Megs Body Solvent Safe for All Surfaces?

STi05'

STi05'

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Just wondering if I can spray this stuff all over the car. Or if I have to avoid areas.
Im using it to remove some.. well.. more than some undercoat overspray. More like a fine mist that literally covers my whole truck.. (I sprayed it.. evidently I didnt take the proper precautions.. :doh:)
 
I'd start by reading the instructions on the back of the container. Meguiar's does a pretty good job when it comes to this and the do's and don't's should be stated....
 
That was my first step. However it mentions nothing about what you can and can't use it on.
 
I've used it on paint and glass without issue. Never really tried it on anything else to be honest...I'd probably keep it away from textured trim since it may dry it out. But, I could be wrong.
 
I've used it on any and all side view mirrors, some of them black textured plastics. It's so oily I don't think it will dry and stain the area unless you left it there in the sun. Be sure to wash off thoroughly with soapy water though just to be safe.
 
The issue I found when spraying the whole car is that a lot of it gets entrapped under handles and trim. Rinsing will not always get it all out. This means body solvent will drip out of these places and onto the paint for months to come!

I found that using rubber gloves, respirator, and a disposed-to-be MF towel soaked in Body Solvent wiped on the surface is good enough to remove most stuff, and will not get under the trim.

IF you must spray the whole car I would recommend something more like FK1 #1119 (also sold on AutoGeek). It is not as strong as Body Solvent especially for the really grimy stuff, but rinses off very easy and complete.


With any of these cleaners, though, I would quickly follow up with a mild cleaner or neutralizing shampoo.
 
jlb85 said:
The issue I found when spraying the whole car is that a lot of it gets entrapped under handles and trim. Rinsing will not always get it all out. This means body solvent will drip out of these places and onto the paint for months to come!

I found that using rubber gloves, respirator, and a disposed-to-be MF towel soaked in Body Solvent wiped on the surface is good enough to remove most stuff, and will not get under the trim.

IF you must spray the whole car I would recommend something more like FK1 #1119 (also sold on AutoGeek). It is not as strong as Body Solvent especially for the really grimy stuff, but rinses off very easy and complete.


With any of these cleaners, though, I would quickly follow up with a mild cleaner or neutralizing shampoo.
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Do you think Optimum Power Clean(if you've used it) can remove tough grime un-diluted as well as Meg's body solvent?
 
Ok. Thanks so much everyone for your input! I think I will try the MF soaked in it. Followed by a really good wash or 2, and then clay.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Do you think Optimum Power Clean(if you've used it) can remove tough grime un-diluted as well as Meg's body solvent?
Click to expand...

I'm still trying to find something that Power Clean will not remove diluted at 3:1. I'm still testing this product and haven't used it as much as Total Auto Wash, but so far it hasn't let me down. I'm working on pulling pictures off of my iPhone to upload here of a recent engine detail using Power Clean diluted at 3:1. Stand by.
 
Here are a couple pictures that were taken during the cleaning process, which entailed 2 rounds of Power Clean. The first round of Power Clean was to break up as much junk as possible. The engine was very dirty and I was able to knock out the majority of the mess but some stuff remained. The second round took care of any leftover crud. The pictures below are without dressing applied and only after the first round of Power Clean.

Products used
Optimum Power Clean diluted 3:1
Daytona SpeedMaster Brush
3 gallon bucket, soap & water

Engine before:

Volvo1.JPG


After Power Clean diluted 3:1:

Volvo3.JPG


Engine before:

Volvo2.JPG


After Power Clean diluted 3:1:

Volvo4.JPG
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Very impressive at 3:1! Imagine undiluted!!
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My thoughts exactly!

Back on topic, I'm very curious about the body solvent as well. I spoke with one of the Meguiar's personnel at SEMA regarding the same issue, is it safe for paint? He said that it is indeed safe on paint but do not let it dry and to wash it off as soon as possible. I'm with JLB85 though, spraying onto the body will allow the product to seep into cracks and crevices and will indeed haunt you later. This was the issue I was having with Liquid Natty's Blue beta.
 
rwright said:
My thoughts exactly!

Back on topic, I'm very curious about the body solvent as well. I spoke with one of the Meguiar's personnel at SEMA regarding the same issue, is it safe for paint? He said that it is indeed safe on paint but do not let it dry and to wash it off as soon as possible. I'm with JLB85 though, spraying onto the body will allow the product to seep into cracks and crevices and will indeed haunt you later. This was the issue I was having with Liquid Natty's Blue beta.
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You can let it sit for hours and even days, and it will not damage paint.

Not sure why it would need to be washed off as soon as possible though.
 
Not sure about Power Clean as we have never used it before. Reviews are great, though, and we might get to use it soon (too many things to try out!).

Assuming it is similar to APC+, it will do a great job at jambs. If these are your own jambs and you have time at your side, APC (and OPC) will be just fine. Just keep reapplying until they are clean. For cars that are clean, we stick with APC. Only when we get some nastiness do we break out the Body Solvent.

It is superior to an APC. It will remove the hard, caked, fried on grease that you can't even chisel off. And call me crazy, but the surface looks shiny after Body Solvent is wiped clean and dry. But since the dripping incidents I have opted to rinse off better, and use an APC to wash off the BS (no pun intended!).
 
rwright said:
Here are a couple pictures that were taken during the cleaning process, which entailed 2 rounds of Power Clean. The first round of Power Clean was to break up as much junk as possible. The engine was very dirty and I was able to knock out the majority of the mess but some stuff remained. The second round took care of any leftover crud. The pictures below are without dressing applied and only after the first round of Power Clean.

Products used
Optimum Power Clean diluted 3:1
Daytona SpeedMaster Brush
3 gallon bucket, soap & water

Engine before:

Volvo1.JPG


After Power Clean diluted 3:1:

Volvo3.JPG


Engine before:

Volvo2.JPG


After Power Clean diluted 3:1:

Volvo4.JPG
Click to expand...


Nice, I gotta try some Powerclean...
 
Interesting how a thread regarding Meguiars Body Solvent turns into a discussion about how Optimum is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
 
Grizzly said:
Interesting how a thread regarding Meguiars Body Solvent turns into a discussion about how Optimum is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
Click to expand...

Because it is. Jacob, if you guys want some to sample send me your address in a pm.


Sent using Tapatalk
 
Grizzly said:
Interesting how a thread regarding Meguiars Body Solvent turns into a discussion about how Optimum is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
Click to expand...

Yeah seriously right?
 
rwright said:
Because it is. Jacob, if you guys want some to sample send me your address in a pm.


Sent using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Sorry, but there are far better products out there than the Optimum offerings.

They do have a couple decent products, but its not the second coming.

I can only assume some good old fashioned shilling by some of the posts regarding Optimum I read on this board.
 
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