Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the 3000 wet/dry paper you can get from onlineindustrial supply and the 3000 trizact? Is it that much of a difference? The price is so much higher and the 3000 I have been using seems to work fine.

Also, I have seen some sites recently like Home | Headlight Restoration | Doctor Headlight claiming they have some "emulsion" process that goes through the light to take out even issues inside the light without removing it. Also, Headlight Restoration Professional Preferred Method, Rated BEST! claims to have a "3rd generation chemical" which dissolves all old coating and doesn't need any sanding.

Has anyone had any contact or info about these or what they are using for their products?

Thanks in advance,

Norman
 
Here is a written description of the process, reported by a Doctor Headlight customer on Rennlist (a forum of Porsche owners):

He first asked forum members about it:

Has anybody here ever used Doctor Headlight for headlight restoration?...They send a tech out who will perform the job at your house. It takes about an hour. I was quoted $90 for BOTH headlights.

According to the tech, they use a 5 stage sanding process to remove imperfections, and they follow it with an epoxy coating to protect the newly polished lens. It's guaranteed for life. I think I may try this... my headlights are getting a little hazy and showing some yellowing...
Click to expand...

Then he tried it and reported back:

The headlight refinishing process is complete. It was 30 degrees F and snowing today, so I had the work done in my garage. The tech started by wet sanding the headlights with an emulsifier. He hand sanded progressively, going from 320 to 600 to 1,000 to 1,500 to 2,500 grit. He then treated the lenses with a conditioner, and finally 3 coats of epoxy applied from a small air gun. Because of the cold weather, he then used a heat gun (a.k.a. fancy hair drier) to help dry the epoxy.

I'm very pleased with the results. The lenses look much clearer, and most of the imperfections have been removed. Are they as good as brand new headlights? No. However, they are a dramatic improvement and it was money well spent. Here are a few before and after photos...
Click to expand...

...which you can't see unless you are a forum member and signed in.

The entire thread can be read by nonmembers at:

Doctor Headlight - Rennlist Discussion Forums

So, it sounds like the same familiar abrasive process to remove the oxidation and deteriorated factory coating (the "emulsifier" is still not described), with a clear epoxy sprayed onto the headlight to protect the restored lens from UV.

Other customer reports say the cost is closer to $200 than to $90 but since the vendors are all independent businesses, they can charge what they want.
 
I have been using this 50/50 method and other than a couple times that I have somehow missed a small spot and have to clean it up and start over, it works great. I have been using rubbing alcohol to clean up and it seems to work fine, but I have seen people suggesting using the mineral spirits for that as well.

Has anyone used both and can shed some light on why I should or shouldn't use either one?

I would love to start doing the 2 part clear such as a 2k spray but when you are mobile and have limited tools, it's just not possible to pull headlights to do that in a clean and controlled environment. I have been thinking of adding it as a optional "premium" service but I am not sure I want to start disassembling car parts. So for now.... 50/50 is working and I don't see a need to change it.
 
light-bright said:
I have been using this 50/50 method and other than a couple times that I have somehow missed a small spot and have to clean it up and start over, it works great. I have been using rubbing alcohol to clean up and it seems to work fine, but I have seen people suggesting using the mineral spirits for that as well.

Has anyone used both and can shed some light on why I should or shouldn't use either one?

I would love to start doing the 2 part clear such as a 2k spray but when you are mobile and have limited tools, it's just not possible to pull headlights to do that in a clean and controlled environment. I have been thinking of adding it as a optional "premium" service but I am not sure I want to start disassembling car parts. So for now.... 50/50 is working and I don't see a need to change it.
Click to expand...


I use the mineral spirits for the 50/50 mix with the spar....and....to wipe the lens clean from sanding, prior to applying the spar mixture...and it works great. No reason to buy rubbing alcohol too.

The problems that I hear from others on here about using an air brush to spray is.....1. The extra time it takes to mask all surrounding surfaces to avoid overspray and....2. You have to be careful that the overspray doesn't get on any other cars close by...as many people perform these job for car lots.....and 3. Is the additional money used for the materials used to mask everything off.

The wipe-on 50/50 (I use 60/40) method is easy and neat with little costs or clean-up.
 
Part-timer said:
I use the mineral spirits for the 50/50 mix with the spar....and....to wipe the lens clean from sanding, prior to applying the spar mixture...and it works great. No reason to buy rubbing alcohol too.
Click to expand...

For this part I also use mineral spirits.

My question was pertaining to if you mess up applying the 50/50 or 60/40. What do you use to clean that?

I gather from what you said, you don't have alcohol but how how much work is it to use the mineral spirits? I can completely clean a lens of the still wet 50/50 in about 30seconds with the alcohol.

Thanks for the input.
 
light-bright said:
For this part I also use mineral spirits.

My question was pertaining to if you mess up applying the 50/50 or 60/40. What do you use to clean that?

I gather from what you said, you don't have alcohol but how how much work is it to use the mineral spirits? I can completely clean a lens of the still wet 50/50 in about 30seconds with the alcohol.

Thanks for the input.
Click to expand...


