How best to negotiate with dealer for new car price ?

Search CarGurus.com over the next month and watch the prices go up and down. You'll get the best deal at the end of the month. Get pre approved for your finance rate and compare rates with the dealership.

Detail your car before looking to trade it in or sell it. The Dealership will pay more for a clean car that doesn't need to be detailed. They need used cars on their lot. Trading in the old car does help with taxes on the new car. You have to figure what your old car is worth in the condition it's in and the mileage. Lets just say you think its worth 16k, but you're willing to sell it for 15K privately. How many people have 15K laying around to buy a used Toyota Camry? More than likely the buyer will need to shop around for a loan and will want you to hold the car for them until they get approved. The dealership would probably offer you around 10K, but if your car is really clean and in great shape with low mileage they might bump it up to 13K just to make the deal happen.

If the dealership offers you a great price on the new car and offers you a pretty good deal on the trade in I would go for it. You'll be in and out within a few hours. Selling the car privately could takes weeks - months.

You might want to look at other car brands too. Toyota and Honda don't really budge on their MSRP prices because they have no problem selling those cars. You'd probably get a better deal with Hyundai or Kia. I went with Dodge and got a huge discount off MSRP.

Good luck!
 
I've bought over 50 cars, most of those for myself, some for friends.

Start shopping mid month. Preferably on a slow month like January or February. Work with at least 3 dealers. Don't be afraid of shopping out of state. Don't focus on one particular car, at least don't let on that you have. Look at trucar.com and laugh at the lowest price. Try to beat that by at least half the difference between MSRP.

And listen to this for a clue of how things work behind the scenes.

129 Cars - This American Life
 
dcjredline said:
The worst car accidents happen on the showroom floor. My advice is to go 2-4 years used. Let someone else take the 25% depreciation that day and the other 15% over the next 3 years.
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Great advice on European, terrible for Honda and Toyota. I can buy those cheaper new than a 2-3 year old one with average mileage.
 
yakky said:
Great advice on European, terrible for Honda and Toyota. I can buy those cheaper new than a 2-3 year old one with average mileage.
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Yea no kidding

Same thing with lower model pickups


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Oz_TCH said:
got an offer that looks pretty good.

MSRP: $39,144.00
Your Exclusive Truecar Buying Service Price: $33,024.00
Processing Fee: $689.00
Sales Tax (VA): $1,496.55
DMV Fees (VA): $73.75



what's processing fee ? dealer add on profit ?
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i would ask to see the invoice (compare it to the price you are offered, and with other online buying services), but other than that it seems like a good deal. just make sure to read the fine print and not pay for any additional things that aren't needed...
 
Negotiate from the parking lot. Never go in and sit down. That’s exactly where the want you. In fact, negotiate with one foot in your own car. Sounds absurd but it works.


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Here's my way of buying/leasing

Dealer invoice price, minus hold back, minus incentives. No delear fees as they are just deal padding and definitely no money down.

If you follow that model you get the car you want at the lowest possible price. Don't believe "we have to charge you fee" BS on anything but taxes and reg. Most states cap the fee a dealer can charge as a processing fee but none that I know mandate it. Basic math is that at $500 per car X 250 cars monthly =$125000 in profits or residual payments on loans and leases. Don't look for the oldest car in inventory either as it's old and tired of sitting on a lot wearing away. Get a fresh of the truck model. They rent these cars on their lots so new inventory that sells fast earns more money for them old inventory just losses value that you get on a discount. Might sound like a good deal but a car that has sat for months on lot is in worse shape than one driven in the same time period. Also dont get hung up on monthly payments as any payment you want can be made with creativity. Never negotiate under any circumstance from the MSRP as once you do your already be losing. If MSRP was the price of the vehicle it would not be listed as manufactures SUGGESTED retail price. Lastly the invoice posted is not an original and had about $1000 cost added besides the dealer fee.

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Your price you were offered looked not bad. If you are happy where they have you then by all means go for it

You can ask them what the fee is. Doesn’t hurt. Probably get some sort of paperwork processing/title work answer

I tried the Costco service in Feb March and the dealer rep called me with the price. I was shooting the breeze with him and he’s like look my “internet price “ is cheaper I can give it to you for that. Then I talked to a couple other dealers on their internet price and I saw even a little more discount.

So don’t go thinking true car etc is the cheapest it could be, but also not always so

You get a feel pretty quick on email from sales if they really want to make a deal or are trying to take you. If they don’t really give you the info you requested and just ask when you can come in to test drive. They usually don’t have the best price for you in mind. They want you to feel pressured behind the wheel on a test drive and fall in love with the car you already have decided on anyways without time to think about the numbers in your face


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Bought this new Rogue last Sunday. Out the door for $7,000 off sticker.
852925075f738c233784cd6e11f2a6cd.jpg


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I was the general manager of a Porsche Audi dealership for five years in the 90s, and then went on the manufacture side and was a regional manager for BMW for 20 years until I retired. There are great suggestions above, true car, writing one price down etc. I can tell you that there is not much money anymore in the product. About 6 to 7 to 8%, but then there are backend subsidies to the dealers of another 4% or 5%.

I would just add this, get your financing together and walk in and do not talk to anybody except the working floor sales manager, General sales manager or whatever they’re calling that position in the dealership. Be very blunt with him, tell him you are there to do a deal and that you will take the car today if everything is right. Dealers hate people who jack them around and Lord knows we do that… Tell him that you want to talk to somebody who is a veteran and has a good CSI score with the manufacture. Believe me they want to do a quick deal just as much as you do. I stress to get your financing together outside the dealership (unless you are using a factory subsidy), because that will elim you getting jacked around by the F and I guy.

And do not think you have any type a deal at all unless you have a SIGNED BUYERS ORDER signed by the general sales manager or floor manager, not the salesman .....On the buyers order put EVERYTHING that you want after the fact; if you want a rental car every time you come in , put that down, if you want it washed on a normal basis, put that down. If you want status reports because you’re ordering a car, put that down. Have the sales manager initial those comments.

And then MOST IMPORTANTLY, when the car comes in , don’t spend a lot of time going through the features, you can read that by yourself. You need to figure out how the car looks when you inspect It so that there is nothing you can get blamed for later as ABUSE or road hazard.. This certainly means paint , swirls , dents, dings, things like that. Even if something doesn’t work like a seat heater or something, that’s not as important because that will be warranty no matter who did it. DONT LEAVE until you are perfectly satisfied with that car, because once you leave, sometimes it’s like getting blood out of a stone.

I’ve done this exact same thing at three dealerships where I moved and knew no one, and didn’t have any special “ins”… it works well.
 
BSoares said:
The last one I got I contacted 3 dealers in the area via email. Didn't give them a phone number. Used the emails from each to get the others to lower their price, they all kept lowering prices trying to win the business. Eventually got the dealer I wanted (which had the car in stock) to agree on the lowest price of the three. Came over that night with the deal already set so we just had to test drive the car and sign the papers.
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This is my technique also. I'll also contact dealers in nearby cities, in my case Milwaukee or Chicago. You can generally tell who wants to move a car. If a car is super popular, nobody's going to give me a deal on it, so I try not to get my heart set on any particular make/model before I get the lay of the land.
 
We bought a 2019 Camry XSE V -6 for the wife last Oct and she gets about 24.5mpg mix city and highway. Little disappointed in that. And yes the shift points on the transmission are take some getting used to. It does shift solid though. So far so good. We got 5% below dealer invoice out the door.
 
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