Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?

HAMBO

HAMBO

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Hi AG,

SO, I bought my 1967 Camaro already restored. From what I can tell it was somewhat of a budget restoration and not a full frameoff / no expense spared restoration.

Regarding the paint: I think the paint itself looks quite good. Color is nice, deep, and very shiny. It was swirl-city when I got it, but I have since had it corrected, polished and coated. Pic of the car below.

Problem I am having, is the clear coat seems to be incredibly soft (I sneeze and swirl marks show up...), and for whatever reason doesn't play well with waterless washes or quick detailers. Often when I use a WW or QD, after buffing it off I see trails of the product remaining on the clear coat (tried to take a picture below). Kind of like streaking or staining.

Now, admittedly I know swirls don't just show up out of nowhere, so I'm obviously causing them, but I'm generally pretty careful with maintenance, and only drive the car 2x or so times a month, so am just surprised at the pace at which swirls seems to be coming back post correction. I do keep it under a cover indoors, so I suspect taking the cover on / off might be part of the problem.

Any ideas on whether it might be a very soft / sensitive or poor quality clear coat? Any suggestion on ways to mask some of the swirls without removing the coating (will try Essence Plus since I have that already).

Thanks!

HAMBO

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Some repainted clears are just super soft and sensitive. I have 2 of them. One is black and one is candy apple red. I swear the moonlight even causes swirls. Just have to be careful touching, don’t use a car cover, use great quality towels and avoid rinseless and waterless washes if possible. Nothing beats the bucket method with lots of free flowing water.


Washing one of mine is what sparked me to post this:

Oldie but goodie: Pinnacle Souveran spray wax
 
From the pic it looks like streaking from your waterless wash. Could be from using too much product or poor quality towels being used for removal.

Hope this helps!
 
Just to note,

Soft paint is a paint in the butt. A good coating should help reduce the potential for marring when wiping.

Some coatings are rubbery and this shows up when you try to wipe the paint with a towel, the towel will feel like it's trying to "stick" to the paint instead of glide over it.


This is one reason I like the PBL Paint Coating and the PBL Surface Coating - both make the paint feel slippery and towels glide over the paint instead of stick to it.


Another way to maintain a soft finish is with a good cleaner/wax. When the "wax" or "sealant" portion dries, (after application), it acts as a lubricant for wiping off the residue. Kind of a dry lubricant. So instead of trying to maintain a coated car, re-polish the entire Camaro with a quality one-step that you like and after fully letting it dry, wipe it off.

Then down the road, if you see "anything" on the finish, just buzz over it with a super soft foam finishing pad and you one-step, let it dry and then wipe-off.

This is "one way" to maintain a show car finish. It does mean buzzing around the car before a car show to re-perfect the paint but once you get the finish to where you have it now this is fast and easy. And nothing looks as good as a just waxed car.


:)
 
And by the way, Awesome car. Looks like a SS-396. Am I right?
 
Sizzle Chest said:
From the pic it looks like streaking from your waterless wash. Could be from using too much product or poor quality towels being used for removal.

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

Mike Phillips said:
Like Scott said, what the pictures shows are streaks of product.


What are you using for towels?

What are you using for a coating?

What do you use for your spray-on product?


:)
Click to expand...

Thanks. I've tried a variety of towels (RagCo Eagles, Cobras, Griot's PFM) and waterless washes (Ultima, McKee's, really trying those with fewer gloss enhancers) and keep getting them same result. :confused:

My latest suspicion is that it might be a combination of the clear coat characteristics, and also the panel heat. Given I'm in SoCal and how quickly the panels on these older cars get hot, maybe I'm just spraying the paint while it's too hot and need to let the car sit inside and cool down more. I don't have my own garage, so park at a garage nearby where I went rent a spot and typically wipe down the car before leaving. Maybe it's just too hot to do so?
 
Dr Oldz said:
Some repainted clears are just super soft and sensitive. I have 2 of them. One is black and one is candy apple red. I swear the moonlight even causes swirls. Just have to be careful touching, don’t use a car cover, use great quality towels and avoid rinseless and waterless washes if possible. Nothing beats the bucket method with lots of free flowing water.


Washing one of mine is what sparked me to post this:

Oldie but goodie: Pinnacle Souveran spray wax
Click to expand...

Thanks, sounds like you feel the same pain!

I had been using exclusively waterless (and the occasional rinseless) washes after reading Mike's article about best practices in taking care of older cars. Have you had any issues using lots of water on an older car?

Thanks!
 
In addition to Mike and Scott, are you applying ww / QD in sunlight? Also what water did you use for your dilution?

Looks like streaking as product dries on the paint. Shade is best, dilution with distilled water is best, using two towel method is best, one for waterless wash with a thick nap and the other a shorter nap.

Beautiful car. I think at best, keep it clean and pretty, drive it, take it to shows and enjoy it. These days especially, life’s to short to chase swirls and scratches.

What you see on your car is on mine too when I do a WW. Here in AZ the air temp is so hot it just dries before it can be fully wiped.

Paul G.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Mike Phillips said:
Just to note,

Another way to maintain a soft finish is with a good cleaner/wax. When the "wax" or "sealant" portion dries, (after application), it acts as a lubricant for wiping off the residue. Kind of a dry lubricant. So instead of trying to maintain a coated car, re-polish the entire Camaro with a quality one-step that you like and after fully letting it dry, wipe it off.

Then down the road, if you see "anything" on the finish, just buzz over it with a super soft foam finishing pad and you one-step, let it dry and then wipe-off.

