Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

[/QUOTE]
Yes. That is what we are talking about. I have always done 50/50. Until I have an issue or feel the need to change things, I will stick with it. [/QUOTE] thanks. also what compound do you use? do some people apply the 50/50 right after sanding with the 3000 and skip the compound?
 
I too was just thinking about the 50/50 & 60/40 mix, I was thinking the OMS does evaporate as the mix dries on the headlight and is therefore there for the application process...has anyone ever tried a 70/30 or 80/20? I'm going to try 70/30 - 75/25 - 80/20 on a few lights I got at the scrapyard as a test, when I get a chance over the next few weeks. I'll post when I get a chance.
 
RENU said:
I too was just thinking about the 50/50 & 60/40 mix, I was thinking the OMS does evaporate as the mix dries on the headlight and is therefore there for the application process...has anyone ever tried a 70/30 or 80/20? I'm going to try 70/30 - 75/25 - 80/20 on a few lights I got at the scrapyard as a test, when I get a chance over the next few weeks. I'll post when I get a chance.
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I try to go 60/40.....but if its windy out, the 60/40 dries too quickly and doesn't have a chance to self-level, so I have to add mineral spirits to thin the mixture out a bit to work. I've tried 70/30 and it didn't work for me....even the 60/40 is kind of pushing it.

Also....many on here DON"T recommend compound because they say the spar is like paint and needs a rough surface to "BITE INTO". I've tried many ways and just using 3000 grit 3" disc ends my process before wiping down with mineral spirits and applying spar 60/40 mix.
 
Thanks Part-timer...

I do have to agree with; no compound, wiping down with mineral spirits, and then applying the Spar/OMS mixture on a clean & dry headlight...remember after wiping the lens clean with OMS...give the OMS a chance to evaporate properly...say 5 minutes, then apply the 50/50 or 60/40 mix.
 
new here and saw this thread in a google search, read the first couple pages and the last couple pages but really didnt want to read the whole thread, but I have a quick question

Im interested in using this for my restored headlights, oem bmw e39 facelift headlights.

before reading this thread,
I used 3m headlight restoration and did the whole thing all the way to buffing with the foam pad and rubbing compound and I really wanted to figure out a way to protect the lens in the meantime so I put on 2 coats of tech 2.0 liquid wax on it.

If I want to follow the spar method, can I just remove the wax with IPA and then apply the spar directly to the fully polished lens? (has very faint scratches on it, thats all)
OR should I hit the lens with the trizact disc and scuff it a bit and then apply spar?


and after spar, do I need to do anything further buffing?
 
bigjoe87865 said:
new here and saw this thread in a google search, read the first couple pages and the last couple pages but really didnt want to read the whole thread, but I have a quick question

Im interested in using this for my restored headlights, oem bmw e39 facelift headlights.

before reading this thread,
I used 3m headlight restoration and did the whole thing all the way to buffing with the foam pad and rubbing compound and I really wanted to figure out a way to protect the lens in the meantime so I put on 2 coats of tech 2.0 liquid wax on it.

If I want to follow the spar method, can I just remove the wax with IPA and then apply the spar directly to the fully polished lens? (has very faint scratches on it, thats all)
OR should I hit the lens with the trizact disc and scuff it a bit and then apply spar?


and after spar, do I need to do anything further buffing?
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Let me first say, you should do what I did and take a few moments each night to read a little more, and a little more, until you do read the whole thread. There is a lot of great info on the pages in between.

Here is what I have gathered in regards to your question. If you use an IPA to remove the wax entirely. Wet sand with the trizact, and clean with OMS, there is no reason you can't use the spar. It's exactly what I had done with my own car. No issues at all. Although, I also compounded before the spar. I will be testing my results without compound.
 
light-bright said:
Let me first say, you should do what I did and take a few moments each night to read a little more, and a little more, until you do read the whole thread. There is a lot of great info on the pages in between.

Here is what I have gathered in regards to your question. If you use an IPA to remove the wax entirely. Wet sand with the trizact, and clean with OMS, there is no reason you can't use the spar. It's exactly what I had done with my own car. No issues at all. Although, I also compounded before the spar. I will be testing my results without compound.
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yeah, I figured as much, going to read the rest of this thread now.

Im set on IPA to remove wax, trizact to scuff it it up for bite, OMS to clean before 50/50 spar.

Then just apply spar slowly in one swipe or without any swipes over lapping right?

What should be done to maintain the spar coating?... allowed to apply any wax on top of it during car wash intervals?
 
I *DO* let swipes of the 50/50 spar overlap, but maintain a WET edge as I do so.

Maintenance for me has been water and detergent wash only. Some car polishes and waxes contain solvents that can soften the polyurethane.
 
I tried this method on my wife's 2003 Jetta.

