2000 Camaro Paint needs help again

some more questions:

*what are some good pads to start out with?
*what are some good compounds and polishes to start off with?

I like the poorboy's "Polish with Sealant" that I have (only used it by hand, probably comes out even better with a DA)..

The car has quite a few scratches and spider webbing in the clear coat

Would these be good products to start off with? :

Poorboy's World Super Swirl Removers Kit, Poorboys super swirl removers, Poorboys polishes, sample kit, polish sample kit


*or Should I buy say SSR2.5 and SSR1 individually? (probably wont need SSR3)
*or should I use up my Meg's Ultimate Compound I have..?

Would you consider the "polish with sealant" product to be similar to their "SSR1" product or no?
 
mammoth713 said:
I'm back again:xyxthumbs:




370839539.jpg
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All I see here is a reflection of Asphalt

Speaking of Asphalt, where the heck is Dana
 
jimmyjam said:
Hey Mammoth,
I just started a thread http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/flex-polishers/34173-flex3401-vs-griot-s-garage-6-rop.html keep an eye on it or ask questions it'll be very informative! It's for all of us that have questions regarding the Flex/DAs.
-Jimmy
Click to expand...


Thanks


OK here is my shopping cart so i'm set for a while..

*Is it wise to purchase this smaller backing plate size attachment so i can have more control in tight areas of the car?
*Would this sampler kit be enough to do a whole car?
Vk7Ua.jpg
 
Flash Gordon said:
Yes, it would be wise to get a smaller adapter

It would also be wise to ditch the PC for a Griots

Yes, that sampler will be enough to do a couple of cars if not more
Click to expand...


what are some better things about the Griot's one? I searched and I cannot find anything really different.. It's more powerful?

Also, I've modified my shopping cart..

*Should I start off with some small bottles of Meg's 105 and 205 to see how they work? *What color pads should I chose to start out with (i was thinking 2 orange, 1 black, 1 red??)
*Is this true that it would be better to have 5.5" pads with the PC rather than 6.5?

Thanks for the help:xyxthumbs:

B87ul.jpg
 
mammoth713 said:
what are some better things about the Griot's one? I searched and I cannot find anything really different.. It's more powerful?

Also, I've modified my shopping cart..

*Should I start off with some small bottles of Meg's 105 and 205 to see how they work? *What color pads should I chose to start out with (i was thinking 2 orange, 1 black, 1 red??)
*Is this true that it would be better to have 5.5" pads with the PC rather than 6.5?

Thanks for the help:xyxthumbs:

B87ul.jpg
Click to expand...

Hey Mammoth,
Sorry for lagging on the response...The real buzz right now is the Meguiars Micro Fiber DA system, now I personally have no experience with the system, but I'm going to purchase the Griots Garage 6"/Megs MF DA system. I am a Flex 3401 fan and if you plan on going that route (not Megs MF DA) 105/205 with 2 orange, 1 white, 1 black for finishing/Jeweling IE... Menzerna PO85RD is a winner (In My Opinion). In the Porter Cable area I'm unaware of the "does and don'ts" maybe someone can chime in...Your cart is definitely good start, I see you've done your homework by some of the items. The first time I made my order with AutoGeek I purchase quite a few things that I haven't even use/bother with.
 
Do step up to a machine for your polishing work, once you do you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. When it comes to working on clear coat paints the human hand, which is actually 4 fingers pushing down on a wax pad, cannot even begin to come close to what a simple machine like the PC and it's knock-offs can do.

Get some 5.5" pads, CCS, Hydro or Flat, while people tend to trend towards one style or the other the fact is that if you're using good chemicals and good technique, all the pads will get the job done.

Read through this,

How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers

LOTS of pictures of pads and backing plates and the tips and techniques in the above article are everything you need to know to get show car results your first time using a PC style polisher.

Example of pics...

5.5" CCS Pad is right at 5.5" in diameter
CCSPads02.jpg





mammoth713 said:
And yeah behind the wheels its faded kind of.. I'm not experienced enough to know if its repairable with a DA or not.. Its

So what do you think about it?
Click to expand...

"You don't know what you can do until you try"

That's what I tell my son all the time and have been posting to forums forever because it's true... you just don't know what you can do until you go out into your garage, fire up your polisher and bring it down on the paint.

Here's my guess...

