1st Time DA Polish Project - Shadow Black Mustang

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gatornek

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Hi. Wanted to get my first thread going on my first project on my car, with a dual action polisher. This will also be my first time decontaminating my car, and claying it.

Up and until now, I always washed and then simply applied some carnauba wax on top. The results right after waxing were always fantastic, but after a few weeks, and a few wash jobs without the wax, the imperfections in the paint would start to come through in the glaring light. So I'd find myself simply slapping another coat of wax on there all over again.

Here is a pic of my car without having waxed it in a few weeks. Looks nice. That is, until you get up close in the glaring light, and you can see all the fine scratches.
View attachment 67522

View attachment 67523
View attachment 67524

So I have collected the following supplies, to go along with my 'regular' wash and wax supplies.

7424 Porter Cable
6 inch backing plate
(3) 6.5 inchChemical Guy Foam Pads (each of different cut)
3D Polish
Adams Iron remover

View attachment 67526

Here is my basic plan:


  • Wash car, remove all dirt (much like you see it in the pic).
  • Decontaminate with Adams Iron Remover
  • Rinse
  • Dry
  • Clay with Meguiars kit using Meguiars Detailing Spray as lubricant.
  • Polish
  • Wax with Carnauba

Here are my initial questions right off the bat.

A) I need more foam pads. Everyone seems to agree that Lake Country is the way to go. Can you please tell me, based on the scratches on my car, and my goals, how many and what type I might need? My idea is I need orange to go with my 3D polish? But should I also get white or green for subsequent passes of the 3D? Would I need blue or black for the carnauba? My thought was to hand apply the carnauba, maybe. idk.

B) Can someone suggest a solid carnauba wax. I've been using Turtle Wax, much to the chagrin of some detailing professionals (wink, wink, AZ Paul...lol). I REALLY, REALLY enjoy the soft, melty glow of the carnauba, so I'd like something that delivers the same, but maybe longer than what the turtle wax can offer?

C) Is there anything in particular I need to be careful about when decontaminating with Iron Remover? Should I do it when the car is wet or dry? Do I spray liberally all over the car or only in certain places? How long before I rinse off?


That's really all for right now. I've been watching a lot of Mike's videos and I'm sure I'll have some specific questions about polishing with the DA when I get ready to get to it.

Thank you all for any help and for pointing me in the right direction.
 
Looking at what you posted you have 3D Speed which is an all in one. Meaning it cleans, polishes and protects.

Unless there is a product missing from your photo.
 
The PC is a great machine.

But...... Do yourself a big favor and switch out the 6" backing plate and pads for the 5" set up.

You'll be MUCH happier, believe me.
 
PaulMys said:
The PC is a great machine.

But...... Do yourself a big favor and switch out the 6" backing plate and pads for the 5" set up.

You'll be MUCH happier, believe me.
Click to expand...

Will do. That plus the fact that I need more pads, period...has led me to postpone my job until next weekend.

Any particular colors I should 'stock up' on for this job? Orange is the main one I need right? But will I also need green & white for polishing passes (to soften the abrasiveness with subsequent passes) or even blue or black for the wax phase (if I choose to not apply via hand)?
 
B. If you want to have a little more durability from a carnuaba wax I would go with Collinite Marque D’Elegance Carnauba Paste Wax No. 915. Depending on the environment you live in around 3-5 months longevity from it. If you want to have even longer longevity from it I would go with Collinite 476s that has a long durability. Just remember that if you use an AIO which has it's own protection in it you could degrade the longevity from the wax or sealant applyied on top of it. And if lucky the longevity is not so much impacted.

Collinite Marque D?Elegance Carnauba Paste Wax #915, car wax, paste auto wax

Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax No. 476

C. The thing with iron remover or any chemical products is to not let them dry on the paint. So much depending on the temperature how long it can dwell and how large of a section you can apply it on. Work in the shade and out of the sunlight is very important to do.

It can be a little hard to see on black and darker paints when the color changing is happening. You useally see when it has turned to a very dark purple shade of color. Around 3-5 minutes in normal temperature and when it's colder up to 10 minutes. This also depends on the brand of iron remover too. Try a panel like the roof or hood or trunk lid first and see how long it can dwells before rinsing it off. Then you know about how long it can dwell and how long it takes to rinse it off. And how large of a section you can apply it on.

