How many polishing pads per car?
- Thread starter Bdubbs
- Start date
Bdubbs
Member
- Apr 14, 2020
- 365
- 6
- Thread starter
- #22
If you rarely do a 2 or 3 step polish how do you go about it?
I planned on doing a 3 step.
1. Wolfgang Uber compound.
2. Wolfgang Finishing glaze.
3. Wolfgang paint sealant wax.
Definitely going to be a lot of work. The paint does have a lot of fine scratches.
Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
PaulMys
Active member
- Jan 14, 2014
- 10,772
- 3
Only a test spot will tell you what you actually need.
Start with the least aggressive pad (white) with the WG compound and see what that does before moving to the orange.
After you dial that in, then the finishing glaze should just be "fine-tuning".
Bdubbs
Member
- Apr 14, 2020
- 365
- 6
- Thread starter
- #25
I'll just update my progress on this thread I started.
Just need to tape off a little more at the rear bumper. Starting the polishing tonight.
Can I use a light polish on the black deck lid between the tail lights? Has swirl and scratches. I plan on going really light and slow on the rear spoiler as well.
Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
Just need to tape off a little more at the rear bumper. Starting the polishing tonight.
Can I use a light polish on the black deck lid between the tail lights? Has swirl and scratches. I plan on going really light and slow on the rear spoiler as well.
Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
Coatingsarecrack
Well-known member
- Dec 9, 2018
- 7,884
- 573
No that many each for each step you are doing.
6-10 for cutting and 6-10 for polishing. Have yet to need 3 steps
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Coatingsarecrack
Well-known member
- Dec 9, 2018
- 7,884
- 573
I'll just update my progress on this thread I started.
Just need to tape off a little more at the rear bumper. Starting the polishing tonight.
Can I use a light polish on the black deck lid between the tail lights? Has swirl and scratches. I plan on going really light and slow on the rear spoiler as well.
Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
I used 3” Boss yellow pads on that. They are a light cutting AIO style pad and got good results. I used Griots Correcting cream. It wasn’t too light but was medium aggressiveness.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bdubbs
Member
- Apr 14, 2020
- 365
- 6
- Thread starter
- #28
So what 2 steps are you doing? I figured cutting, polishing, and wax sealant.
I have some griots correcting cream. I wasn't really impressed with it. It was leaving dust residue everywhere compared to the Wolfgang stuff I use. I have the Uber compound and total swirl remover.
I may use a lake country white 3" pad with finishing glaze on that deck lid area and see how it goes.
Unfortunately, I only have 2 white 5.5" pads and maybe a couple more coming this Friday. So I'll try to get the cutting with orange pads completed tonight.
Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
PaulMys
Active member
- Jan 14, 2014
- 10,772
- 3
Bdubbs
Member
- Apr 14, 2020
- 365
- 6
- Thread starter
- #30
I've used them every time I do a paint correction. But I've always used orange, white and black pads. I have 1 yellow and 1 blue one. Haven't used either.These will be your go-to pads. Believe me.
I honestly thought I had more white pads, I must have thrown some away.
Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
Coatingsarecrack
Well-known member
- Dec 9, 2018
- 7,884
- 573
I did cutting/defect removal with Correcting cream. Funny I didn’t get much dust when I used but our climates could have been a factor. I finished with CarPro Essence as I was doing a coating.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bdubbs
Member
- Apr 14, 2020
- 365
- 6
- Thread starter
- #32
Awesome, I may need to try that Essence at some point. I'd like to cut down to 2 steps. I have the time, but this is a lot of work. And I'm sure others achieve better results than me, even doing one less step.
I have two other cars that need some paint work, so cutting down on time with good results would be great.
Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
DFB
Well-known member
- Aug 12, 2019
- 4,890
- 2,959
The gloss black decklid panel is super soft, it will correct with a very mild combination, but will mar up easily so be gentle with the wipe off.