This is "one way" to maintain a show car finish. It does mean buzzing around the car before a car show to re-perfect the paint but once you get the finish to where you have it now this is fast and easy. And nothing looks as good as a just waxed car.


:)
Click to expand...

Sigh...I think you might be right Mike. I had coated it with the hope that the coating would have improved the scratch resistance and charge the surface characteristics enough so as avoid some of the marring and streaking. Appears not to have done the trick. For now I may just keep it as is since the coating is only about a year old and seems to be holding up well in terms of gloss, slickness and water resistance, but next time around, using something easier to apply and reapply, with the occasional light polishing in between, may be the route to go.

Thanks!
 
Your car is a prime candidate for a Ceramic Coating. That will "toughen up the paint" that such a soft paint won't keep getting hammered, even when just taking off a car cover. The question is, "what coating"?

I've used a couple so called coatings, and bought right here, and I didn't think they were any better than a regular sealant, or even a WOWA sealant.

In fact, I thought they were worse. And yeah, one of them was Pinnacle Black Label, cost me an arm and a leg. I'll never buy PBL again. Left me very un-impressed

Go with CQuartz UK, problem solved!

Oh, and if you haven't done such in some time, wash the cover! A dirty cover does cause sleeks and marring.

So, with that said, are you up to the task to again finish polish, prep and coat?

Have a D/A, Pads, the right chemicals? If not, you perhaps should have, and learn to use them.
 
Or, you could go the simple route.... Buy a bottle of good glaze. Poor Boys is outstanding (Black Hole). Apply, and finish-top with a good sealant or wax.

Wolfgang 3.0 is good, Collinite is good, I'll take and use either versus PBL!

Colly #845 is very good, #915, or especially #476 is tougher yet.

One question I hadn't asked, how old is the paint? Did they-you perhaps toy with it before full cure-dry time?

Some paint jobs, there's no baking, lights, zero, simply done in somebody's garage is all.
 
HAMBO said:
Thanks, sounds like you feel the same pain!

I had been using exclusively waterless (and the occasional rinseless) washes after reading Mike's article about best practices in taking care of older cars. Have you had any issues using lots of water on an older car?

Thanks!
Click to expand...


All seals are in great shape. Also no pressure washer. Just a garden hose. I will also blow dry so no water sits anywhere. So I haVe had zero issues.
 
HAMBO said:
Thanks, sounds like you feel the same pain!

I had been using exclusively waterless (and the occasional rinseless) washes after reading Mike's article about best practices in taking care of older cars. Have you had any issues using lots of water on an older car?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Using water period on these vintage classics is a mortal sin!

Two Bucket washes, grit guards, foam guns and all that other whacky BS is fine for a newer Korean Hyundai S&ht Box. You do NOT want water going down inside door panels, or anywhere else where it will sit for eons and cause rusting.

Carpro H2O is a very good all purpose waterless wash-detailer. There's many more. Step up your game, this isn't an everyday car.

As I said in an earlier reply, a tough coating might save you tons of grief. But can you apply it, or pay some fly by night hack $700 to do it?

There's an old saying "Too many Chefs spoil the Cake"
 
MarkD51 said:
Using water period on these vintage classics is a mortal sin!

Two Bucket washes, grit guards, foam guns and all that other whacky BS is fine for a newer Korean Hyundai S&ht Box. You do NOT want water going down inside door panels, or anywhere else where it will sit for eons and cause rusting.

Carpro H2O is a very good all purpose waterless wash-detailer. There's many more. Step up your game, this isn't an everyday car.

As I said in an earlier reply, a tough coating might save you tons of grief. But can you apply it, or pay some fly by night hack $700 to do it?

There's an old saying "Too many Chefs spoil the Cake"
Click to expand...


Thanks for the perspectives.

Yes, I have CarPro ECH2O, hasn't solved the problem. Per original post car is already ceramic coated, which I had hoped would help, but didn't really do the trick as hoped.
 
This seems to be just left over liquid. Try using distilled water and double check the dilution ratios. I'd also suggest doing a final wipe after you WW/RW your car. The streaks of left over lubrication should be just fine if you spritz the towel with a little bit of distilled water.
 
HAMBO said:
Thanks! Indeed it is, though original motor is long gone.



Indeed there is, but the 396 was introduced midway through production of the 67s.
Click to expand...

Sorry for my mis-information, I should know better since I did once own a '68SS396.

Yours then is quite a rare vehicle. Is there still a big block under the hood may I ask?

I'm hoping what you are experiencing is not so much soft paint, but as others have touched upon, possible residues left behind? Your comments though seem to say otherwise.

I know you have mentioned you car had been coated, but I think all who have used various coatings will agree, all are not created equal.

I was not trying to offend either PBMG, or users of certain coatings when I spoke of Pinnacle Black Diamond, or others I've also tried. There's products who have their fans and detractors.

I'll admit many of these spray and wipe coatings hold advantage of ease of use, and how I've also read about more than a few having problems with some coatings like CQuartz. Various application issues with high spots left behind, water spotting, on and on.

But I would say without any revocation, that coatings like CQuartz are some of the most durable consumer available coatings to be had. That a product such as CQ UK does leave behind a very hard top protective layer to any and all paints.

When I first used CQ UK, I was very pleased of the hardness and durability of the coating.

Also sorry about mis-naming CP ECH20. I do have this product on hand and like it.
 
So HAMBO, is it a true SS396?? Just curious due to the somewhat rarity of one. Sorry if I'm "beating a dead horse" here LOL.
 
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