I use the mineral spirits to clean off if I mess up putting on the spar also. It comes right off when its still wet and as long as it hasn't dried for a half hour or so, your ok.
 
Ok so when I first attempted this method I had purchased the wrong kind of minerals spirits.It was milky white,I knew it was wrong off the bat but I proceeded to use it anyhow.I was curious if it would go on clear,it did not,it smeared badly and had an opaque finish to it.No problem though as it easily came off with the same minerals spirits.I returned the mineral spirits and got the correct one in the clear bottle not a white bottle like other one.The one in the clear bottle is clear and tad more expensive.Thought I'd post it as a heads up to others!

Before_n_after_110.jpg
Before_n_after_13.jpg
:doh:
Before_n_after_19.jpg
 
The mineral spirits that I use are absolutely clear and has the same consistency as water.

And when mixed and ready to use it is still clear. And I wait for any bubbles to go away before I wipe it on with Scott Shop Towels.
 
oldmodman said:
The mineral spirits that I use are absolutely clear and has the same consistency as water.

And when mixed and ready to use it is still clear. And I wait for any bubbles to go away before I wipe it on with Scott Shop Towels.
Click to expand...

Shouldn't Spar & MS mix be like an amber color? MS is clear/transparent, like water, and feels oily when you touch it. Spar is about amber or yellow. When I mix the 2, i get an amber color.

I've been using this method for the past 3 months and I've had no troubles; results are impressive!

Is everybody getting an ambered color mix? or is it a clear one?
 
Yes. Amber colored.

By clear I was referring to the fact that what he was ending up with was opaque with no transparency.

My mineral spirits are clear, the Helmsman is amber(ish).
 
Ok so I got to redo the set with the correct OMS.One side started with 500 the 800 then 3000.The other side just 800 and 3000.These headlight were'nt in really bad shape just foggy,and some crazing that can't be fixed.3m's kit 3" disk were used with a power drill,500 and 800 dry then 3000 wet.lenses were prewiped with the OMS,then the Spar urethane at approx 60/40. First one came out flawless,the second gave me problems ,bubbling,streaking so that one was finally done a third time.The first cured crystal clear the other not so much,which was the 800,3000 only one.This was done on a practice car that sits on my driveway all the time,so I get to redo whenever I want.Overall I'm very pleased with the results.I will continue to practice and perfect my technique.
Here are the pics to prove.

Before
Before_n_after_17.jpg


After the 3000
Before_n_after_18.jpg


Sealer on

Before_n_after_24.jpg
Before_n_after_27.jpg
Before_n_after_25.jpg



Thank you all that have contributed to this thread!
:xyxthumbs:
 
If I can remember too, I will post a picture of mine.

Mine doesn't look all they great anymore.
 
Beerwulf76 So on that set of HL you sanded with 3000 and applied the 50/50(or60/40) over that? I have always been using rubbing compound to get a little clarity first. It looks real clear on your lights. I never worry about getting it too clear, but I thought this method needed some polishing out first.

Those lights look great.
 
light-bright said:
Beerwulf76 So on that set of HL you sanded with 3000 and applied the 50/50(or60/40) over that? I have always been using rubbing compound to get a little clarity first. It looks real clear on your lights. I never worry about getting it too clear, but I thought this method needed some polishing out first.

Those lights look great.
Click to expand...

The crystal clear one(passenger side) was done with 500,800,then 3000 wet,then 60/40 Spar/MOS.The other(driver side) was done with 800,3000 wet and did not come out as clear.
 
timaishu said:
Few months. I think 4-5? I made a post in here when I last did them I think.
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Oh, and which process did you followed? Was it buffed out or not? I am currently looking forward into knowing wich one is more durable, sand/buff/spar or sand/spar. At least in apearance.

For me it seems that when using sand/spar method, apearance is affected in about 6 months. And when using sand/buff/spar method, apearance stands longer.
 
GalKonz said:
Oh, and which process did you followed? Was it buffed out or not? I am currently looking forward into knowing wich one is more durable, sand/buff/spar or sand/spar. At least in apearance.

For me it seems that when using sand/spar method, apearance is affected in about 6 months. And when using sand/buff/spar method, apearance stands longer.
Click to expand...

I cant remember tbh. I think I went from sanding to spar though.

I plan to opti-coat my car soon. So I may try opti-coating them to see if they last longer. My light is pretty jacked though. Lots of buffer marks I cannot seem to get rid of.
 
abarmard said:
What brand UV sealer did you buy and where did you buy it?
Thank you,
A.
Click to expand...

Here we are discussing a headlight sealing method using a homemade mixture. I think you didn't read the very first page. Go ahead to first page, this method gives amazing results!

timaishu said:
I cant remember tbh. I think I went from sanding to spar though.

I plan to opti-coat my car soon. So I may try opti-coating them to see if they last longer. My light is pretty jacked though. Lots of buffer marks I cannot seem to get rid of.
Click to expand...

You may be interested in the thread that HotRod did about Opticoat vs Spar Urethane. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...sealant-spar-urethane-vs-opti-coat-2-0-a.html

In case you haven't looked at it yet.
 
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