MG105 with the PC...not a fan so far!

Kristopher1129

Kristopher1129

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I just wanted to run something by you guys real quick. I bought the Meguiars and PC kit a while back. I've used MG105 before, and loved it. But, I always used the Makita and a wool pad. After reading all these positive things about the PC and 105...I figured what the hell...why not try it out.

I gotta say. I'm not getting anywhere near the results with 105 using the PC. As a matter ah fact...I think it blows, haha. I've tried on 3 different occasions now, only to be brought right back to my Makita which worked quickly and flawlessly.

Am I doing something wrong? Or does the Makita and a wool pad just kick that much ass? Cause I cannot for the life of me get 105 to work with the PC. I've been using the Maroon cutting Meguiars pad with the 105. Just like it says to do. I don't get it!

Today was a perfect example. I had some really bad scratches and scuffs to take out. I wet sanded with 2000 grit like usual. Then normally, at this point I would bust out the Makita with a wool pad and 105 and get the 2000 grit scratches right out.

Instead, I picked up the PC and the maroon pad with 105. Went over it two different times. Did about 3 passes up and down, 3 passes left and right SLOWLY both times. The wet sand scratches were still there!!! At that point, I grabbed the Makita and a wool pad...and BOOM, gone in probably 10 seconds. What the heck!?

How are you guys getting out scratches with this thing?? I'm thinking it's gotta be my pad. Should I use a wool pad on the PC?
 
Kristopher1129 said:
I just wanted to run something by you guys real quick. I bought the Meguiars and PC kit a while back. I've used MG105 before, and loved it. But, I always used the Makita and a wool pad. After reading all these positive things about the PC and 105...I figured what the hell...why not try it out.

I gotta say. I'm not getting anywhere near the results with 105 using the PC. As a matter ah fact...I think it blows, haha. I've tried on 3 different occasions now, only to be brought right back to my Makita which worked quickly and flawlessly.

Am I doing something wrong? Or does the Makita and a wool pad just kick that much ass? Cause I cannot for the life of me get 105 to work with the PC. I've been using the Maroon cutting Meguiars pad with the 105. Just like it says to do. I don't get it!

Today was a perfect example. I had some really bad scratches and scuffs to take out. I wet sanded with 2000 grit like usual. Then normally, at this point I would bust out the Makita with a wool pad and 105 and get the 2000 grit scratches right out.

Instead, I picked up the PC and the maroon pad with 105. Went over it two different times. Did about 3 passes up and down, 3 passes left and right SLOWLY both times. The wet sand scratches were still there!!! At that point, I grabbed the Makita and a wool pad...and BOOM, gone in probably 10 seconds. What the heck!?

How are you guys getting out scratches with this thing?? I'm thinking it's gotta be my pad. Should I use a wool pad on the PC?
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A wool pad on a pc will not work, but a purple foam wool will. Try getting a flat 5.5" flat lc pad and prime the whole pad with 105 before polishing. You will see a difference.
 
Rsurfer said:
A wool pad on a pc will not work, but a purple foam wool will. Try getting a flat 5.5" flat lc pad and prime the whole pad with 105 before polishing. You will see a difference.
Click to expand...

I'll have to try that out. Will it work as fast as the Makita with a wool pad? Cause it works FAST.
 
Kristopher1129 said:
I'll have to try that out. Will it work as fast as the Makita with a wool pad? Cause it works FAST.
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i doubt it bro! i know what a makita and a wool pad does! its just insane how fast it works! ive wetsanded to remove all orange peel out and then proceeded with my makita and a wool pad, and two passes of 105 brought out some insane shine, and i wasent even at 205 yet! :D
 
Try a surbuf pad and the da with 105 for wet sand marks , Its good but still not quicker than a makita , just safer in the hands of the average hobby detailer.
 
2old2change said:
Try a surbuf pad and the da with 105 for wet sand marks , Its good but still not quicker than a makita , just safer in the hands of the average hobby detailer.
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:iagree:if you are proficient with the makita I wouldn't mess with removing wetsanding marks with the PC. There are little things you can do to make the PC cut better but you won't touch the speed of the makita even if you are able to get the same end result.

Are you using the a 7424XP or the original 7424?
 
wrxwagon said:
:iagree:if you are proficient with the makita I wouldn't mess with removing wetsanding marks with the PC. There are little things you can do to make the PC cut better but you won't touch the speed of the makita even if you are able to get the same end result.

Are you using the a 7424XP or the original 7424?
Click to expand...

I'm using the XP. I really only bought it to apply wax and sealant. Plus when I do RVs it will come in really handy. I'm sticking with the Makita. I just don't see the point in buying stuff to make the PC work with wetsand scratches. I highly doubt anything I could possibly buy would be even close to what the Makita does. I figured I'd give it a fair shot though. FAIL! lol

I was curious to see if it would work though mainly because I'll be adding a mobile crew this spring. Would have been nice to be able to hand my exterior guy the PC and have him do some correction. Him having the PC wouldn't make me as nervous. I think corrections will be done at the shop only. :dblthumb2:
 
by the way kristopher, what wool pad do you use with the makita?
 
Hey, you got rotary skills, nothin' wrong with that! Use the PC for LSP application and finishing work on finicky paint that is hard to get hologram free with the rotary. No surprise that the rotary/wool corrects faster than the PC/foam, who wants to compound with a "free floating spindle assembly" anyway? LOL
 
A4 1.8tqm said:
Hey, you got rotary skills, nothin' wrong with that! Use the PC for LSP application and finishing work on finicky paint that is hard to get hologram free with the rotary. No surprise that the rotary/wool corrects faster than the PC/foam, who wants to compound with a "free floating spindle assembly" anyway? LOL
Click to expand...

