Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

[Part-timer]

I agree with mr.fusion. Spar is a decent inexpensive DIY fix but it most definitely doesn't last. Opti-coat and Optilens are much better options. I'm sold on O-lens 1000000000%

I have been doing the spar method for 3 years with success. Yesterday my used car dealer finally is pressuring me to use another product. I'm not sure if spar has changed its formula but, I am going to try the Opti-Lens. I told him that my price is going to increase a lot.....I havent figured out how much to charge yet. The opti-lens site says you can do 5-6 sets of headlights with one 10cc tube($49.99) The spar is $16.00 per quart......quite a difference. Any suggestions on price?

 

[jrs1418]

Hmm.. spar changing formula? Interesting idea, because one of my headlights I did over a year ago still looks decent, but the other one I did back in April is already starting to fade. But honestly, I rushed the 2nd headlight job and always thought it didnt look good enough.

Sign up with Optimum as an authorized installer, that's what I did. If you're a legit business its real easy, just fill out a form and done. Then you can buy O-Lens from them for (iirc) $100 for 40cc's + Ship.

 

[kaimanson]

I agree with mr.fusion. Spar is a decent inexpensive DIY fix but it most definitely doesn't last. Opti-coat and Optilens are much better options. I'm sold on O-lens 1000000000%

thanks guys for the quick response. I guess that I may give a try to the "Optilens" how many cars can you do with one kit?

It looks that it is easier to apply than the spar.

where do I need to go to become an authorized installer?
Thanks again!

 

[jrs1418]

It is NOT easier than the spar, but application is easy. For OC or OL, you need a polishing step where with spar you can go straight from #2000 to application and it will fill the scratches. That, and you also need to clean off the polish oils real well before OC or OL application

 

[Helljumper09]

I don't see the lenses failing in 6-12 months as some have said. I have more than a couple that have lasted over three years and look nearly as good as when I restored them. Maybe the formulation of the Spar has changed but I'm getting well past 6-12 months before the lenses start to fail again. I go as far as offering a 2 year warranty against failure and have't had one claim yet. I am from michigan, maybe they don't fail as fast up here cuz it's not as hot or something, IDK?

 

[jrs1418]

There's a lot of variables involved of course. But where I am (Hawaii), the UV index is much higher than MI. As of today was level "10", gets as high as level "12" during the summer.

Lenses turn yellow from UV degradation. A garage kept car will see less UV degradation than a car that gets daily full sun. Same concept as getting a sunburn at the beach, but not in your living room.

Both Spar & OC (O-Lense) have UV inhibitors but OC's exceed Spar, and here's the proof (ongoing).

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/61873-long-term-review-spar-vs-opti-pro-pics.html

 

[Helljumper09]

I mis-spoke when I said it doesn't get as hot. I guess what I meant is we probably don't get the UV levels some states do. I looked at the long term review and I don't get any waviness in my application of the spar. I don't know if it has to do with the way I mix it or the proportions of the spar vs. MS but I get perfectly clear results 99% of the time. Maybe I've just gotten lucky is all but never had a problem with it coming out hazy or unlevel. I guess the other reason I don't switch to another product is the cost. I can get a whole quart of spar and a bottle of MS for between $20 and $25 depending on where I shop. That other stuff would cost at least twice that and wouldn't be able to cover as many cars as the spar/MS method. I would gladly go back and redo one of my restorations again and still have more product leftover. Just my thoughts, take them for what they are I guess.

 

[jrs1418]

Of course, you have what works for you and I definitely am not an expert on the spar. I would tho, recommend you at least try OC or OL one day.

If your spar looked like mine (minwax gloss urethane spar), it had a brownish coloration out of the can. And even when mixed with MS @ 1:1, it still has a noticeable caramel coloration to it. This color makes the final result not optically clear.

When you sand/polish out/Opti-lens, the headlights will look clearer because the OL flashes dry completely clear. When my Spar-vs-OC test started, this was very noticeable in person, and you can even see it in some of the beginning pics.

I promise you, I dont work for Opt. And i was probably more skeptical than most about these coatings. But so far, i've been testing them randomly and I'm 90% impressed. The only thing that really bugs me is that application can be tricky.

Right now, on my employees hood I have a test between OC & Wolfs HB. He has a single stage white camry that is completely oxidized looking. I'll post up the pics one day soon in another thread.

 

[Deranged_9n3]

I have been following this thread for a while now and I want to ask a question to the guys out there using this product. Now I am from South Africa and the issue we have is access to Helmsman Spar Urethane. I have checked online what the product consists of and what it does and I suspect I have found a local product with the same characteristics. Please see my below link

Products - Woodoc

The product states that it is clear with a low gloss finish. It also feels watery and not like a thick substance. Any help or insight regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated.

