Coating single stage paint - should you?

briarpatch

briarpatch

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I saw a post on a FB detailing group, where the poster said that he did a ceramic coating on single stage paint. Is this something you can/should do? I thought I'd remembered reading that you shouldn't.
 
New/modern day SS paint is good to go. You can run into 'streaking/patchy/blotchy' spots on some older/old school SS paint in my experience.
 
honestly on a 2000 truck like that, I would be more inclined to play with some megs #7, then polish it up and lay on nice quality sealant or a wax. it's not often I turn down coatings but on single stage I've seen paints respond very well to other products and it almost is a bit nostalgic to use non coating products.
 
From what I’ve found, Brian at Apex Detail mentioned (not demonstrated) using an acrylic polish, Xtreme Solutions LVR 403 or 404 and letting that cure 24-48 hours, that you could ceramic coat single stage paint.

I have a client who wants this done on an ‘84 Mercedes Benz. A conversation will be had, as I think some people might assume that a ceramic coating is permanent. After it wears down, what then? Polishing off the coating and back into the single stage paint on an old car...that’s out of my experience range.
 
Here's the actual deal...

If the coating you use requires you to use a panel wipe (solvent) to chemically strip the paint before applying the coating, with OLD single stage paint like solvent-evaporation lacquers and enamels - the act of chemically stripping this type of paint with a solvent can DULL the paint down.

If it's NEW old school type paint or NEW modern URETHANE single stage paint - no problems.

This question comes up from time to time. The first thing I do is what I did? Ask the TYPE of paint you're working on.

Condition is a factor too with old school paints. There's a difference between the ORIGINAL dried out paint on a 1952 Chevy and the single stage paint on a 1952 Chevy that was REPAINTED in 1978 and then maintained.


Clear as cloudy clearcoat?


:D
 
Here's a coating detail did to a MODERN single stage URETHANE paint job 8 years ago.

Detailer’s Paint Coating on Single Stage Paint

1932_Ford_Phaeton_007.jpg





:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Here's the actual deal...

If the coating you use requires you to use a panel wipe (solvent) to chemically strip the paint before applying the coating, with OLD single stage paint like solvent-evaporation lacquers and enamels - the act of chemically stripping this type of paint with a solvent can DULL the paint down.

If it's NEW old school type paint or NEW modern URETHANE single stage paint - no problems.

This question comes up from time to time. The first thing I do is what I did? Ask the TYPE of paint you're working on.

Condition is a factor too with old school paints. There's a difference between the ORIGINAL dried out paint on a 1952 Chevy and the single stage paint on a 1952 Chevy that was REPAINTED in 1978 and then maintained.


Clear as cloudy clearcoat?


:D
Click to expand...

At least I know it CAN be done......not that I'm going to try it anytime soon, though
 
Does the Megs #7 treatment have any benefit to a MODERN single stage paint? I thought it was only for the OLD SS and oil enriching process won't benefit modern urethane paint, SS or not. I have a poorly maintained 2006 Toyota Tundra which I believe is a modern SS urethane and I was planning on going straight to polish. But, I do have a bottle of #7 if it'll benefit the oxidized and neglected paint. Thanks in advance.
 
seanktm said:
Does the Megs #7 treatment have any benefit to a MODERN single stage paint? I thought it was only for the OLD SS and oil enriching process won't benefit modern urethane paint, SS or not. I have a poorly maintained 2006 Toyota Tundra which I believe is a modern SS urethane and I was planning on going straight to polish. But, I do have a bottle of #7 if it'll benefit the oxidized and neglected paint. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
If its pure white, it's single stage paint. Compound and polish would be my guess.
 
seanktm said:
Does the Megs #7 treatment have any benefit to a MODERN single stage paint? I thought it was only for the OLD SS and oil enriching process won't benefit modern urethane paint, SS or not. I have a poorly maintained 2006 Toyota Tundra which I believe is a modern SS urethane and I was planning on going straight to polish. But, I do have a bottle of #7 if it'll benefit the oxidized and neglected paint. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Polish it like normal. Just have plenty of pads ready.
 
psnt1ol said:
The last single stage car I worked on was Red. It turned all my white polishing pads "PINK". LOL
Click to expand...

Ah, I heard about this. Was this permanent staining? Should I put these pads aside for single stage jobs only? I will be using 6 brand new Uro-Tec Yellow Polishing Pads (or Maroon Cutting). Maybe I should've ordered some cheap B&S flat pads for the single stage job? Any tips?
 
The pads are still in use. :xyxthumbs:

After cleaning, they still have a light pink tint but they are still working fine. I normally set up a bucket of pad cleaning solution and throw the used pad in to soak for easier cleaning later. I didnt do it that time and didnt get back to them until the following day. This was mainly the cause of the staining.

When people ask me why my pads are pink these days, I just tell them they are designers. LOL
 
@seanktm

Don’t know if you have seen this video that Mike and Yancy did. There is a brief discussion, towards the end. Makes for a good watch and learning..

It’s been a few years ago now but a friend of mine has a 1st generation WHITE tundra. We did a test spot on a rear “chalky” panel. I’m actually drawing a bit of a blank right now but we used either Megs or Sonax Polish with really good success without using Megs 7
Unfortunately, he let the paint go again and a few years later, it was back to chalky.
Steve

 
seanktm said:
Was this permanent staining?

Should I put these pads aside for single stage jobs only?

I will be using 6 brand new Uro-Tec Yellow Polishing Pads (or Maroon Cutting). Maybe I should've ordered some cheap B&S flat pads for the single stage job?


Any tips?
Click to expand...


Tips?

Wash and re-use forever or until they disintegrate. The staining has zero effect.


From this recent detailing class

Pictures: 2020 September 3-Day Detailing Bootcamp Class



Here's one of 17 cars this class detailed.


HandsOnDetailClass_0046.JPG


HandsOnDetailClass_0047.JPG





Here's the single stage paint on some of the pads the classed used before I throw them into the washing machine.

Single_Stage_Green_003.JPG


Single_Stage_Green_002.JPG








Here I've laid them out to the best of my ability like you see in the BEFORE picture above in post #16

Single_Stage_Green_011.JPG





Been detailing cars for over 30 years and over this time I've worked on a LOT of single stage paint. It's no big deal. Wash the pad, dry them use them again and again and again.




I actually met a detailing personality this year that told people you had to throw them away.


:dunno:
 
seanktm said:
Ah, I heard about this. Was this permanent staining? Should I put these pads aside for single stage jobs only? I will be using 6 brand new Uro-Tec Yellow Polishing Pads (or Maroon Cutting). Maybe I should've ordered some cheap B&S flat pads for the single stage job? Any tips?
Click to expand...

I forgot to post this. This FJ has modern day single stage. Normal polish and coating. As I mentioned have plenty of pads if it is heavily oxidized. Pads will not be stained.

2008 FJ Cruiser TRD Trail Teams Edition Polished and Ceramic Coated
 
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