I'm about done with ceramic coatings, not worth it , need suggestions

Coatings are more susceptible to water spots....especially during the first two weeks of the curing process. That's why gyeon Recommend cure. Just like crack said.

That could a possiblilty why you had spotting issues. I know I had a water spotting issue one time I did not use cure. Every time since then I've used care and never had one issue

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if you read the instruction on the website , gyeon only recommends pure of you are doing an outdoor application and there is a possibility of rain in the next 24 hours. These 2 cars were park inside a garage for 48 hours and none of them saw rain the first 4 days. But again, goes back to the same statement, you need to use something to protect the coating ..

i may as well just use cure by itself. The hydrophobic properties on my car will be the ones of the top layer which in this case would be cure
 
if you read the instruction on the website , gyeon only recommends pure of you are doing an outdoor application and there is a possibility of rain in the next 24 hours. These 2 cars were park inside a garage for 48 hours and none of them saw rain the first 4 days. But again, goes back to the same statement, you need to use something to protect the coating ..

i may as well just use cure by itself. The hydrophobic properties on my car will be the ones of the top layer which in this case would be cure
Correct. Also to note...have you ever kept your coating aplicator from after applying pure?

I have multiple times and it literally takes damn near the full two weeks for it to become rock hard. Something i thought was interesting.

I use cure every time as a piece of mind no matter weather it sits inside for 48 hrs or not. To each there own though.

I would not waste the money on using cure by itself, it would be to extpensive. I would just use 3d bead it up.

And remember you do not need to always top a coating. Ppl do it because they want to.

Again, to each their own.

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Sorry but Si02 sprays do nothing better than a quality coating.

They don't bead nor sheet as good.

Longevity is a whole lot less.

Protection is mediocre at best.

They do not give the same look and appearance.

The self cleaning is not close to the same level.

I honestly don't know how people struggle with coatings these days....

Disagree with all the statements except for longevity and maybe protection

Protection against real environment is almost the same. They scratch as easy . They still water spot. Maybe against chemicals but that is just a maybe since my bmw had opticoating and it still etched on the trunk after something dropped there. We still dont know what it was

In term of looks , sorry but thats a myth. Look at the pictures . My brothers car looks exactly the same , cant tell the difference that one panel is not coated. Even the optó coating on my bmw was the same. I had to repolished one day and only applied reload after. Couldnt tell the difference

Hydrophobic and self cleaning is another myth. After a rain the whole car looks exactly the same. I blow dey my audi and the water moves out exactly the same. On top of that a lot of people use toppers so wouldnt the clearcoat adhere rhe characteristics of the top layer???

Anyways that’s just my experience

In the case of opticoating on my white bmw. It was actually done by a pro .
 
Disagree with all the statements except for longevity and maybe protection

Protection against real environment is almost the same. They scratch as easy . They still water spot. Maybe against chemicals but that is just a maybe since my bmw had opticoating and it still etched on the trunk after something dropped there. We still dont know what it was

In term of looks , sorry but thats a myth. Look at the pictures . My brothers car looks exactly the same , cant tell the difference that one panel is not coated. Even the optó coating on my bmw was the same. I had to repolished one day and only applied reload after. Couldnt tell the difference

Hydrophobic and self cleaning is another myth. After a rain the whole car looks exactly the same. I blow dey my audi and the water moves out exactly the same. On top of that a lot of people use toppers so wouldnt the clearcoat adhere rhe characteristics of the top layer???

Anyways that’s just my experience

In the case of opticoating on my white bmw. It was actually done by a pro .

Unfortunatly sounds like you have a bad taste in your mouth from your experience. That is unfortunate.

They do indeed in my experience add to the look. i applied can coat evo over top of my no name ceramic coating 8 months after initial coating install and my god it actually looked like i dipped my buick in a tank of glass. Pure evo also has a darkening effect and gives off that candy gloss look.

Same goes for self cleaning, ease of washing. Everything atleast to me is better.

And yes the coating will be masked by a topper until said topper wears off. But you are esseintally possible extending your coating since the topper will take the brunt of the abuse. Im not a frequent topper person.

Then again maybe im a bit bias as i love what benifits a coating gives me. I can hand wash, rinse then blow dry it and walk away without doing anything else if i dont want to.

Coatings are not the end all be all and are not for everyone.

I may be wrong but it sounds as though your crap experience has blinded you a bit from being open minded that there just might be a issue with mother nature, technique or product., and that coatings do actually do what they claim.

Best of luck in your pursuit in finding a lsp that best suits your needs



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Coatings are most susceptible during the first week of curing. Cure should have been used as a safety measure. Or at most blowing off the water so it doe snot sit on the freshly coated surface. Sucks but this is what happens.
 
