What did you do today, in regards to detailing?

yeah, 1.5 gal is 192 oz. 2% is a 32 oz container would be 2/3 oz but if that's the foam gun you connect to the hose, it would end up diluted down from the water from the hose. there's some videos (forensic detailing, etc) on calculating panel impact ratio for using a pressure washer. that would be similar.
I tried watching that video and I just gapped out, i don't like math and yeah I know it's important. I'm sure I can't use the same formula from my IK Foam 9 for my Foam Gun so I'm thinking about trying 2 oz in the 32 oz and going from there and adjust accordingly. I've sent emails and comments on YouTube vids but no help except from you and Crack...Thank you both for your help so far

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It was above freezing today (barely), so I went to the local coin op to pressure rinse, then did a rinseless ONR wash (the irony). Followed up with a wipe down of Griot’s Speed Shine since I know that plays decently well in the cold.


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Regular or Ceramic Speed Shine.


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Update… it just rained/sleeted :( … there was a 40% chance of snow with no inclement weather the rest of the week so I took the chance… did not pay off.

At least I still have 3.5 gallons of ONR mixed up and the high for tomorrow is above freezing (last time for the rest of the week). If the roads are dry by tomorrow afternoon I’ll do another rinseless wash.

Side note: there was AWESOME beading on the paint when I just went out to move the car into the garage. I gotta think that’s the Meg’s HCW I put on a couple months ago more so than the GG Speed Shine I just applied today, right?


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Speedshine will bead but not crazily. The ceramic SS beads better but non of griots products are bead monsters. Yeah most likely the HCW or combo of both.


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Speed Shine is definitely my favorite quick detailer that I’ve tried so far. I just didn’t think it had any protection in it, so that’s why I thought it would be the Meg’s HCW causing the water beading. But I suppose it would make sense if it was the SS, especially since it was just applied two hours before and the car wasn’t moved.

I’ve heard that the CSS doesn’t wipe/flash off as well.


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The CSS just takes a little more buffing because it has GC3-1 in it. Still pretty easy to use but not regular speed shine easy.

Think i’m going back to regular QD’s w/o protection. I add enough LSP’s where I don’t need the extra.


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Oh shoot, ya know what it was the Ceramic Window Cleaner that I heard that about


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I haven't used that glass cleaner and not sure when I will because I have a 500ML bottle of CarPro Clarity that has about 20% left, a fresh 1000ML bottle of Clarity and the TWHS Glass cleaner to use up first. Clarity isn't cheap and I'm trying to use that for the inside glass because of my tint. That said Griot's Garage has never let me down, I'm sure that glass cleaner isn't going to be the first

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The glass cleaner is a decent and definitely cheap form of protection. I feel it’s a better than CSS on glass and it’s cheaper.

I look at it as an after wash glass cleaner and then it’s fine. Haven’t tried to clean dirty glass with it so well see.


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I tried watching that video and I just gapped out, i don't like math and yeah I know it's important. I'm sure I can't use the same formula from my IK Foam 9 for my Foam Gun so I'm thinking about trying 2 oz in the 32 oz and going from there and adjust accordingly. I've sent emails and comments on YouTube vids but no help except from you and Crack...Thank you both for your help so far

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So mixing 2oz to 32 is like 6% in the container. When you spray through it mixes with water.

Trying to figure out PIR is time consuming but with most electric PW and foam cannon the mix in the bottle works out to near 50/50 of water an AF in container of foam cannon. With a foam gun and a hose with higher GPM i would start out minimum 25% touchless or autofoam and 75% water.


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Well, this just won't do!



The rest of the fleet has sat unused in the past week meaning the Ranger was the only one that needed attention, especially after a stormy stretch.

It was out with the Brake Buster for some wheel, tyre and wheel arch cleaning.







Wheels and arches topped up with Hydr02......



Cleaned and ready to dry, I love the black bezel of the base model Ranger lights, they look angry......







After a member on another forum had a little cheeky dig at a "smudge" on my detailing seat, I couldn't leave it like that!