 

[pman626]

I am experimenting on one headlight with Bulldog Adhesion promoter. I know it's used as a flex agent in clear coats, so I thought what the heck.
I had a can laying around, and decided to spray a headlight with it.
It does not have an amber tint like spar. Sprayed a few thin coats, then wet sanded and polished. We'll see how long it holds.

 

[light-bright]

I am experimenting on one headlight with Bulldog Adhesion promoter. I know it's used as a flex agent in clear coats, so I thought what the heck.
I had a can laying around, and decided to spray a headlight with it.
It does not have an amber tint like spar. Sprayed a few thin coats, then wet sanded and polished. We'll see how long it holds.

I have had a similar thought. The only thing I thing you may be missing is to apply a real clear coat. While the adhesion promoter is clear it was never intended to be a top coat. Maybe 2-3 AP then the clear will be a good long term option. The down side is over spray and conditions like wind and such. Now if you have a shop and or the lights are removed it may be a great idea.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using AG Online

 

[barkeater]

Of course, you have what works for you and I definitely am not an expert on the spar. I would tho, recommend you at least try OC or OL one day.

If your spar looked like mine (minwax gloss urethane spar), it had a brownish coloration out of the can. And even when mixed with MS @ 1:1, it still has a noticeable caramel coloration to it. This color makes the final result not optically clear.

When you sand/polish out/Opti-lens, the headlights will look clearer because the OL flashes dry completely clear. When my Spar-vs-OC test started, this was very noticeable in person, and you can even see it in some of the beginning pics.

I promise you, I dont work for Opt. And i was probably more skeptical than most about these coatings. But so far, i've been testing them randomly and I'm 90% impressed. The only thing that really bugs me is that application can be tricky.

Right now, on my employees hood I have a test between OC & Wolfs HB. He has a single stage white camry that is completely oxidized looking. I'll post up the pics one day soon in another thread.

Not sure why your mix has brown tint (contamination?) but I have just applied to my headlights this spring and as a result of my own doing (painters tape) I have a few spots of where the coating has come off. What this does is give me a perfect opportunity to see if there is any discoloration (i.e., brown tint) and there is none. Other than the visible edge where the coating ends, there is little to no difference in the clarity between that which is coated and that which is not. Obviously, your experience is different. Could be due to the ms or contamination from mixing.

 

[Part-timer]

Of course, you have what works for you and I definitely am not an expert on the spar. I would tho, recommend you at least try OC or OL one day.

If your spar looked like mine (minwax gloss urethane spar), it had a brownish coloration out of the can. And even when mixed with MS @ 1:1, it still has a noticeable caramel coloration to it. This color makes the final result not optically clear.

When you sand/polish out/Opti-lens, the headlights will look clearer because the OL flashes dry completely clear. When my Spar-vs-OC test started, this was very noticeable in person, and you can even see it in some of the beginning pics.

I promise you, I dont work for Opt. And i was probably more skeptical than most about these coatings. But so far, i've been testing them randomly and I'm 90% impressed. The only thing that really bugs me is that application can be tricky.

Right now, on my employees hood I have a test between OC & Wolfs HB. He has a single stage white camry that is completely oxidized looking. I'll post up the pics one day soon in another thread.

What do you use to sand/polish headlights that come to a point in corners or have tight spaces? I tried Opti-Lens and found that it takes a ton more sanding/compounding/polishing and still didn't look as good as the spar. The spar has that "Wet look" that I didn't get with the Opti-Lens.

 

[pman626]

I have had a similar thought. The only thing I thing you may be missing is to apply a real clear coat. While the adhesion promoter is clear it was never intended to be a top coat. Maybe 2-3 AP then the clear will be a good long term option. The down side is over spray and conditions like wind and such. Now if you have a shop and or the lights are removed it may be a great idea.

The tricky thing is the bulldog datasheet says NOT to put it on polycarbonate, which is what headlight lenses are. But so far I've had it on about a month with no ill effects.
Will report back in several months if it flakes and yellows like typical rattle can clear coats, or if it peels off like spar. Since adhesion is its main feature, I doubt it will peel.

 

[jrs1418]

Not sure why your mix has brown tint (contamination?) but I have just applied to my headlights this spring and as a result of my own doing (painters tape) I have a few spots of where the coating has come off. What this does is give me a perfect opportunity to see if there is any discoloration (i.e., brown tint) and there is none. Other than the visible edge where the coating ends, there is little to no difference in the clarity between that which is coated and that which is not. Obviously, your experience is different. Could be due to the ms or contamination from mixing.

Your spar comes out of the can clear?

What state are you in? (Edit: I saw Buffalo, NY)
UV Index | SunWise | US EPA

I'm in Hawaii, which gets 3-4 times the UV rays you do. Our results are going to differ solely based on that. That also means that i'm going to see an accelerated degrading of all headlight coatings and I'm telling you that spar failed and OC is still raging on.

