am I looking at it wrong? I mean my eyes are on the car, if the foam and pressure wash missed a spot, I'm going to see it as I approach the area with the mitt, if it's above surface and I know I shouldn't mitt over it cause it's going to come loose and grind under, I'm smart enough not to.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Eldorado2k said:
IMO those aren't the proper steps and would likely lead to inflicting swirls...
iron X [on dry paint, no pre rinse needed]
Rinse
Bucket wash
Rinse
Claymitt with plenty of claylube
Dry and apply your choice of lsp.

If you go from Iron X straight to clay, what will you have done about the remaining dirt/grit that most certainly didn't fully come off after just using Iron X on the paint. [even if you did the foaming step] You need to thoroughly wash prior to claying, otherwise you'll be grinding grit into the paint.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify, you apply Iron-X to a dirty car?
 
spewking said:
I have starting using the nano skin so i guess the reason for the second wash would be to remove any contaminants released from the claying that remain on the car?
Click to expand...

No need. Use a very soapy water solution when using Nano's and then rinse and dry. Even when going old school and claying, there's no need, just spritz and wipe clean.

My process is:

  • Full vehicle wash and rinse. Grab a bottle of water while water drips/runs off.
  • Hit with Iron X in sections. Let dwell, then prior to finalizing that section, I wipe it with a MF Mitt followed by a thorough rinsing after each section.
  • Nano sponge with soapy water. I mix up a small 1 gal. or so bucket and make my way around the car 1-2 panels at a time. I like doing it by hand vs machine to get a feel for the situation and then simply rinse when done.
  • Dry the vehicle, grab more water and prepare for buffing.
 
I use almost the exact same method as pdq i.e. i "wash" again with a soapy mix and my nano mitt panel by panel. A thorough rinse and dry and ready to machine.
 
Thank you ski2 for your input about "Rinseless wash". I plan to use Wolfgang's Uber RW first. Then, clay my 2005 G35 especially on surface panels. I will probably need to wait a full day to wax (I am a retired teacher). Lastly, I am thinking I could use Meg's Spray wax, unless I can figure out another easy on, easy off wax.
Can you recommend one?
 
Meguiars Ultimate fast finish

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top