She thought I had purchased new headlights.
I used a 2" foam brush to put it on.
They look fabulous.
 
bigjoe87865 said:
yeah, I figured as much, going to read the rest of this thread now.

Im set on IPA to remove wax, trizact to scuff it it up for bite, OMS to clean before 50/50 spar.

Then just apply spar slowly in one swipe or without any swipes over lapping right?

What should be done to maintain the spar coating?... allowed to apply any wax on top of it during car wash intervals?
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As GP49 says..........What I've found out with my own lights is that....1. Some waxes do tend to remove and/or degrade the spar....2. Some waxes seem to actually start the yellowing process that you are trying to fix, just by applying them. I've heard a few say that they use Mequiars Plastix polish on occasion...but again, I'm with GP49....no waxes.
 
Part-timer said:
As GP49 says..........What I've found out with my own lights is that....1. Some waxes do tend to remove and/or degrade the spar....2. Some waxes seem to actually start the yellowing process that you are trying to fix, just by applying them. I've heard a few say that they use Mequiars Plastix polish on occasion...but again, I'm with GP49....no waxes.
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I learn something new every day. I never knew that wax could have a negative effect on the spar.
 
So , I have the materials, read about 15 more pages and now im still trying to decide whether I should sand/spar or sand/polish-buff/spar

Iv read both sides of the argument

sand/spar = spar has some bite to hold on , will last longer because of it., looks a little duller ... and when wearing off, it looks duller faster because the sanding becomes visible

sand/buff/spar = looks clearer? maybe or maybe not lasts as long as spar/sand, when wearing off the finish will still be buffed underneath. any one with long term results on this one?

any benefits to doing 2 coats?... read that it is possible and wont leave streaks if you wait till the 1st coat is fully dried.

Thank you
 
bigjoe87865 said:
So , I have the materials, read about 15 more pages and now im still trying to decide whether I should sand/spar or sand/polish-buff/spar

Iv read both sides of the argument
Thank you
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The first headlight resto job i did was on my own car. And i decided to to 1 headlight sand/spar and the other one sand/buff/spar. What about doing both methods like me? It has been 4 months and a 1/2 since i restored 'em and, they both looking good. They seem equally in appearance.
 
I went to my local home depot and they say the wipe on (can) version is unavailable.. has anyone had any luck finding it? I grabbed Verathane which seems identical just a different brand. Lowes does not carry this any more either, same goes for walmart.
 
armanslr said:
I went to my local home depot and they say the wipe on (can) version is unavailable.. has anyone had any luck finding it? I grabbed Verathane which seems identical just a different brand. Lowes does not carry this any more either, same goes for walmart.
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The main reason to use the particular specified brand and exact type of the Helmsman Spar Cleargloss is because of the UV protection, has outdoor application and that it comes in "clear gloss". I've heard of people having problems when they bought any other types. I'm not sure why people are having a hard time finding this stuff....? Here in Daytona Beach, FL....Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart and Ace Haedware all carry it.
I would go as far as to order it online if necessary, to make sure you have the correct type. You can do bunches of headlights with that one can.
 
Minwax spar varnish has been removed from store shelves in some areas due to their VOC regulations. I believe it is restricted in all of California now, but still available in Nevada.
 
I use Verethane spar which worked really well so far on the 3 headlighes I have done. You can still buy the Minwax spar varnish but only in the spray can.
 
Headlight looks great. I would add: Don't use any material that has any wax in it before coating. Also, use only pure alcohol, not rubbing alcohol (has 30% water in it).And don't use any mixing sup that is wax coated. Wax and moisture are your enemies.

The Minwax spar varnish is no longer in some areas iincluding all of California and may be dropped in the future due to VOC regulations.

Regards,
Ray6
 
I have used alcohol from target I think, that has 91% alcohol. It has worked great for me. I have also used OMS to clean based on people on here suggesting that you don't need to buy other products. The OMS takes longer to evaporate. I have had no issues with either one. I will say that I do keep the alcohol around because when I have made a mistake applying the spar, such as my hand dipping and leaving a small area uncoated, or an area that streaked due to smudging it, I clean with alcohol. The Alcohol cleans the still wet spar much faster than OMS does, and again, it dries faster.
 
Did another set yesterday!
I got to do another headlight restoration on my neighbors Mustang.I used (2)500 & (1)800 grit Unigrit disks on each then a 3000 Unigrit foam finishing disk. Then compounded them with Turtle Wax premium grade compound. This was done with a PC DA polisher.

Followed that with a mineral spirits wipe the an application of Spar-Urethane.A 320 grit sanding block was used on the passenger side at beginning to speed up process. It went well and am quite please with the results and income generated.

Also I've gotten better at the photo editing,learned a new trick!After photos were taken after sundown,before photos while sun was out.

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