Could there be a possibility of some kind of application/user error? Yes of course. But honestly there is not much science involved. I've probably done a good 50-100 sets of headlights with spar so it was all pretty easy to mix up. Applying OC correct is just as difficult imo because of the prep work needed for proper bonding.

Anyways like I said, i recommend you try opti-lens and see for yourself how much cleaner and clearer the lights look.

 

[jrs1418]

What do you use to sand/polish headlights that come to a point in corners or have tight spaces? I tried Opti-Lens and found that it takes a ton more sanding/compounding/polishing and still didn't look as good as the spar. The spar has that "Wet look" that I didn't get with the Opti-Lens.

I do all sanding by hand 800#-3000#. Only on bad bad bad headlights do i break out the 500# Megs 3" sanding disks on my porter cable.

If you sand a cross hatching pattern all the way up to 3000# you can easily catch tight areas by hand with polish.

Headlights like on a Nissan Quest minivan.. hard but do-able

 

[Part-timer]

I do all sanding by hand 800#-3000#. Only on bad bad bad headlights do i break out the 500# Megs 3" sanding disks on my porter cable.

If you sand a cross hatching pattern all the way up to 3000# you can easily catch tight areas by hand with polish.

Headlights like on a Nissan Quest minivan.. hard but do-able

Yes, the Quest is odd shaped, as are many others. You're very lucky if you can start with 800 and rarely ever have to go below 500. Headlights must be different in Hawaii than in Florida because 95% of the lights I do are only worn off on the top 1/4 to 1/3, which require me to use 400 and sometimes as low as 280 to even start to remove the original coating. I've even tried the, "only restore the part thats worn off" method and that always leaves a noticable line.....so I have to remove ALL of the old coating for an even look when finished. I would LOVE to only do the lights that have all of the original coating already removed!! Thats so much easier. I'm just frustrated by how much more sanding/polishing required by the Opti-lens. I have a Griot's 6" orbital (I didn't like their 3") and tried polishing the crap out of a set of Taurus SUV lights last weekend.......then applying the opyi-lens and they still looked kind of dull compared to a set of lights I did using the spar. What actually happened was, I sanded them.....compounded them and coated them with the liquid gold. They looked very dull and could see some sanding marks.......so I compounded the coating off and compounded some more.....then cleaned and recoated again. Let it dry and still just didn't have the wow factor. I left it that way and my dealer was not impressed. He wants me to redo it and use spar. So thats where I'm at. I've probably done over 200 sets of lights in the past 3 years and tried several different products. The Opti-lens probably works great on those lights that have the right shape to be able to use a machine for all of your sanding and polishing.....so that you can polish them to the point of looking like glass(kind of like aluminum looks chrome) and then coat them with opti-lens. I do find it interesting that in the demonstrations they always use a very simple shaped lens and not something like a Nissan Quest........anyway......maybe I should just change my name from Part-timer to Whiner.....or Frustrated in Florida.....lol

 

[jrs1418]

Very tru about factory coatings. They are a pain to sand off by hand. Try Megs 500# 3" discs on your griots. You probably also have to buy the right backing plate but litterally you can blast through factory coatings and heavily oxidized headlights in seconds by machine, then hit the tight areas by hand. Trust me it save a lot of time.

On a side note, if you're doing dealership work spar might be a better option. Dealers notoriously only care about how the car looks until its sold. And they like the work CHEAP. Spar definitely delivers for fast efficient and cheap restores.

 

[Kaban]

the can of spar i have is also gold/brown in color

 

[barkeater]

Your spar comes out of the can clear?

No, nor did I say it did

What state are you in? (Edit: I saw Buffalo, NY)
UV Index | SunWise | US EPA

I'm in Hawaii, which gets 3-4 times the UV rays you do. Our results are going to differ solely based on that. That also means that i'm going to see an accelerated degrading of all headlight coatings and I'm telling you that spar failed and OC is still raging on.

Agreed to a point. UV index would be a large contributing factor to the life span of a coating, but there are others that are just as important (i.e., we have acid rain which you do not).

Could there be a possibility of some kind of application/user error? Yes of course. But honestly there is not much science involved. I've probably done a good 50-100 sets of headlights with spar so it was all pretty easy to mix up. Applying OC correct is just as difficult imo because of the prep work needed for proper bonding.

Anyways like I said, i recommend you try opti-lens and see for yourself how much cleaner and clearer the lights look.

Not referring to science when mentioning contamination. In my albeit much more limited experience, I have found that the slightest amount of contamination (i.e., water, etc.) will cause the spar to dry with a cloudy look in spot and/or streak). Can't speak to Opticoat as I've never used it. From what I have read it is a superior product to the spar solution. The only thing keeping me from trying it is the cost as I am not in the detail business. If I get the opportunity though I will give it a try for sure.