The safest in beginning is to work in sections you feel comfortable to do. It can be that you don't get any color changing at some areas. This means you don't have any iron particals or industrial fallout on these areas. Since you have not done it before I would go with apply it on the whole car so you know that it's free from iron particals and industrial fallout. If you see sections on the paint where there is much of the color changing spots. I would after the first application and rinse off try a little area again there to see if it has desolved the iron particals and rinsed it off.

On some you can need to be doing a couple of applications with the iron remover. The second time if you see it's bleeding from spots still. When it has turned fully purple you aggitate it with a mf towel gently. This makes the iron remover very more effective when doing this.

And last I always apply the iron remover on dry paint to let it work without being diluted with the standing water on my paint. Also use Nitrile gloves when you working with chemicals.


:)
 
Yes definitely go to 5” pads. I don’t know the PC D/A well and my machine is a long throw. I used the ccs pads and the worked well on our paint with the boss 15. Wouldn’t hesitate to recommend those.

I’ve read the LC flats work great with the Griots 8mm and similar to PC so I think those would be best.

Order a 12 pack at least 5 orange 4 green and 3 blue to start.

I would wax by hand if your good with that still. If money not important I’ve read souveran and fusion from Autogeek I here looks great on black but very expensive. Zymol has a all carnauba product that interests me.

If your ok with liquid waxes check out Polish Angel black wolfenite or gold zirkon.

If not wanting to spend a lot check out dodo juice waxes.

Make sure to use an iron remover too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
SWETM said:
B. If you want to have a little more durability from a carnuaba wax I would go with Collinite Marque D’Elegance Carnauba Paste Wax No. 915. Depending on the environment you live in around 3-5 months longevity from it. If you want to have even longer longevity from it I would go with Collinite 476s that has a long durability. Just remember that if you use an AIO which has it's own protection in it you could degrade the longevity from the wax or sealant applyied on top of it. And if lucky the longevity is not so much impacted.
Click to expand...

There's a sizzling hot, humid Florida summer happening right now. Putting wax on top of the 3D degrades the 3D longevity, or degrades the wax longevity?

SWETM said:
C. The thing with iron remover or any chemical products is to not let them dry on the paint.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. So working in the shade, keeping it wet, and working in small sections would be fairly key for a noob like me. Thank you.
 
The Guz said:
Looking at what you posted you have 3D Speed which is an all in one. Meaning it cleans, polishes and protects.

Unless there is a product missing from your photo.
Click to expand...

I haven't decided on which carnauba to use for the last step. Is it feasible to put carnauba on top of 3D? Thank you.
 
gatornek said:
There's a sizzling hot, humid Florida summer happening right now. Putting wax on top of the 3D degrades the 3D longevity, or degrades the wax longevity?



Gotcha. So working in the shade, keeping it wet, and working in small sections would be fairly key for a noob like me. Thank you.
Click to expand...

Some like 3D Speed and it's durability. But many also complains about the longevity. So a split decision LOL. Speed has a polymer and Montan wax blend and to be honest I don't know how it's longevity is on it's own. See some top it up with a sealant and are satisfied with the results. I like to get as much as synergy as possible. So in this case I would look at a Montan wax based wax. BLACKFIRE BlackICE Hybrid Montan Sealant Wax is one option that seems interesting. And Dodo Juice Purple Haze PRO Soft Wax is another wax with some Montan wax in it. Montan wax suits black and dark colors very good.

BLACKFIRE BlackICE Hybrid Montan Sealant Wax, best black car wax

Dodo Juice Purple Haze PRO Soft Wax, Dark soft wax, car wax, auto wax, dodo juice carnauba waxes

The Collinite 915 is a quality carnuaba wax that will not disappoint you. If you want to use an AIO maybe the Blackfire One Step Finish AIO is an option. I like to get the finish with a good finishing polish and finishing pad to get the highest gloss possible. Then apply a LSP to seal the work in. This is just personal preference. If you go with the 915 and apply it over speed and it would fail sooner than expected. It's not any problem to do a thorough wash and apply the 915 on it's own. Also notice that you get 12oz with 915 and 3oz with the others. For the quality of the 915 you get a lot of quality carnuaba wax and which useally you get to pay way more for.
 
Here is what I've boiled down to:

Id like to keep one familiar step, so before I move to any type of "polymer blends" or "montan wax", I'm going to stick with carnauba paste wax for the last step.

I have this:

1) 12 oz of Collins 915
2) 8 oz of McKees 37 Carnauba paste wax
3) 3 oz of Black Fire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba

The Souveran looks awesome but might be a little out of my price range, idk.

