1976 Corvette Original Single Stage Paint - Paint Correction and Waxing

Great work!! Love that color on the Vette. As an owner of two 70s Oldsmobiles, I have really grown to appreciate the unique colors of 70s rides. I wish some more cars today would think outside the box a bit more with colors.
 
IH8SPM said:
Mike, despite the pandemic affecting the world its nice to see some shinny paint.
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Thanks.

Here's the deal - I have hundreds, even thousands of pictures from recent detailing work that I can stay busy doing nothing but processing pictures and typing out information.

It's easier to go out to the garage and detail a car than it is to do something with the pictures taken during the project. So I have to practice balance.

I invested 3 days in the1946 Dodge but I'll get 5 product reviews and how-to out of it and as long as Autogeek pays their server bill, the pictures and information will endure forever.


This came in yesterday

How-to Wetsand using the Scuff and Buff Technique - 1937 Ford Woody


And I have an original oxidized paint 1939 Ford Coupe coming in today for the #7 Treatment. I'll share pictures later today.


:)
 
:updated:


For everyone that asked me about or was interested in WHY I didn't do the #7 treatment to this Corvette, which was a great question, (wrong condition of paint), I will be showing the right condition of paint to use this approach here,


The Number #7 Rub Down Technique for Original Single Stage Paint - All original 1938 Packard


People have been asking me for years, even a decade now to make a video showing The Number #7 Rub Down Technique for original and antique single stage paint. All these years I've been waiting for the right car to demo this technique plus capture the before and after pictures.

Today my long-time friend, Mike Stowe brought me his all original 1938 Packard with the original paint from 1938.



Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze

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All original 1938 Packard with the original factory single stage lacquer paint

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Stay tuned.... and share the link to this thread with your friends.


:)
 
:bump:


Here's a video I made that walks through the process I used. This is hosted on my Facebook page. You don't have to have a Facebook account to watch the video. Just click on the link to launch the video.

Make sure you have your speakers on and the "sound" button and bar in the lower right hand corner of the video screen is on and turned up.


Mike Phillips - Original Paint - 1976 Corvette




:)
 
When you take on a vehicle with paint like this, do you lessen the amount of passes you make when you compound? I.E. you always talk about 6-8 section passes, but when the paint is this poor, do you cut the pass number back, use a less aggressive pad/compound, or run the machine at a slower speed with the same pass count? Thank you.
 
Spikey Mike said:
When you take on a vehicle with paint like this, do you lessen the amount of passes you make when you compound?

I.E. you always talk about 6-8 section passes, but when the paint is this poor, do you cut the pass number back, use a less aggressive pad/compound, or run the machine at a slower speed with the same pass count?

Thank you.
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It just depends on the paint and the goal.


This paint was for all practical reasons - shot.

It already had thin spots throughout the various panels. I explained to the owner that if I buff hard enough to remove the oxidation, stains, spots and swirls and scratches where the paint is already thin - it's going to make these thin areas GROW.

He understood this and okayed me to proceed with my best judgment. And I think I included somewhere in this write-up what it would cost to repaint this car versus let me hammer on it and squeeze whatever shine was left out of the old girl and then drive it like you stole it.

The paint was in REALLY BAD CONDITION and as I preach and teach, I tried using the least aggressive approach but it wasn't making enough of a difference to where you could stand back, look at the car and say,

Wow! Now that looks much better

So again, using my best judgement with all factors taking into consideration, I chopped on it pretty hard and the results are as NICE as this paint is going to get without spending $30,000.00 for a re-paint.


One thing I think I have working for me is years of experience and the ability to adequately test and make final judgement calls.


Great question, thank you for asking.



And - I have an original paint 1972 Corvette coming up and it is HAMMERED! Much worse than the paint on this car.



Stay tuned...



:)
 
Looking through all your posts of all these single stage paint corrections. I'm building up my confidence to be able to work on, through learning from your experience. I can't wait to one day build up the eye for making these kinds of judgement calls.

For that I just have to say thank you and can't wait to get my hands on one.
 
Cameron said:
Looking through all your posts of all these single stage paint corrections. I'm building up my confidence to be able to work on, through learning from your experience.

I can't wait to one day build up the eye for making these kinds of judgement calls.

For that I just have to say thank you and can't wait to get my hands on one.
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I love restoring original and antique single stage paint and once in a while I have the right car to use for a class. Like this 1940 Chevy we had for a Roadshow Class.

1940 Buick -Before & After - EXTREME extreme Makeover!



And since this is your first post, welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:




:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
More....


Here's the short answer to the question about why I didn't use the #7 Rub Down Technique for the paint on this car.


It didn't have chalky oxidized paint.


The #7 Rub Down Technique is for a car that has the original, antique paint that has turned chalky. The chalkiness is oxidation.


A hard shine
Yes this paint was oxidized but it still has a hard shine to it. This is a picture I took after the car arrived and BEFORE I did anything to it. See the hard shine to the surface?

1967_Vette_001.JPG




The paint is NOT chalky. In fact, the surface was almost case-hardened with time. There was light oxidation, you can see a little green paint came off the car and onto the clay bar, but there was not tons of green paint i.e. oxidation coming off when I clayed it.

The paint was simply aged, stained, spotted and filled with swirls and scratches.

The #7 would not have done anything to bring the paint back to life so I first tried the very safe BLACKFIRE One Step and when that wouldn't cut through the years of hardening, I resorted to the Pinnacle Advanced Compound.


I guess it's a judgement call as to when to use the #7 technique or not and the judgment comes from years of experience buffing out just about everything under the sun.


:)
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Thanks Mike! It's very interesting to see how you dialed in the process. Awesome job!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
PaulMys said:
That thing looks 100x better now, Mike.

I always like the pics of the machine "trails" when applying product.

When I polish, I kind of use these as a gauge to keep my arm speed in check. Lol.
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I'd have never thought of that. That is really awesome!!! Thank you for sharing this tid bit.
 
Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN said:
I'd have never thought of that. That is really awesome!!! Thank you for sharing this tid bit.
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Lol. Thanks, Jake.

I'm sure I am not the first guy to do this, but it was just something that I noticed after my first few machine polishing sessions back in the day.

I'll bet my first one had the trail marks 3-4" apart. :laughing:
 
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