Are these buffer/polishers a no-no?

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emilime75

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I've been doing a lot of reading lately on the various steps of paint restoration and polishing cars, and what I never see or hear is wether or not the pictured type of polishers are ok to use or if they should be strictly avoided. Some insight would be appreciated.

To add, I'm just a weekend warrior doing this to my own car, not a business or anything of the sorts. I'll be doing the full wash,
clay bar, polish and wax to a car I just bought.

Thanks in advance.
View attachment 61395
 
Its only good for maybe wax removal with a microfiber bonnet. Better to use a wax that easy enough to remove without the need for the buffer.

You may get some gloss enhancement with an AIO but any correction is very doubtful. You can get a much better real DA at HF for a really good price with coupons/sales (like $60). Get a new backing plate and pads from here. Its the cheapest way to get started and see if its something you want to expand on with better tools.
 
Yep, they call them wax spreaders around here.

They don’t have enough power to keep the pad rotating.

They might do a little work on old softer single stage paint, but in general you would be much better off with the DA polisher listed by DBAILEY
 
I see. My only experience with them was many years ago, on an 80's model BMW. It was red and faded, and did a good job(or so I thought at the time) of bringing it back to a nice shine.

My fear of faster/stronger buffer/polishers is the possibility of burning through the paint.
 
If it were me I would look into a different DA. I do know that the PC7424XP or the Griot's Garage (GG) 6" DA's are an excellent choice to venture into machine detailing. I have the PC7424XP and I still have it in my arsenal til this day. MOST people say to get the GG 6" as it is more powerful, has a lifetime warranty and shares the same type of Backing Plates and pads. If I had to do it all over again, I might lean to the GG6. All that being said, IMO learning a technique is the best way to go. I would look at one of Mike Phillips books...Show Car Detailing. You will learn quite a bit and you may have a better understanding of what types of tools and products you might get for being that Weekend Warrior.
 
emilime75 said:
I see. My only experience with them was many years ago, on an 80's model BMW. It was red and faded, and did a good job(or so I thought at the time) of bringing it back to a nice shine.

My fear of faster/stronger buffer/polishers is the possibility of burning through the paint.
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With the DA polishers like the ome mentioned from Harbor Freight, the PC 7424xp, and Griots Garage GG6, you won't burn through the paint. The only way you can do harm is if you turn them upside down and whack the car with them!
In addition to Mike's books on the subject, I ventured into this hobby by watching the junkman2000's videos on youtube and found them extremely helpful in understanding how to use the machines properly.

Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
I remember seeing a thread - I believe it was on the Meguiar's site where a guy used one of those to correct paint. He used Ultimate Compound and a terrycloth bonnet.

As long as you can maintain pad rotation with a touch of firm pressure, you can make it work. That shape of machine in particular might work against you with that.

I do see these in operation at full service car washes applying cleaner waxes, and they get the job done.

If you really want that type of tool, I'd suggest the smaller 6" version. I had one a long time ago, and did quite a few cleaner wax, and polish + wax jobs with it. I also used it to follow up a rotary buffer cutting step a few times. It's difficult to judge the tests I got with it now, because it was so long ago, and I have a different eye now.

If you really want to maximize yoir efforts, get a Porter Cable 7424xp type tool.
 
emilime75 said:
I've been doing a lot of reading lately on the various steps of paint restoration and polishing cars, and what I never see or hear is wether or not the pictured type of polishers are ok to use or if they should be strictly avoided. Some insight would be appreciated.

To add, I'm just a weekend warrior doing this to my own car, not a business or anything of the sorts. I'll be doing the full wash,
clay bar, polish and wax to a car I just bought.

Thanks in advance.
View attachment 61395
Click to expand...

OMG NO! Those things are a sin around here
 
if you're only going to use a DA once a year or so and don't want to spend (or don't have) a lot of money then get the HF DA and purchase the backing plate and pads here at AG, and if money is not an issue then get the GG6 (worth every penny) instead..
 
As others have said, don't bother. Yes, you could use one on older single stage paint with decent results. But it won't do much with modern clear coats. Plus, they're harder to control than an average DA.