I mean, he had a point, how could I let it get like that! Now I can sleep tonight! :laughing:

Ever thought of putting on some Mustang headlights, For the power ranger
Very bright with the stang DRL
 
I decided to try out the Turtle Wax Wheel & Tire Cleaner I bought a couple of weeks ago. First pic before, second during, third is how the run off looked, last is after it dried. I am impressed with the amount of brown it removed, but it doesn't look any better after, the wheel definitely isn't as glossy. I've never chemically cleaned these tyres before, so they probably need a few more treatments. I had a store credit at an auto shop, so I bought some Autoglym Instant Tyre Dressing to try out, but I'm hesitant to try it till I get rid of some more of the brown.
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Hey Dave, the brown or blooming comes to the surface of the tyre as the UV hits it
You can hit it untill the foam runs white. But generally a tyre thing that happens
Try BO Agent orange
 
Hey Dave, the brown or blooming comes to the surface of the tyre as the UV hits it
You can hit it untill the foam runs white. But generally a tyre thing that happens
Try BO Agent orange
I was looking at the tyres today, they look a lot less brown now than they did on the weekend, and I haven't put anything on them. I'll have to get some of that Agent Orange to try out, I have quite a few of their products, and most are pretty good.

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So mixing 2oz to 32 is like 6% in the container. When you spray through it mixes with water.

Trying to figure out PIR is time consuming but with most electric PW and foam cannon the mix in the bottle works out to near 50/50 of water an AF in container of foam cannon. With a foam gun and a hose with higher GPM i would start out minimum 25% touchless or autofoam and 75% water.


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Thank you so much Crack and Touchless impressed and it goes without saying that when it comes to removing winter muck, my Worx hydroshot doesn't have the power but the power of Touchless....amazing

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I tried watching that video and I just gapped out, i don't like math and yeah I know it's important. I'm sure I can't use the same formula from my IK Foam 9 for my Foam Gun so I'm thinking about trying 2 oz in the 32 oz and going from there and adjust accordingly. I've sent emails and comments on YouTube vids but no help except from you and Crack...Thank you both for your help so far

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Yeah. They're not the most exciting videos. One thought would be to use Griot's directions for surface prep as a basis. They recommend 0.5 oz for the pump up foamer and 2.0 oz for the foaming sprayer. If those end up being the same concentration, that would be ~2.5 oz of Touchless in the foaming sprayer (pretty close to what you thought about using).
 
So mixing 2oz to 32 is like 6% in the container. When you spray through it mixes with water.

Trying to figure out PIR is time consuming but with most electric PW and foam cannon the mix in the bottle works out to near 50/50 of water an AF in container of foam cannon. With a foam gun and a hose with higher GPM i would start out minimum 25% touchless or autofoam and 75% water.

Most people figure it out for 4% PIR, don't they? If so, we're maybe not too far off. Just different concentrations.
 
Regular or Ceramic Speed Shine.


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Sorry, is that a question? I used regular Speed Shine since I feel like a product with less "stuff" in it would perform better in near freezing temps -- however, I haven't scientifically tested that theory yet haha.

The CSS just takes a little more buffing because it has GC3-1 in it. Still pretty easy to use but not regular speed shine easy.

Think i’m going back to regular QD’s w/o protection. I add enough LSP’s where I don’t need the extra.


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I'm with you. I'd rather lay down a good base of protection, and then just use QDs as drying aids or for quick wipe downs. I like to have that control and knowledge of exactly what is on the paint.

Is there any real evidence for the "clogging the paint" theory where too many protectants or too many layers of different chemicals can yield worse results (as far as gloss, slickness, beading, etc.)?
 
Thank you so much Crack and Touchless impressed and it goes without saying that when it comes to removing winter muck, my Worx hydroshot doesn't have the power but the power of Touchless....amazing

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Yeah i love em and dilution in tje IK 12 is great. Can get 2 uses from one fill up. Just need a tire inflator to get it to pump faster


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Yeah. They're not the most exciting videos. One thought would be to use Griot's directions for surface prep as a basis. They recommend 0.5 oz for the pump up foamer and 2.0 oz for the foaming sprayer. If those end up being the same concentration, that would be ~2.5 oz of Touchless in the foaming sprayer (pretty close to what you thought about using).

I think the problem will be not proper PH at Surface Prep dilution. I don’t think BH is as concentrated.


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I think the problem will be not proper PH at Surface Prep dilution. I don’t think BH is as concentrated.


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I know it's not the same thing but Auto-Foam is a 13 pH and Touchless is a 12 pH.

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I’ve had my parent’s truck for a little while and so I took some time to give it a much needed vacuuming. My dad really can’t do it anymore so I’m glad I got the chance. And I think I’m going to order them some Weathertechs.

My parent’s have a wonderful Australian Shepherd which in Australian translates to sheds constantly.

Driver’s Front Before/After:



Rear with one side done followed by completed:


 
Nice job on the interior. I’m sure they felt great driving it down the road after a refresh.
 
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