So, reading through old threads to learn more....
I see a lot about decon washes, but not what one is or what it entails. Google is not my strong suit, and search gave me a lot of noise instead of results.
So, what is one. And how/when do we do it? I have a couple cars done with cquartz uk 3.0 and am fixing to do my two collector cars when I get the time free. So this is apparently something I need to learn about.
Quite often, the term "decon wash" will refer to a high or low pH soap used to break down contamination and older sealants and waxes. But I tend to use "decon" to describe a more involved process approaching the task from multiple angles, using both mechanical (clay) and chemical steps. All of this is of course all dependant on how contaminated the vehicle is.
For a full rundown, check out the link below -
Decontamination, a buzz word that has probably become a little overused in recent times. In very basic terms, the word is used to describe the removal of foreign material from the paint, glass, and wheels that is not removed during a normal maintenance wash. These contaminants build up over...
www.mustang6g.com
The above link is a very detailed, so this is a quicker rundown of my decon process -
1. Apply Iron remover to the whole vehicle, from dry. Allow to soak but not dry on the paint.
2. With the iron remover still on the surface, foam a high pH soap over the top and allow to soak but not dry. This helps extend the iron removers working time, but then targets dirt and oily contamination. Think Carpro Lift, NV Snow+, Optimum Touchless ect.
3. Rinse thoroughly.
4. Foam with a low pH soap such as KCx RS or Carpro Descale. This targets mineral deposits. Contact wash with the foam still on the car.
5. Rinse thoroughly.
6. Inspect the paint, if it feels rough or "crunchy", this is when to use a clay product. I do this now before drying the vehicle as you are only going to get the car wet again with clay lubricant, why dry twice? I also prefer the synthetic clay towel/sponge/mitt as they are more efficient and easier to use. However, if the paint is very bad, a traditional clay bar will be more effective. Use soapy water, rinse-less wash or detail spray for lubricant.
7. Rinse again, this removes the clay lube residue.
8. Dry the vehicle. After using a blower to remove as much water as possible, I like to team my drying towel with a prep spray like Carpro Eraser as the "drying aid" at this step. The concept here being the Eraser provides lubrication as you dry, but without leaving something behind. I've also found it helps with evaporation of moisture. This is also good practice as it will remove any lingering chemical residue and helps you inspect the paint properly before polishing.
Depending on how big the car is and how badly contaminated it is, this process would take 60 - 90-minutes.
lol.