Optimum Gloss Coat Application Problem

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charlestek

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I have a new Honda Accord that I recently purchased. The paint appeared to not need any correction, so following advice from Optimum Customer Service, I simply washed the car and then used Optimum Paint Prep ->Extremely generously to make sure I removed any of the wax from the factory or dealer.

Then when it came time for the Optimum Gloss coat, having watched a youtube video of an Optimum rep applying it, I primed the included blue pad then tried to start sealing the hood of the car.

However, there was tremendous friction between the application pad and the car, despite a decent amount of gloss coat on the pad. Since the car is a light silver, it made it difficult to also see the curing haze after 60 seconds or so.

I managed to complete the car, but every panel was difficult to wipe the pad across. Several times it grabbed dragged and stopped when I was doing a wiping motion so it flipped up in the air (I'm a good catcher)

The only thing I can guess is that maybe I used too much Optimum paint prep, but I did remove the paint prep carefully with successive microfiber towels, changing towels every few panels.

Anyone got any ideas?

In addition, when I took the black plug out of the gloss coat syringe and fastened the blue pointed tip after cutting it open, I had trouble getting anything to come out of syringe, so that I pushed hard and somehow blew 2cc's into my hair.
Now if my balding hair starts growing again, I will certainly order more, otherwise I was pretty angry to have wasted $20 worth of product. The syringe does not have smooth linear action.
 
Yeah the syringe thing is a problem.Shot me in my face.
 
GSKR,

Did you use the supplied blue foam pad and did you have any issues with smoothly applying the gloss coat?
 
I would like to know if you did the baggie test to see if you should have clayed? I also blew out most of a 10cc. syringe because I did not pull back before pushing on the plunger to prime the plunger. It ended up on my face, pad,and floor and made me feel pretty silly. Since then I have not made that mistake again and really love to use Gloss Coat.
 
I did not do the baggie test, but I know from feel that the surface was absolutely smooth and no particulate matter. It really seemed like the paint surface was "so dry" that there was no film of gloss coat to glide the applicator. The car has 30 miles on it and had virtually no imperfections.

As far as the syringe, from everyone's response so far, so nice of Optimum not to put instructions on "priming" the syringe.

Better still they should put the solution in a squeeze bottle that dispenses droplets, much easier......
 
Whether it's brand new or not, I would've did mechanical decon, did the baggie test and maybe, if needed, chemical decon. Wash the car afterwards and then use Optimum hyper polish to make it it's absolute very best. At this point you've done everything you could do for prep on this "new" car AND THEN apply gloss coat!

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
 
Optimum assured me that if there weren't defects, that it is a waste of potential clear coat to polish for no good reason. They also advised me not to clay for the same reason if there were no surface contaminants. I used my judgement.

If I felt it needed polishing or claying I would have done it, especially so as not to waste $60 of gloss coat. I'm really trying to get an answer on the surface slide of the optimum pad.

I suppose it is possible that the surface was not smooth enough from chemical cleaning. How would I test my results to see if I do need to remove the gloss coat, polish and clay and redo?

Without lubrication from something, the pad should have trouble gliding. Maybe something wrong with my gloss coat liquid?
Here is a pic of the side of the car late at next to the siding of the house. Lots of reflection of siding. The hood and roof and trunk have dew on them, so I can't take real pictures until the morning.View attachment 59733
 
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Paint prep is not going to cause you a problem. Optimum states it contains a catalyst for gloss coat to bond to.

As far as the blue applicator I never had a problem with it. Did you prime it just the way Yvan shows on the rag company video?

I would agree with KlasseAct and the others on chemically and mechanically decontaminating the paint followed by a light polish. New vehicles arrive contaminated as well from transportation and sitting on the lot.

One tip on the syringe, instead of pushing on the syringe and forcing the product to shoot out, try tapping the top with your thumb. That will force product out without shooting it all over the place.

If you want to start over you are going to have to polish off whatever gloss coat is on the paint.

Gloss Coat can get wet at a minimum of 1 hour after application. Try spraying water onto the surface and judge the water behavior. You will know if it on the paint.
 
Guz,

Besides a few other youtube videos, I was specifically commenting on the Rag company video, as the rep primed an upper half moon of the pad and swiped with ease. I will try some water beading a little later this morning, it is about 8am EST here in Boston. I am sure there is gloss coat on the paint. How well it is bonded and if it is bonded well to a smooth surface is another question.

I don't have a garage, so I am at the mercy of planning around a good weather forecast. We are having some mild fall like weather here for a week, but it will be moderately cool in the evening and night for some days coming.
 
I just sprayed some Meguiars quick detailer on the surface, it seems to bead in micro droplets. However, a baggie does seem to pick up either high spots of the gloss coat or impurities that I cannot detect with my fingers(smooth with fingers).

I'm not in a great mood for polishing down the car, though I would probably use denatured alcohol, clay, then polish in that order. It would have to wait until I order another tube of gloss coat and have a window of weather.
Here are some daytime pictures:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/he9kr84g2lkzi6f/A1a.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qjruxw258r32t89/A2a.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wlfn7t60422vpg5/A3a.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0vhgc6d5n4kpdp/A4a.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ae24jgrkygg7pfy/A5b.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6cumxqml3fp65sf/A6b.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6cumxqml3fp65sf/A6b.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cgajxqakqqq7qp1/A7b.jpg
 
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charlestek said:
GSKR,

Did you use the supplied blue foam pad and did you have any issues with smoothly applying the gloss coat?
Click to expand...

I always polish prior no matter what.But l can pretty much tell you its the applicator. Buy suede blue gyeon cloths and fold into a square and the coating will flow no grabbing and you will also use less.Gyeon suede are the cheapest 9.99 for a pack versus others and don't use a block.Wear gloves prime up the cloth and take your time .With that process you can do large panels at a time.
 
Never see any post on boyds tru coat.That is some good stuff for the price.Adds depth and can take abuse like tunnel washing.Great stuff and easy to work with.
 
Trust me on this .Those guys don't work in the real world. I just coated a iroc z with the same info I gave you.Buy the blue gyeon #1 they don't drag and the others somewhat do.you should buy the suede cloths and the blue gyeon microfiber towel and.do not use the block apply in a zig sag motion no circles because you will be using to much in circle patterns.you really should polish it first to maximize the benefits of the coating,it really does make a difference. If your car is flawless polish with essence then jump right to the coating.
 
Sorry for the periods to many my fingers are to big.
 
 
I have used the carpro suede and block as well as the included blue foam applicator that comes with gloss coat. I have not had any issues using either one. The foam will drag a little where there is no product on it.

You can also apply another coat 1 hour after the first coat. You should not need to use all 10cc's on one car.
 
The Guz said:
I have used the carpro suede and block as well as the included blue foam applicator that comes with gloss coat. I have not had any issues using either one. The foam will drag a little where there is no product on it.

You can also apply another coat 1 hour after the first coat. You should not need to use all 10cc's on one car.
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Exact same experience as Guz. Have used both. Carpro foam block with suede microfiber is easier to use over the Optimum blue foam pad, but either works. Don't like the syringe but haven't had any accidents with it. Love Gloss-Coat. Have only done three cars with Gloss-Coat, so there are much more experienced people on the board than I.
 
The problem with foam as guz mentioned if there is no product on it you will hit a dry spot causing the foam to fall out of your hands if you don't have a firm grip.When applying coating to blue foam product does not stay on top its absorbed by the foam itself.
 
Block is a pita and adds more time to the process.Nobody around me including my buddy Robert deterlizzi does not use blocks.
 
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