poor boy trim restore

Not a spray, you put some on a rag and wipe it on.
 
It used to come with a sprayer a long long time ago ...... but best way to apply is use a foam paint brush. Put a couple of drops on the tip, paint on to a nice even coat don't leave much excess on the surface it isn't needed. Let sit for 15-20 min for decent shape trim then buff off with a COTTON cloth not microfiber. For very faded trim let sit overnight, buff than re-apply.

-Chris
 
thanks!!!!! and ive notice it streaks when it gets wet what do i do to make it not streak???
 
Pockets @Poorboy'sWorld said:
It used to come with a sprayer a long long time ago ...... but best way to apply is use a foam paint brush. Put a couple of drops on the tip, paint on to a nice even coat don't leave much excess on the surface it isn't needed. Let sit for 15-20 min for decent shape trim then buff off with a COTTON cloth not microfiber. For very faded trim let sit overnight, buff than re-apply.

-Chris
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Chris,
About how long should the trim dressing last on trim with California weather?
 
Pockets @Poorboy'sWorld said:
It used to come with a sprayer a long long time ago ...... but best way to apply is use a foam paint brush. Put a couple of drops on the tip, paint on to a nice even coat don't leave much excess on the surface it isn't needed. Let sit for 15-20 min for decent shape trim then buff off with a COTTON cloth not microfiber. For very faded trim let sit overnight, buff than re-apply.

-Chris
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Chris,

Why use a cotton towel instead of MF?

It seems to apply fine when I use a yellow foam wax applicator.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Chris,

Why use a cotton towel instead of MF?

It seems to apply fine when I use a yellow foam wax applicator.
Click to expand...

Looks like there is a connection between a foam brush and a foam wax applicator...:poke:
 
my fiancee's jeep fender flares were completely bleached and faded from the sun. i ended up needing to apply generous amounts and multiple times to achieve the result i was after and there's really no need to buff it off. says so on the bottle.

i really wish i took before and after shots.
 
rwright said:
LOL! I couldn't resist that, I mean you really set yourself up!

Seriously though, I'm waiting for Pockets' response as well about cotton vs. mf.
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Yup very interesting on this one. I am also eagerly awaiting a response as I use MF's and never had any problems.:hungry:
 
How does PBTR compare with Megs Ultimate Protectant? Is it worth the cost difference?
 
rwright said:
LOL! I couldn't resist that, I mean you really set yourself up!

Seriously though, I'm waiting for Pockets' response as well about cotton vs. mf.
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I think it has to do with the fact that a cotton towel will absorb liquid instead of repeal water like Microfiber seems to do. You want to wipe up and soak up any residual product that has not penetrated into the trim. The residual product is what runs down the paint when it gets wet.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/22085-review-poorboy-s-world-trim-restorer.html
 
I'm going to have to bookmark this thread to get tips for when I use it.
 
I have been using PB TR for some time now and am just about at the bottom of my second quart bottle.(approx. 1 Qt. per 50 jobs) When I am working on a car with severely neglected and faded rubber and/or plastic trim, I apply a generous amount of TR to all exterior trim after the initial wash before doing any other detailing/paint correction steps. I use a 1 inch solvent proof paint brush to apply it. I will then do all the other stuff that needs done to the car. (clay, cut, polish etc.etc.) Sometimes I will re wet the trim with TR during the other processes if the trim is in real bad shape. I want the TR on there wet so that it really restores the trim. (and it does to an extent)

I have a few reasons for doing this.
1. If the trim pieces stay wet with TR (dwell time) it does have a restorative effect.
2.While the trim pieces are coated with TR, polish and wax etc. can not absorb into those pieces, saving me time and tape.

After the finishing stages of polishing the paint I wash the car again to get all the dust and polish splatter off of the car. During this wash I make sure to hit all the trim pieces good with the soapy mitt and to concentrate a stream of water in and around all the cracks where the TR can get into so that the residue doesn't come out after I have left the job. After I wash and dry, I wax or seal the paint and the job is done.

If I am dealing with a repeat customer where the trim is in good shape I show up at the job location and the first thing I do after greeting with the customer is to apply my TR on all exterior trim as described above. I do this even before unloading all my gear and getting started on the wash. I do this first so that the TR has some 20 minutes of dwell time to do it's job. Then I wash and wax the car and I am out of there. This way there is no chance that the streaks will reveal themselves after I am gone.

I do the 1 inch paint brush generous application of TR because it provides longer durability as it soaks into the trim better than just wiping a thin coating of it on. IME the thin coating doesn't last long. It would work fine for my own car that gets taken care of obsessively but it won't last more than the first wash unless applied generously and allowed to dwell and since I am using this stuff on customers cars, the only dwell time I have is the time that I am on the job.

Beware...If you do apply this product "generously" and do not wash the car after it's use the TR will seek out the cracks and crevices and will lay in there wet, do not think that it won't run down all over the painted panels if the car gets rained on shortly after you leave the job.

These are just some of the ways that "I" use TR. It works for me.
 
veeko said:
my fiancee's jeep fender flares were completely bleached and faded from the sun. i ended up needing to apply generous amounts and multiple times to achieve the result i was after and there's really no need to buff it off. says so on the bottle.

i really wish i took before and after shots.
Click to expand...

i checked her fender flares again and i must say they are still looking like new after a week of driving. keeping in mind they were severely bleached and faded the first time i applied this product i made sure i wasn't using too much and only applied i light glaze, basically enough to show it was working. after an hour or so i noticed it dried up and the fender flares didn't look any better than they previously did. the second time around i really caked it on but still ensuring i was applying it evenly. the results were amazing and they look as if they just left the showroom floor.

if you're planning on using this product on customer vehicles i would recommend applying a rather generous amount and not buffing it off to avoid the customer coming back for another application. just my 2 cents...
 
We applied TR to tyhe plastic fuel tank on my CASE IH 7120 tractor yesterday. Plastic was quite faded. Really made it darker again. Another coat will be applied today.

As for asking Pockets why he uses acotton towel instead of a microfiber is that the MF towel will NOT come clean and basically you now have a shop rag after using trim restore from my experience.
 
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