When buying a polisher, even as a weekend warrior working on your own car only, factor in that you'll probably keep the polisher a long time. I bought a PC7424 back in 2002 and it's still going strong. I paid $120 for it back then (no small chunk of change at the time) but that works out to a mere $8 a year. And believe me, you'll be using it more than you think.

Buy once, cry once, I say. If you can afford it, I'd suggest a Griots GG6. Lifetime warranty and good power for a DA.
 
When I see these, I'm obligated to post this:

PolisherMassager.JPG
 
VISITOR said:
if you're only going to use a DA once a year or so and don't want to spend (or don't have) a lot of money then get the HF DA and purchase the backing plate and pads here at AG, and if money is not an issue then get the GG6 (worth every penny) instead..
Click to expand...

I had the harbor frieght da when I started the backing plate is fine. I bought the miguiars backing plate for it thinking it was going to make it better. There was absolutely no difference at all. Its the same backing plate with a different sticker
 
brettS4 said:
As others have said, don't bother. Yes, you could use one on older single stage paint with decent results. But it won't do much with modern clear coats. Plus, they're harder to control than an average DA.

When buying a polisher, even as a weekend warrior working on your own car only, factor in that you'll probably keep the polisher a long time. I bought a PC7424 back in 2002 and it's still going strong. I paid $120 for it back then (no small chunk of change at the time) but that works out to a mere $8 a year. And believe me, you'll be using it more than you think.

Buy once, cry once, I say. If you can afford it, I'd suggest a Griots GG6. Lifetime warranty and good power for a DA.
Click to expand...

i agree with this the gg6 is worth the extra money plus you can probably get a nice starter kit right here at autogeek
 
fightnews said:
I had the harbor frieght da when I started the backing plate is fine. I bought the miguiars backing plate for it thinking it was going to make it better. There was absolutely no difference at all. Its the same backing plate with a different sticker
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There’s a major difference in the velcro. The HF backing plate has velcro that sticks so hard you’ll probably delaminate your 6” pads trying to remove them after a few times. It’s like 1 step under crazy glue. That’s not the case with the Meguiars or any other backing plate.

Besides why would you want to work that machine with a 6” plate & pads when 5” pads not only give you better access, but the machine will provide better power with them vs. having to spin 6” pads.

Believe me, I have the HF backing plate and thought it would be useful for spin drying my large LC Orbitals and Rupes pads after washing them... I quickly found out I was close to delaminating all of them the 1st time I tried.

a496170f3200670e021f82b69115a80d.jpg
 
Eldorado2k said:
There’s a major difference in the velcro. The HF backing plate has velcro that sticks so hard you’ll probably delaminate your 6” pads trying to remove them after a few times. It’s like 1 step under crazy glue. That’s not the case with the Meguiars or any other backing plate.

Besides why would you want to work that machine with a 6” plate & pads when 5” pads not only give you better access, but the machine will provide better power with them vs. having to spin 6” pads.

Believe me, I have the HF backing plate and thought it would be useful for spin drying my large LC Orbitals and Rupes pads after washing them... I quickly found out I was close to delaminating all of them the 1st time I tried.

a496170f3200670e021f82b69115a80d.jpg
Click to expand...

The HF plate also features. The classic "J" hooks, where the Meguiar's uses micro hooks.
 
Due to the fact that we have diverged from the OP's original question...a couple of years back, Mike Stoops (over at MOL) did a great write up on the various types of 'velcro' backing plates. VERY informative. Sorry don't have link.

Bill
 
dlc95 said:
The HF plate also features. The classic "J" hooks, where the Meguiar's uses micro hooks.
Click to expand...

That must be it... Those J hooks have insane grip! It’s like pulling teeth. Lol.
 
fightnews said:
I had the harbor frieght da when I started the backing plate is fine. I bought the miguiars backing plate for it thinking it was going to make it better. There was absolutely no difference at all. Its the same backing plate with a different sticker
Click to expand...

the HF DA comes with a 6" backing plate and i would ditch it and replace it with a 5" instead (one below) so you can use 5.5" pads...

https://www.autogeek.net/griots-5-inch-vented-plate.html
griots-garage-5-inch-vented-orbital-backing-plate-16.gif
 
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