Rotary VS Dual Action for Compounding

It can level defects faster without burning paint. Leveling a defect and burning through are two different things, burning is excessive heat which is not related to cut.

Sanding a piece of wood and setting it alight are different things, both generate some form of heat, get the picture?

Interesting...the term burning the paint. The pads on DAs get a lot hotter than on a rotary.
 
It can level defects faster without burning paint. Leveling a defect and burning through are two different things, burning is excessive heat which is not related to cut.


So an operator must be more conscious about clear levels using a DA than with a rotary because it can cut through clear faster?
 
Faster than cutting with a rotary? I believe that the 21 MKII offers the more correction than a rotary on open flat panels, but the 21mm orbit still makes it completely impractical for correcting every surface on most modern vehicles. Unless you're working out of a body shop and all the panels are disassembled? If not, I assume you're using a multi-tool approach which for me takes a lot more time.

21 MKII with 5” Kamakazi Beast bp and experience can be a one tool only, but I use the Mille with the 5mm orbit and Rupes Mini also.
 
So an operator must be more conscious about clear levels using a DA than with a rotary because it can cut through clear faster?

Not just any DA, cant class MKII’s with any other DA’s as nothing out there comes even close. More importantly always do a test spot with the least aggressive methods and slowly step up if needed.
 
Nice factual link right there. How you finding Resurrection? I like Redemption.

I have already pointed out that this does not pertain to my original discussion as this is a one step and we do not know the before condition. I have already agreed that if it is light swirl removal, a single step DA is first choice. But we are discussing a 2 step with compounding being the first. Again, we are not talking about light jobs that require a single step.
 
Not just any DA, cant class MKII’s with any other DA’s as nothing out there comes even close. More importantly always do a test spot with the least aggressive methods and slowly step up if needed.


So if I rephrase and say - "using an MKII, you will need to be more conscious of clear coat levels than if you used a rotary because it cuts through clear faster" is a correct statement?
 
I have already pointed out that this does not pertain to my original discussion as this is a one step and we do not know the before condition. I have already agreed that if it is light swirl removal, a single step DA is first choice. But we are discussing a 2 step with compounding being the first. Again, we are not talking about light jobs that require a single step.

Again, one step two step three step MKII still faster with a better finish. If you talking PC,GG,3401 etc. rotary is faster then.
 
So if I rephrase and say - "using an MKII, you will need to be more conscious of clear coat levels than if you used a rotary because it cuts through clear faster" is a correct statement?

Experience and test spots as the pad and abrasives will dictate howmuch and how fast it cuts.
 
4 ply twisted wool on PE-14 and LH19E on speeds 4 on rotary with extreme cut compounds can match 21 MKII with DMX pads in cut but not finish.
 
Experience and test spots as the pad and abrasives will dictate howmuch and how fast it cuts.

So if this statement is true, then is it correct to say that using the MKII in the first step does not actually save you time because it doesn't matter what tool it is, only the pad and compound combination? And since it is cutting at the same rate, given the cutting material, it is just as "unsafe" in terms of removing too much clear coat?
 
So if this statement is true, then is it correct to say that using the MKII in the first step does not actually save you time because it doesn't matter what tool it is, only the pad and compound combination? And since it is cutting at the same rate, given the cutting material, it is just as "unsafe" in terms of removing too much clear coat?

I give up. Your minds made up, goodluck.
 
1 - In what case do you use it that you can't achieve results from your DA?
2 - How is it safer if the operator is proficient with each tool and takes all necessary preliminary steps?
3 - We are only talking about 2 step corrections in this discussion (not a one step) because even if you use a heavy cut with microfiber pad, there will still be some DA hazing from this process that you need to finish off.

1- Has not happened yet on things that could be done with a tool. Every instances where the DA could not do it, sanding was required. But I still try the wool pad/rotary combo before jumping to sanding, just in case.
2- A second of loosing focus with a rotary is all it takes to burn an edge. You can't do that with a DA. Sure if you stay on an edge for a while, the DA can burn through it, but it will never do it in a second like a rotary can.
3 - And... you can't really do 1 steps with a rotary and get a decent result...
 
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