Coatings are most susceptible during the first week of curing. Cure should have been used as a safety measure. Or at most blowing off the water so it doe snot sit on the freshly coated surface. Sucks but this is what happens.

there is not way to blow the water off the coating if I take the car to work, unless I take my air blower with me and leave work right after its rains . If it takes 2 weeks to cure , it would be very hard to do this unless I was working from home in which case I would just leave the car inside the garage
 
Unfortunatly sounds like you have a bad taste in your mouth from your experience. That is unfortunate.

They do indeed in my experience add to the look. i applied can coat evo over top of my no name ceramic coating 8 months after initial coating install and my god it actually looked like i dipped my buick in a tank of glass. Pure evo also has a darkening effect and gives off that candy gloss look.

Same goes for self cleaning, ease of washing. Everything atleast to me is better.

And yes the coating will be masked by a topper until said topper wears off. But you are esseintally possible extending your coating since the topper will take the brunt of the abuse. Im not a frequent topper person.

Then again maybe im a bit bias as i love what benifits a coating gives me. I can hand wash, rinse then blow dry it and walk away without doing anything else if i dont want to.

Coatings are not the end all be all and are not for everyone.

I may be wrong but it sounds as though your crap experience has blinded you a bit from being open minded that there just might be a issue with mother nature, technique or product., and that coatings do actually do what they claim.

Best of luck in your pursuit in finding a lsp that best suits your needs



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very likely. I think I m going to stick to sealants and maybe give a lite coating a chance in the future. I did not use cure but again the instruction should also make it mandatory to use cure after an application. I ve read the instructions and it only says to use it if outdoor application is done .

In any case, I m done with gyeon products , can coat evo was also a fail for me lol

I m sticking with car pro products from now on , their lite ceramic coating wasnt bad, mind you it was applied on a white car but I do not recall seeing water spots . But it was nice that the bottle had a lot of product

Funny enough car pro actually states on their user manual that water should be remove from the car in the first 48 hours for car pro lite and they also advised to add reload after 1 hour of application
 
but at least the car looks good lol.

Im wondering if gliss would bond to gyeon pure? . I dont feel like removing the whole coating and I still have half a bottle of gliss laying around in my garage. Can anyone chime in?
 
rick, are you talking about water spots after it rains?
 
Still waiting to hear what the water spotting source is.

I have NEVER got difficult water spotting from rain which couldn't be cleaned off with another wash.
 
Still waiting to hear what the water spotting source is.

I have NEVER got difficult water spotting from rain which couldn't be cleaned off with another wash.

Exactly.
 
rick, are you talking about water spots after it rains?


yes it is rain and sun . No water sprinkler anywhere near the cars…

funny enough all the other cars in the house do not have this issue after a car wash. They are all exposed to the same environment the only difference is that the 2 audis are ceramic coated and the remaining of the cars are not . They only have some type of selant applied to them, one of them does not even have any protection on it

the other difference is that the 2 audis are darker colour cars.. although my dads civic is a darker blue and it has reload applied to it once every 2 months , i dont see any water spotting

having said that i never noticed this issue before the ceramic coating. I was using the last coat black ice and reload , the last coat 2.0, beadmaker

Its only on the hood of both cars . I do not see it anywhere else on the car , maybe some on the roof and i went over the whole car when its sunny, shaded, inside the garage with good lighting. All the water spots are on the hood.

on my black audi i was able to get most of them with car pro spotless but i ended up removing the remaining ones with car pro essence. On my brothers grey audi which was more exposed to the sun and rain in the 2 weeks i had to use car pro clear cut with a microfiber pad to remove the spots, car pro spotless didnt do anything


i have applied car pro essence plus and car pro reload on the black audi after removing gyeon pure ( just the hood) and I have not notice any water spots. If there was some i was able to remove them after a car wash. The dark grey audi has car pro gliss now so it remains to be seen how that performs since application was done today.

needless to say gyeon pure evo is the common denominator here. The car looks great , no complaint on application or looks but performance for rain water spots ib my aread is just horrible for me.
 
View attachment 75439

this one is with water spots, hard to captured on picture but spots like this one were literally all over the hood, probably hundreds of them , this is a picture after I tried car pro spotless and light hand polish . I was trying to avoid removing the coating. I did a pass my da , white pad and car pro essence and nothing. I also did another pass with a red pad and HD 1 and it was better but you could still see it. I had to do one with clear cut and a microfiber pad to remove the spots

View attachment 75440

View attachment 75441

the last 2 are after the microfiber correction and gliss applied to it

Very similar experience with my black audi , only difference is that i was able to remove the spots with a white pad and car pro essence . But the black audi is garage kept and it gets wash twice a week
 
That is really strange. Any water spots I get after it rains and the sun comes out easily wash off. Acid rain?
 