Machine Polishing that whitish area of paint will remove the topical layer of destroyed clear paint and uncover some fresh clear paint and the effect you will see with your eyes is the white will be gone and the color of the paint will be visible. What you will have done is restored clarity to the clear coat.

To what level you can do this you won't know until you do some buffing but you should be able to improve it enough that it's not a visual eye-sore.

Get some 4" spot repair pads and a 3.5" backing plate too, this will help you to buff the thin panels and work around tight areas. The 4" Hydro-Tech are good for this as well as the 4" CCS Spot Repair Pads.

1994 Porsche Detailed for "Operation Comfort" Modeled by Brittany from Stuart, Florida

The section in front of the windshield was worked-over using a 4" Cyan Pad on the 5.0 Speed setting with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, later to be re-polished with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze on a white 4" CCS pad.

Before
1994BlackPorscheOC021.jpg


1994BlackPorscheOC022.jpg



Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover
1994BlackPorscheOC023.jpg



1994BlackPorscheOC024.jpg
Click to expand...


:xyxthumbs:
 
jimmyjam said:
Hey Mammoth,
Sorry for lagging on the response...The real buzz right now is the Meguiars Micro Fiber DA system, now I personally have no experience with the system, but I'm going to purchase the Griots Garage 6"/Megs MF DA system. I am a Flex 3401 fan and if you plan on going that route (not Megs MF DA) 105/205 with 2 orange, 1 white, 1 black for finishing/Jeweling IE... Menzerna PO85RD is a winner (In My Opinion). In the Porter Cable area I'm unaware of the "does and don'ts" maybe someone can chime in...Your cart is definitely good start, I see you've done your homework by some of the items. The first time I made my order with AutoGeek I purchase quite a few things that I haven't even use/bother with.
Click to expand...

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Do step up to a machine for your polishing work, once you do you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. When it comes to working on clear coat paints the human hand, which is actually 4 fingers pushing down on a wax pad, cannot even begin to come close to what a simple machine like the PC and it's knock-offs can do.

Get some 5.5" pads, CCS, Hydro or Flat, while people tend to trend towards one style or the other the fact is that if you're using good chemicals and good technique, all the pads will get the job done.

Read through this,

How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers

LOTS of pictures of pads and backing plates and the tips and techniques in the above article are everything you need to know to get show car results your first time using a PC style polisher.

Example of pics...

5.5" CCS Pad is right at 5.5" in diameter




"You don't know what you can do until you try"

That's what I tell my son all the time and have been posting to forums forever because it's true... you just don't know what you can do until you go out into your garage, fire up your polisher and bring it down on the paint.

Here's my guess...

Machine Polishing that whitish area of paint will remove the topical layer of destroyed clear paint and uncover some fresh clear paint and the effect you will see with your eyes is the white will be gone and the color of the paint will be visible. What you will have done is restored clarity to the clear coat.

To what level you can do this you won't know until you do some buffing but you should be able to improve it enough that it's not a visual eye-sore.

Get some 4" spot repair pads and a 3.5" backing plate too, this will help you to buff the thin panels and work around tight areas. The 4" Hydro-Tech are good for this as well as the 4" CCS Spot Repair Pads.




:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...


thank you both for the informative replies.. i'll do a bit more research on the stuff.


What is the main difference between the "flat" CCS pads and the "normal ones"? As far as I can tell, the flat ones have a rounded edge which makes it less likely to have the paint come in contact with the plastic pad holder thing?
 
mammoth713 said:
what are some better things about the Griot's one? I searched and I cannot find anything really different.. It's more powerful?

Also, I've modified my shopping cart..

*Should I start off with some small bottles of Meg's 105 and 205 to see how they work? *What color pads should I chose to start out with (i was thinking 2 orange, 1 black, 1 red??)
*Is this true that it would be better to have 5.5" pads with the PC rather than 6.5?

Thanks for the help:xyxthumbs:

B87ul.jpg
Click to expand...


Whats better about the Griots is it has more power then any other. Oh, and did I mention the Lifetime Warranty

Yes, it would be a wise move to order the 105 & 205. I like your order except for the Porter Cable. Replace it with a Griots and your golden IMO

5.5 -VS- 6.5....its really a personal prefrence. I prefer the 5.5's but if your going to get a smaller BP, then you might go with the 6.5's

Hope this helps,

Flash :buffing:
 
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