That's what I plan on doing. PC just for wax and sealant, or like you said stubborn paint. I learned my lesson, haha.

I guess going from rotary to orbital is a bad transition, ha. :buffing:
 
A lot of people say that it's very hard (if not impossible) to get out wetsanding marks with a PC. I'm sure it can be done in some instances but everyone says that using a rotary is definitely the quickest and easiest way to do it. So, sounds like you've been doing it right all along.
 
I guess so. I just figured it was worth a shot to see. I've seen videos and stuff of people getting scratches out...but more like microscratches. I'm actually uncomfortable with the PC to be honest. I've been using the Makita for everything for so long...that the PC is just an alien to me, ha.:dblthumb2:

I'm actually going to start a new thread with the scratches I worked on today so you guys can check it out! :Picture:
 
SeaJay's said:
A lot of people say that it's very hard (if not impossible) to get out wetsanding marks with a PC. I'm sure it can be done in some instances but everyone says that using a rotary is definitely the quickest and easiest way to do it. So, sounds like you've been doing it right all along.
Click to expand...

depending on the clear i can easily get 2000 or 2500 grit marks and any left over tracers with 4" orange pad and optimum compound or a 5.5" yellow pad and optimum compound. i don't even use hyper! if the clear is on the soft side a 5.5 orange pad and OC will work but i prefer the speed, heat and control of the smaller pad. i guess it also depends on the size of the area.

the yellow pad will haze but follow it up with an orange pad and optimum polish and it'll look fantastic OR a white pad and optimum polish - it just depends on the clear.

OP a rotary with a wool pad will smoke pretty much anything but i still tend to stick with my PC anyway. the control, lack of holograms and ability to really take the least aggressive approach while using small pads is what keeps me using it. my makita doesn't see that much action at all anymore.
 
builthatch said:
depending on the clear i can easily get 2000 or 2500 grit marks and any left over tracers with 4" orange pad and optimum compound or a 5.5" yellow pad and optimum compound. i don't even use hyper! if the clear is on the soft side a 5.5 orange pad and OC will work but i prefer the speed, heat and control of the smaller pad. i guess it also depends on the size of the area.

the yellow pad will haze but follow it up with an orange pad and optimum polish and it'll look fantastic OR a white pad and optimum polish - it just depends on the clear.

OP a rotary with a wool pad will smoke pretty much anything but i still tend to stick with my PC anyway. the control, lack of holograms and ability to really take the least aggressive approach while using small pads is what keeps me using it. my makita doesn't see that much action at all anymore.
Click to expand...

It just seems to me like the PC is just more work when it comes to correction. I'm comfortable with the rotary, and it flies through stuff.

I see where you're coming from though. I guess once you get used to it, it wouldn't be such a pain. I love the PC for laying wax, and sealant. That's about it so far though. We'll see. I'll keep playing with it here and there. :buffing:
 
Kristopher1129 said:
It just seems to me like the PC is just more work when it comes to correction. I'm comfortable with the rotary, and it flies through stuff.

I see where you're coming from though. I guess once you get used to it, it wouldn't be such a pain. I love the PC for laying wax, and sealant. That's about it so far though. We'll see. I'll keep playing with it here and there. :buffing:
Click to expand...

it is more work and time than a rotary with a wool pad, but i find it is less aggressive to the point where you can feel confident working on uber thin modern clear coats. ESPECIALLY after wetsanding, if you aren't taking measurements you have to be careful with these new cars and to me a PC makes things slow enough where you can't as easily smoke through the clear. it can still happen, believe that, haha, but the margin, the "buffer" (haha) zone is much larger since you are removing so much less material per pass.

but there certainly is nothing wrong with loving your rotary! there are many out there just like you. at least you are open minded and trying different things with the PC. i think that is great.
 
builthatch said:
it is more work and time than a rotary with a wool pad, but i find it is less aggressive to the point where you can feel confident working on uber thin modern clear coats. ESPECIALLY after wetsanding, if you aren't taking measurements you have to be careful with these new cars and to me a PC makes things slow enough where you can't as easily smoke through the clear. it can still happen, believe that, haha, but the margin, the "buffer" (haha) zone is much larger since you are removing so much less material per pass.

but there certainly is nothing wrong with loving your rotary! there are many out there just like you. at least you are open minded and trying different things with the PC. i think that is great.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I like to try any method, tool, product, or anything that I can. I've heard of people doing great corrections with the PC. I'll get it down eventually.

Cause like you said, there probably will be times where I'm gonna want to be more careful and take a less aggressive approach. I can definitely see what you're saying about the PC just being safer. That's kind of the reason I wanted to learn how. I just haven't found my combination with it yet.

I'll take you guys advice and try some different pad combinations. If I don't figure it out...I won't let myself live it down! lol
 
Kristopher1129 said:
I guess so. I just figured it was worth a shot to see. I've seen videos and stuff of people getting scratches out...but more like microscratches. I'm actually uncomfortable with the PC to be honest. I've been using the Makita for everything for so long...that the PC is just an alien to me, ha.:dblthumb2:

I'm actually going to start a new thread with the scratches I worked on today so you guys can check it out! :Picture:
Click to expand...
Being hologram free on black paint with a rotary takes skill, especially on soft paints. You got some skills man, maybe one day I can do that with a rotary.
 
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