I use Sonax Perfect Finish or Carpro Reflect on a yellow Rupes pad for this area.
Paul A.
New member
- Dec 21, 2007
- 5,276
- 1
Let me offer my opinion on this topic.
Correction implies removing paint. Various amounts of paint depending on the level and process of removal. Where does that paint go? Into the pad along with used product and any other debris that may not have been fully removed. After a while the pad turns on the "No Vacancy" sign and the pad gets full and ineffective at correcting.
You can use 1-2 pads for the entire correction process and clean it out after every section or every other section. Those cleanings can't remove everything removed or picked up by the pad. There will be an accumulation of paint and product etc each time. Those pads are not nearly as effective at the end of the job as they were when they started even with frequent cleanings.
Conversely and ideally you could grab a fresh, clean pad for every single section however I don't really want to clean anywhere from say 25-50 pads when I'm done.
What's a happy and efficient "medium"?
Generally I like to work a pad for 2, MAYBE 3 sections and clean it after each section. What's cleaning? Compressed air blows or brush while spinning followed by an absorbent towel press dry. After 2, MAYBE 3 sections I clean it again and throw it in a soapy bucket. That varies by aggression i.e. compounding pads get cleaned and swapped out more frequently than finishing. Hopefully you are not removing as much paint (and very little "other crap") when refining after compounding. In that case i can stretch a white pad out to 4-5 sections but still cleaning after every section.
With that said, if I'm doing a 1 step "brighten" job with say 3D One i use my compounding pad replacement schedule i.e. 2 sections and change out.
In summary...clean pads are more effective than dirty, crap accumulated pads.
Again, just my opinion and experience. And don't ask me how DAT, SMAT or AAT abrasives factor in for me!
Correction implies removing paint. Various amounts of paint depending on the level and process of removal. Where does that paint go? Into the pad along with used product and any other debris that may not have been fully removed. After a while the pad turns on the "No Vacancy" sign and the pad gets full and ineffective at correcting.
You can use 1-2 pads for the entire correction process and clean it out after every section or every other section. Those cleanings can't remove everything removed or picked up by the pad. There will be an accumulation of paint and product etc each time. Those pads are not nearly as effective at the end of the job as they were when they started even with frequent cleanings.
Conversely and ideally you could grab a fresh, clean pad for every single section however I don't really want to clean anywhere from say 25-50 pads when I'm done.
What's a happy and efficient "medium"?
Generally I like to work a pad for 2, MAYBE 3 sections and clean it after each section. What's cleaning? Compressed air blows or brush while spinning followed by an absorbent towel press dry. After 2, MAYBE 3 sections I clean it again and throw it in a soapy bucket. That varies by aggression i.e. compounding pads get cleaned and swapped out more frequently than finishing. Hopefully you are not removing as much paint (and very little "other crap") when refining after compounding. In that case i can stretch a white pad out to 4-5 sections but still cleaning after every section.
With that said, if I'm doing a 1 step "brighten" job with say 3D One i use my compounding pad replacement schedule i.e. 2 sections and change out.
In summary...clean pads are more effective than dirty, crap accumulated pads.
Again, just my opinion and experience. And don't ask me how DAT, SMAT or AAT abrasives factor in for me!
PaulMys
Active member
- Jan 14, 2014
- 10,772
- 3
Paul....... How do DAT, SMAT, or AAT abrasives factor in for you??
:laughing::laughing::cheers:
If your not in a hurry you can simply hand wash the first pad with some warm water and APC and just spin dry and/or throw it in the dryer for 30 minutes while you use the next pad.
I hand wash a lightly soiled pad in less than 5 minutes.
Pads are tough these days. If i was a pro i would have the lake country pad washer for sure. You don't need a gazillion pads IME - which isn't really high lol
You just have to keep them clean. I bet 3 yellow rupes pads can polish at least 5 cars before they start to breakdown with just normal polishing.
