Car has been corrected too many times what products do you recommend

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estcstm3

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Hi All,

I have a paint gauge and the paint is all reading around 80um so i do not want to do risk clear coat failure by correcting the paint. What specific products do you all recommend that will help fill the marring/wash induced swirls? And will last more than a wash or two? If its a glaze ideally it can be topped by a sealant Duragloss TPP, WG3.0 without affecting durability.

Also what are your typically paint thickness readings for the cars you are correcting, what numbers give you pause?

Thanks!
 
+Following this thread. I have a friend with a car in the same state.
 
IMO, and if it's my choice.
And just like I did on my own beloved 1997 Tahoe in my Avatar with only 45K on the Odo, which as you know is now 21 years of age, I decided to go with a Quartz Paint Coating about 3 years ago.

The Coating I personally chose, was Carpro CQuartz UK.

In reality, it didn't seem to much matter that I have tried my hardest to meticulously maintain the finish over the years, and with the use of high quality products such as Collinite Waxes, Megs #20 Sealant, Zaino, and others, I felt that as they say "Time waits for no Man", and that as well father time will eventually take its toll on a pant finish with UV damage, oxidation, continual washing, other contaminants, road salts, rains, on and on.

Only way to stop such aging and wear, place the vehicle in a glass case.

That my personal thoughts were that such paints aren't going to take a continual pounding with the washes, with the cleaner waxes, with polishing, that eventually something has to give, and that give in my case, and probably yours as well will be clear coat failure.

IMO, there's nothing out there at present as far as conventional waxes or sealants go, that will protect as well as a very good paint coating will.

That they are much more durable against washing induced marring, chemical and fallout attack, UV damage, etc. They will then become the sacrificial top and outermost coating layer upon the paint.

Such is not really open for debate IMO, as it is known fact coatings are much more durable and can offer a good number of benefits to a paint system, especially one that has seen better years.

I myself am a hobbyist, but on occasion have detailed other's vehicles not only over years, but many decades (I'm 63), but for my own personal vehicles, I feel a paint coating has become a no-brainer, and will be what I'll reach for.

That any future vehicle(s) I may ever acquire in the future, it will definitely be coated after decon and correction if needed. Same with all trim and wheels.

Hope this helps.
 
At 80 microns I wouldn’t even be thinking about abrasive polish of any kind.

Anything under 120 I start to get real cautious and take additional readings especially near edges.

You need an acrylic glaze of some kind so that you can top it with the sealant. Lots of guys like CG easy creme, not sure if blacklight or white light are acrylic, some others are out there. Then top with power lock or your choice of sealant


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This sounds like a job for something like CarPro Essence? Then top it with a ceramic coating of your choice and hopefully you'll be safe for a long while.
 
limited0602 said:
This sounds like a job for something like CarPro Essence? Then top it with a ceramic coating of your choice and hopefully you'll be safe for a long while.
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What about blackfires new paint cleaner? That is just filler as well right?

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Prima Amigo or the CG glazes. Most things sit on top of acrylic glazes with no problem.
 
Cruzscarwash said:
What about blackfires new paint cleaner? That is just filler as well right?

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Not really sure as I've never looked into it. I just remember reading that Essence can do what the OP is requesting, so I bought some myself to use on my Lincoln MKS that is swirl heaven right now.
 
limited0602 said:
Not really sure as I've never looked into it. I just remember reading that Essence can do what the OP is requesting, so I bought some myself to use on my Lincoln MKS that is swirl heaven right now.
Click to expand...
I thought it had a very light polish in it

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estcstm3 said:
Hi All,

I have a paint gauge and the paint is all reading around 80um so i do not want to do risk clear coat failure by correcting the paint. What specific products do you all recommend that will help fill the marring/wash induced swirls? And will last more than a wash or two? If its a glaze ideally it can be topped by a sealant Duragloss TPP, WG3.0 without affecting durability.

Also what are your typically paint thickness readings for the cars you are correcting, what numbers give you pause?