I don't mind spending a little extra money on a quality product, even if its a smaller amount. Its a good way to 'try it'. If I end up liking it, I can pick up more on the next "wax up".

What do you guys think?

Stick with the Collins 915? Does the Souveran have a 3 oz size? 3oz should be good for ONE PASS on a Mustang, no? I think so.
 
gatornek said:
I haven't decided on which carnauba to use for the last step. Is it feasible to put carnauba on top of 3D? Thank you.
Click to expand...

Any AIO/cleaner wax can be topped with a wax or sealant with no issues.
 
Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax

Here you have the Souverän wax in 3oz jar.

Sometimes it's just fun to try out other products. The 3 you listed is great waxes so you will be fine with those. And there are many waxes to try out LOL. Also down the road if you want to go with more longer lasting sealants and coating products there are a lot of them that is really great too. Spray on and wipe off products you get the ease of use with. A great ceramic coating last around 2 years if you properly maintain it and don't swirl it up with a bad washing and drying technique. So there are many different abilities that you value and which will suit you. The most popping of the finish you get from polishing it.
 
My 67 GTO arrived chock full of swirls and holograms. I applied Souveran by hand to the single stage paint after DA compounding and polishing. As I removed the Souveran, the deep shine was amazing. The car absolutely glows in the sunshine. I get positive comments every time I show it. Souveran doesn't have the longevity of some of other products since it is a true "Show Car" Wax. It's expensive, but worth every penny in my opinion. If you decide to try the Souveran, be sure to let it thoroughly dry before wiping off to get the best bond to the surface.

View attachment 67531
 
gatornek said:
Any particular colors I should 'stock up' on for this job? Orange is the main one I need right? But will I also need green & white for polishing passes (to soften the abrasiveness with subsequent passes) or even blue or black for the wax phase (if I choose to not apply via hand)?
Click to expand...

Orange and white are what I have the most of as they are ones that cut the best with a polish.

I have 12 of each, but you could get by with 4-5 to start.

Blue, black, and even red for jeweling/waxing. You only need a couple of these.
 
Decided on Collins 915.

Also ordered my 5 inch backing plate, and a bunch of 5.5 LC CSS pads.
And I added to that (6) Supreme 530 Microfiber towels.

I was looking for hand applicator pads in case the Collins did not come with one, but couldn't find any on AGO shop.

Thanks again everyone, I will keep you posted as I further gather my materials and get down to the nitty gritty.
 
gatornek said:
Decided on Collins 915.

Also ordered my 5 inch backing plate, and a bunch of 5.5 LC CSS pads.
And I added to that (6) Supreme 530 Microfiber towels.

I was looking for hand applicator pads in case the Collins did not come with one, but couldn't find any on AGO shop.

Thanks again everyone, I will keep you posted as I further gather my materials and get down to the nitty gritty.
Click to expand...

Think you will be very satisfied with the 915. Apply to a panel at the time and wipe it off. And as with most Collinite waxes you apply as thin as possible. So do not let it to fully dry on the paint or it can be a little more hard to remove. Some use a damp foam applicator to get it to apply thin and evenly.
 
So obviously, the part that terrifies me the most is actually using a machine DA polisher, with "cutting pads", and a "cutting agent" on my car. I do understand that technique is everything and I have been watching a lot of the swirl remover videos to fully understand Mike's concepts on section passes, overlap, and "R" motion (do I have that right?).

The basic premise is pick a small spot, use your product, buff it off, and inspect the results. Swirls still there? Go more aggressive with either a more aggressively cutting pad, or cutting agent. Swirls gone? Then you are on your way to getting your system down pat.

But how do I know that I'm not starting at a place that is ALREADY MORE AGGRESSIVE than where "I'm at"? Is it possible that using a Orange Lake Country CSS pads with 3D Speed and a DA, might actually leave scratches behind, that weren't there before??? Since Orange is where I'll be starting, I want to make sure I'm clear here.

Thanks!
 
If its Speed you are using, I agree with Paul. It's an AIO and if using an AIO then you dont want to go around 63x with orange and white pads.

If using orange then white might as well use a dedicated compound and polish.

I too use more orange and white than anything. Wool and MF as well for tougher jobs, etc. Some black for fun...

The polishing is cross hatch... not just 'R's.... r, l, r, l, r, l, up, down, up, down, overlapping....

Good luck and post some pics later!...

Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Absolutely start with white pads but don't fear orange pads if you need it.
 
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