vinyl stripes

DP200248721

DP200248721

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hello everyone(first new thread)

i'm currently being asked to do some correction work on a 2007 Mustang with vinyl stripes "owner put them on" but his GF tells me they stripes are becoming discolored and, i believe, she mentioned they're beginning to rise along the edges, any way to fix this... both the vinyl's discoloration/rise? not used to dealing with aftermarket striping so i would figure i'd ask first, i'm doing this as a favor (paint correction portion) but i'd like to know what are my options

PS haven't actually seen the car yet so the severity of the issue is unknown

Thanks in advance,
Spencer
 
303 would probably help the color, if they are raising on the edges the only fix I know of is replacement.

Dave
 
I've had good luck with Meguiar's Trim Detailer to restore and maintain the color of vinyl pinstripes and vinyl graphics. I have an article about this in the "Hot Topics" forum group on MOL.

If they are lifting, then like Dave said the only real cure is to replace them with new stripes.


:)
 
thank u gentlemen, i figured the only fix would be replacement but i didn't wanna give him false info before i knew for sure, i'll let him know

thanks again,
Spencer
 
Interesting article. I also have a Mustang with vinyl stripes on it. They're doing ok, but this topic reminded me about a question I have on pinstripes in general. Cars that come with factory pinstriping: Are these embedded into/under the clearcoat or are they always added AFTER the total paint job? It would make sense to embed the stripes between the clearcoat and the base paint. That way you could polish and wax your car's surface without worry or risk to the pinstripes themselves. If they're usually applied over the top coat, is there any way to use a sealant or some product to encase these stripes for protection?

AM
 
usually on top of all paint. Unless you get painted pinstripes I would not try to encase the vinyl as funny things can happen during contraction and expansion. Maybe do as Mike was talking using Meguiars Trim Detailer. I have put wax/polish sealant over the vinyl stripes with no adverse affects so far.

Dave
 
davidc said:
I have put wax/polish sealant over the vinyl stripes with no adverse affects so far.

Dave
Click to expand...


Alphamale said:
If they're usually applied over the top coat, is there any way to use a sealant or some product to encase these stripes for protection?

AM
Click to expand...

You can use what you like or whatever you can find that you want to at least try, but test any wax or sealant out first and make sure it doesn't dry white or dull the pin stripes or vinyl graphics before applying to the entire surface area.

That's why I stick with something like the Trim Detailer as it doesn't dry white and turn surfaces opaque...


:)
 
davidc said:
usually on top of all paint. Unless you get painted pinstripes I would not try to encase the vinyl as funny things can happen during contraction and expansion. Maybe do as Mike was talking using Meguiars Trim Detailer. I have put wax/polish sealant over the vinyl stripes with no adverse affects so far.

Dave
Click to expand...

Thanks, Dave. How did you apply it? If by hand, would you ever try machine application (PC 7424XP)?
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
You can use what you like or whatever you can find that you want to at least try, but test any wax or sealant out first and make sure it doesn't dry white or dull the pin stripes or vinyl graphics before applying to the entire surface area.

That's why I stick with something like the Trim Detailer as it doesn't dry white and turn surfaces opaque...


:)
Click to expand...

Thanks, Mike. The problem is, these stripes are thin and there is a small space between them. I'd like to make sure that the paint between these stripes are polished/waxed. Since I will be using a PC to buff with, I was wondering if I can safely go over these without fear of pulling them off the paint with the buffer. Or do you think that the adhesive is strong enough to withstand this?
 
Your problem is a common problem for anyone that buys a new car with vinyl stripes or graphics.

Usually people don't figure out how they're going to wax the paint between and around the graphics till after they purchase the car, then they find out what a pain in the behind it is and all the ramifications involved like,

  • Avoiding getting polish and wax residue around all the edges and having it dry white and look ugly when working by hand.
  • Figuring a way to remove the wax residue around all the edges without harming the paint or the vinyl and without it taking a long time.
  • How to avoid lifting the edges of vinyl graphics anytime you work on the car.
  • Figuring out how to take care of the graphics so they always look new, not faded and blotchy.
  • How to machine polish and wax the paint around the graphics or stripes so as not to cream out the edges with product residue.

Those are off the top of my head but I'm sure there's others...


No easy way, no fast way to do what you want to do. Some vinyl pinstripes or graphics you can run a polishing pad on a DA Polisher over and it won't cause any harm, but you would have to test each product you want to use and see how the graphics react. Hope nothing bad happens because there's usually no "inconspicuous" area to test on...


To date, the only safe way is to work by hand and use products that don't stain trim white. Take your time, slow down and work carefully around any stripes or graphics.


Maybe others will chime in with fast, easy, safe ways to to work around vinyl stripes and graphics...


:)
 
I have used a rotary and wool pads on vinyl stripes/decals with out problems but that does not mean it is carved in stone. By hand would be the safest unless you feel lucky. I have also seen the dual stripes that are actually one stripe with clear vinyl between them so there is no real paint exposed between the color stripes. If you try the buffer go slow on the speed at least until you see how the stripes are being affected.

Dave
 
davidc said:
I have used a rotary and wool pads on vinyl stripes/decals with out problems
Click to expand...


Interesting...

I've used a wool pad on a rotary buffer to remove vinyl stripes and decals...


For anyone reading this, if you're working on your own or a customer's car with vinyl strips or graphics of any type, just be sure to do some testing before going over the entire car...


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Your problem is a common problem for anyone that buys a new car with vinyl stripes or graphics.