View attachment 75442

View attachment 75443

these were pictures right after the car was ceramic coated, i went over under different lighting and there was not water spots at all. I did not even use a compound on the hood , just a all in one HD one, and car pro essence. The car again was kept in the garage for 2 days and it did not see rain until day 5 . It was washed on day 12 , do not recall seeing any water spots , but maybe there was already some. This was 2 weeks ago from the last wash , I washed the car again 2 weeks after and surprised surprised, the water spots were all over the car , you could see it just from standing in front of the car. Very similar to what I experienced on my black audi after the third wash or so

keep in mind that my black audi now does not have gyeon pure evo on the hood. It has car pro essence plus and carpro reload. I have not seen any more water spots on the hood, its on its firth or sixth washed and it has seen some rain at work. Water behavior on the hood is the same as the remaining of the car and looks wise I would even say the hood looks a bit better to me than the remaining of the car, in any case it just looks the same
 
there is not way to blow the water off the coating if I take the car to work, unless I take my air blower with me and leave work right after its rains . If it takes 2 weeks to cure , it would be very hard to do this unless I was working from home in which case I would just leave the car inside the garage

An ego with a stubby will fit in your trunk just fine

Anyway when in doubt use cure during the curing time frame.

Why do you think CarPro recommends using Reload other than with SiC? Because the coating is most susceptible during this time.

FYI CarPro coatings do spot as well. This includes SiC.

You want no water spots then look into a sheeting coating like Gtechniq CSL or one of the Dr. Beasley’s coatings. But I suspect you would come back stating it is not that attractive. Also any hydrophobic topper will nullify the sheeting aspect. Sheeting has its pros and cons.
 
Here is the deal , all the money spend on a product that is so useless , I may as well just put a cheap ceramic spray from Walmart at this point. Thank God I have the tools to correct the water spots but imagine if I would ve paid someone to apply a ceramic coating on my car.
Also you go through the hassles of slowly applying the damn coating on the car, throwing out towels , coming back to fix high spots.

There are are number of good sealants out there but just as an FYI, you don't need to throw out wipe-off towels, only applicators. Coatings don't ruin wipe off towels, just launder them as normal.

I m having a hard time understanding the benefit of a full ceramic coating, I mean , they are horrible against water spotting ( I had the same issue with opti coating) , you need a topper on top of a coating to prevent water spotting. I mean , may as well just put a " topper" by itself and forget about the coating. The process would be much easier , cheaper , same water beadings . It would be less durable sure, but I would rather reapply a topper or ceramic spray once a month than going through the whole ceramic application experience.

Ceramics offer plenty of benefits. I won't re-list what most all of them already market but I think in your situation, while I don't have an answer as to why you're seeing water spots, the facts still remain that ceramics offer plenty of up-side and little down side. They aren't for everyone that's for sure.

In all honesty I m looking at my audi with essence plus on the hood and the ceramic coating on the remaining of the car. I can not tell the difference , the water behavior is the same , the hood actually looks a bit more shiny which may just be the lighting. I had two neighbors drop by while I was looking at the car, they could not tell that the hood did not have a ceramic coating .

Not surprising. 99% of gloss is from the polish phase not the LSP, ceramic included. I keep a HUGE portfolio of work on my website and even in person, let alone pics and videos, one would not know or "see" the difference in products I use regularly.

As per recommendations, can any here recommend a good product that would help with water spotting? . I m hopping gliss is the answer but any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated

I've had great luck with Gliss v2 and even SiC or GYEON MOHS EVO as a coating. Again, can't say I can fully understand what's happening in your situation. I've been using coatings for years and haven't had issues with water spots except for very hard municiple water like sprinkler at a hotel, etc. since very early on. The newer products I've used area all very good and resistant.

The only real suggestion I would have would be to use a topper like 3D Bead it Up or one of the other many different types of coating compatible products. I've owned no less than 8 black cars and haven't had any issues.
 
All coatings can get spotting, from light to heavy. Paint itself, even a substance as hard as glass will get hard water spots. As noted some paint sealants have a more sheeting effect than beading and that would be the best option if water spotting is an issue. Cure time is essential for ceramics and I stress this to all my clients and we coat a ton of cars.

Even PPF, ones infused with ceramic properties, get hard water spots BUT the good thing to note is that the spotting is mainly attached itself to the coating or top layer rather than etched into the paint layer itself. Remember, with all waxes, coatings, etc...they are just an sacrificial barrier between the elements and your paint.

Anthony
 
I've never had rain create spots a wash could not remove.
 
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