How to strip wax

01AUDI

New member
Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
217
Reaction score
0
I have tried searching but canthe seem to get an answer. I cureentry have wax brand A on my vehicle but it's almost gone and now I want to try wax brand B.. sinse they are different I don't want to layer, I want to start fresh.. how? I see you all saying how you took off your wax to add anotber, but I don't see anyone saying how.
Is there a way to get back to start without using a d/a?
 
Let me assure you that polishing
will ensure total removal of existing
Waxes/Sealants.


Bob
 
There are dedicated wax removers you can use. I am not sure, however, Gyeon Prep might be another way to go too. I have Gyeon Prep for coating but it supposed to strip off all oils and other product for prepping for coatings. I see no reason why it would not work with wax prep. But I do know you can buy these all at AGO.
 
Why would polishing be the only way? Would an AIO like mk37 360 take care of what ever is still there? I don't want to polish and then do my mk37 360 layer.
 
360 might, but a quick wipe down with a paint prep / grease and wax remover is a sure bet it will be 100% gone.
 
Why would polishing be the only way? Would an AIO like mk37 360 take care of what ever is still there? I don't want to polish and then do my mk37 360 layer.

From Autogeek store description of MK37 360: McKee's 37 360™ removes dull films and wax build-up to bring new life to the paint.

And it being an AIO, it will leave it's own protection behind
 
Cheapest thing to use is an IPA solution. Gyeon prep, car pro eraser, Griot's paint prep, rustoleum wax remover, any of those products should work on a wax. Just be sure to follow the instructions!
 
My personal opinion is to just wash and apply the wax you want if you are happy with the current appearance and feel of your paint and if you do not plan to polish.

Any extra effort to remove the current LSP (via chemicals and wiping) could result in inducing unneeded marring or scratching to gain minimal extra longevity.
 
I agree, I always use paint prep / ipa prior to lsp to ensure proper bonding. Maybe overkill, but get I great results so not messing with success.
 
I've seen some mentioning of an IPA. is that a homemade mix or is that the name of a brand ?
 
IPA solutions and things Eraser are for removing polishing residues left over from polishing/compounding, not for stripping waxes/sealants. A panel wipe like Klean Strip Prep All or Gtechniq Panel Wipe have the ability to remove waxes/sealants. A paint cleanser with a DA is quick way to strip the paint and get a deep clean at the same time. An AIO will do the same thing but also leave a layer of protection down that you will have to decide whether its compatible with whatever wax it is you are wanting to put on your car.
 
So do most of you always polish before applying a new wax ? Am i looking for a product that just isn't used often ?
 
So do most of you always polish before applying a new wax ?

I never by rule polish before I apply wax/sealant, not even after claying [unless it happens to be that 5% chance that it ends up marring, which never happens]

I only polish when my goal is to clean the paint of any traffic film that may possibly be holding back the maximum color/shine of the paint or when it’s my goal to remove any swirls.
 
I never by rule polish before I apply wax/sealant

so what is your process. You have a new client who has wax already on their car and you want to strip the old wax and re-apply a better and different brand of wax or sealant.
 
I never by rule polish before I apply wax/sealant, not even after claying [unless it happens to be that 5% chance that it ends up marring, which never happens]

I only polish when my goal is to clean the paint of any traffic film that may possibly be holding back the maximum color/shine of the paint or when it’s my goal to remove any swirls.

I think this would all depend on how frequently this you are applying the wax/sealant. When I was still using sealants every six months, I would still polish the car on an annual basis. Road grime and minor defects from life usually necessitate a full clay, light polish, and re-apply the LSP.

I also found when using really durable LSP's like 845, it wouldn't fail evenly and some remnants would hold on for a REALLY long time. The only way to ensure all the old stuff was gone and wasn't building slowly over the years was to mechanically polish it all off. When I say polish, I'm only hitting the vehicle with the lightest combination of products to spruce things up. Not a full heavy compound and aggressive pad session where I'd be grinding away at the clear coat.
 
Compound/Polish is always the sure way to strip an LSP
With all my testing only type of chemicals I found to strip an LSP is acid
Hi alkaline and PH neutral products did nothing.

Claying will only strip the LSP that was on the contaminates it removed..
 
so what is your process. You have a new client who has wax already on their car and you want to strip the old wax and re-apply a better and different brand of wax or sealant.

I only polish when I need to polish
IF Customer isnt paying for a AIO or a paint correction I obviously won't polish ..just apply LSP over surface.
 
so what is your process. You have a new client who has wax already on their car and you want to strip the old wax and re-apply a better and different brand of wax or sealant.

NormL people never have an actual decent layer of pre existing wax that you didn’t personally apply. Lol.
Closest thing I’ve ever experienced is what appeared to be a spray wax. And the 1 time that happened I actually complimented the owner for being a 1%er.

As far as anything I personally lay down, I simply re apply. [as long as it passes the baggie test]

And even if there is a layer of wax/sealant on the paint, it’s my personal belief that the solvents in the sealant will remove the pre existing lsp and be replaced with what you’re laying down... Because there’s no such thing as layering*
 
Back
Top