Usually people don't figure out how they're going to wax the paint between and around the graphics till after they purchase the car, then they find out what a pain in the behind it is and all the ramifications involved like,

  • Avoiding getting polish and wax residue around all the edges and having it dry white and look ugly when working by hand.
  • Figuring a way to remove the wax residue around all the edges without harming the paint or the vinyl and without it taking a long time.
  • How to avoid lifting the edges of vinyl graphics anytime you work on the car.
  • Figuring out how to take care of the graphics so they always look new, not faded and blotchy.
  • How to machine polish and wax the paint around the graphics or stripes so as not to cream out the edges with product residue.
Those are off the top of my head but I'm sure there's others...


No easy way, no fast way to do what you want to do. Some vinyl pinstripes or graphics you can run a polishing pad on a DA Polisher over and it won't cause any harm, but you would have to test each product you want to use and see how the graphics react. Hope nothing bad happens because there's usually no "inconspicuous" area to test on...


To date, the only safe way is to work by hand and use products that don't stain trim white. Take your time, slow down and work carefully around any stripes or graphics.


Maybe others will chime in with fast, easy, safe ways to to work around vinyl stripes and graphics...


:)
Click to expand...

Mike, great advice. I usually use an old soft bristle toothbrush to remove wax residue from the sides of these stripes. Is that a supported method in your opinion? In the past, when I did not own a PC (just got one), I'd always wax these areas in long sweeping strokes and then remove the residue with same long strokes and a MF towel, finishing with the toothbrush along the sides of the stripes. Should I continue this way? TIA,

AM
 
Alphamale said:
I usually use an old soft bristle toothbrush to remove wax residue from the sides of these stripes. Is that a supported method in your opinion?
Click to expand...

I've used nylon brushes of all types, I used to have a small brush, with a single row of only a small bundle of nylon bristles and this worked pretty well because you didn't have all these other bundles of nylon bristles touching the paint.

I've used my fingernail, even a toothpick, pretty much whatever I can find at the time. In most cases, any car I'm working on with stripes or graphics has The Other Guy's Wax already present so I have to remove theirs and mine.


TOGW = The Other Guy's Wax



Alphamale said:
In the past, when I did not own a PC (just got one), I'd always wax these areas in long sweeping strokes and then remove the residue with same long strokes and a MF towel, finishing with the toothbrush along the sides of the stripes. Should I continue this way? TIA,

AM
Click to expand...


That method actually works really well. When working with these types of stripes and graphics you often have to compromise somewhere...


:)
 
davidc said:
I have used a rotary and wool pads on vinyl stripes/decals with out problems but that does not mean it is carved in stone. By hand would be the safest unless you feel lucky. I have also seen the dual stripes that are actually one stripe with clear vinyl between them so there is no real paint exposed between the color stripes. If you try the buffer go slow on the speed at least until you see how the stripes are being affected.

Dave
Click to expand...

Understood. But how can you see how it's affecting them when they're covered by product? I'm worried that when I remove the residue, I'll see nothing there at all! It's then a little too late to stop using that method. I guess I'm looking for someone who has successfully used the PC 7424XP (or similar) on these stripes. What speeds were used, how aggressive was the polish, how fast was your arm speed...stuff like that.

Thanks,
AM
 
By far the easiest method I've found is to run masking tape along the edges of the stripes. It can take some time if you've got intricate shapes to go around, but if we're talking about straight "racing stripes" down the hood/roof/trunk it takes a matter of 5 minutes tops to mask them.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Interesting...

I've used a wool pad on a rotary buffer to remove vinyl stripes and decals...

:)
Click to expand...

Guess it depends on the prep when putting the stripes on. When I repainted my roadrunner many years ago 1970 had 3 stripes and the letters roadrunner (cut out of the large center stripe) on the back of the trunk lid. I painted the stripes and the letters then clear coated the lid but the original factory stripes held up to everything except the DA and 80 grit sand paper. The roadrunner bird decals on the front fenders I have always waxed around by hand as those are decals and expensive to replace.

Dave
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
By far the easiest method I've found is to run masking tape along the edges of the stripes.
Click to expand...

That can work... if the car is older you need to be careful the masking tape doesn't pull off portions of pin strips or graphics or lift the tips up...


Usually when using tape like this you need to run the tape just a little past the edge of the actual vinyl so it attaches to the paint, then no residue can get to the edge of the stripes or graphics...

That's when someone chimes in...

What about the paint under the masking tape? How do you polish and wax this paint?


:props:
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
By far the easiest method I've found is to run masking tape along the edges of the stripes. It can take some time if you've got intricate shapes to go around, but if we're talking about straight "racing stripes" down the hood/roof/trunk it takes a matter of 5 minutes tops to mask them.
Click to expand...

I understand what you're saying. But these are pinstripes perhaps 1/16 to 1/8 wide. Some on my car were vinyl that I applied a long time ago and still in excellent shape. But I also had an artist actually paint long straight pinstripes that ended in a "fish-hook" design. I wish I could remember what kind of paint it was. She worked third-party for a car dealer where I bought the car. This was thirteen years ago. The stripes still look vibrant and there's absolutely no show of wear or fading, although I do keep the car in a garage and only bring it out for inspections and car shows. So, I'd say the paint was some sort of lacquer or resin acrylic. These I definitely do NOT want to damage by using a DA machine with a paint correction polish. I'm wondering if I can still get away with light, slow speed buffing with the PC on these stripes.

Any opinions? TIA,

AM
 
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