Thanks!
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My pick would be Poorboys World Black Hole if it's a black or dark colored car / White Diamond if it's white/silver. Then follow up with any quality sealant. That should cover up most of the defects so long as they aren't too terrible.
 
Essence Plus would be my choice. No abrasives and durable fillers with some SI02 protection. 80 microns would be the stop polishing point for me. A lot of factory clears are in the Nineties so the clear is really thin.
 
•IMO; and at this stage of the game:
-“filling-in” existing defects is an exercise
in futility. (You may wind up with the de-
fects becoming even more noticeable, if
they would wind up with dried-up product
in them.)


•If it was me:
-I’d wash and dry the vehicle; and
then apply a Sealant that “dries clear”.
-I believe WOWA Sealants would be
perfect for this task.


Bob
 
Cruzscarwash said:
I thought it had a very light polish in it

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Click to expand...

Looks like you're right (just looked it up). However, it looks like it can only be used with waxes or sealants and not a coating, like Essence can (since it's kind of coating itself from what I understand). I suppose it all depends on what the OP wants his LSP to be.
 
You guys and gals that have a paint thickness gauge how much does a finishing polish on a finishing pad cut the clearcoat in general?

To use essence on a glosspad does not seem to cut that much and does some filling to. You can use essence by hand too but have something in my mind that it is not as effective as when you get it to heat up to activate the resins and the sio2 in it. Maybe you get something out of it and hope it's the filling ability in it. Then go with the cquk which is the hardest of carpro coatings. And top it up with Gliss.

I have only experience with filling ability products not sold on AGO unfortuneally. It's both glazes and wax that I have used. One product I have heard about that is intresting to clearcoat paints is a liquid clearcoat as a primer for a coating.

What kind of car is it you have? Would it be worth for you to repaint it? Otherwise I would look to sell it in the near future.
 
I have measured new cars that are lower than 80um from Mercedes and VW.
 
Ronin47 said:
I have measured new cars that are lower than 80um from Mercedes and VW.
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Thanks for all the replies all. So the one car with some panels hitting the high 80's is a 2014 silverado that I bought at 38k miles. Never corrected by me and if it was corrected in those 36k miles i imagine it would have been only once. the range on my truck is 90-120 with most places alittle over 100.

I also have a honda and toyota and everywhere expect for when they have been professionally repainted (crash/dent damage), im also in the low 100's.

If i take readings on the door jams i get between 50-70 um for each car.

Thanks!

been thinking about PB glazes. I also still have an old bottle of menzerna P85RD , which i think became Menz 4500 (check my join date =). Was wondering if that would help.

For the one person who said they get nervous under 120 um what kind of cars? My highest readings barely hit that anywhere on any of my cars.

What is WOWA product? Did you mean WOWO wipe on wipe off?
 
DBAILEY said:
Prima Amigo or the CG glazes. Most things sit on top of acrylic glazes with no problem.
Click to expand...

pretty sure Amigo has some light abrasives in it. Don't quote me on that though
 
estcstm3 said:
For the one person who said they get nervous under 120 um what kind of cars? My highest readings barely hit that anywhere on any of my cars.
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I didn’t say I get nervous, I said I start to get more cautious and take more readings especially around edges.

Clear on average is between 1.5-2 mils which is 35-50 microns, according to defelsko. I think that’s a conservative estimate in that many cars unless brand new have been worked before, especially here in New England there’s a LOT of repaints, and let’s not forget the dealership monkeys with dusty old wool pads on rotaries.

There have been brand new Astons I’ve seen measure in the 130s, I had a 2012 Mercedes GLK that measured 120 or better in some spots, my test hood off an 01 f350 measures 130 in places and 90 in others. The list goes on. I think my 2017 gmc measures between 80-100 most places, likely a result (I think) of the modern water based paints not building film thickness as much. But that’s just a marginally-educated guess.

I used to LOVE po85rd. I believe it became SF4500 which has now become SFP-3800. I also have Jescar top finish machine glaze which to me is closer to PO85rd than 3800.


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