IMO, the Flex 3401 is no longer DA king...

For example, I wonder what Lake Country is thinking since they will want a piece of the mf action given their market dominance in foam.

Shorten the fibers and vary fiber density to reduce the tendency of fiber lay-down.
 
I NEVER thought I would be saying this as I've been a huge 3401 fan, and still am, BUT, with new pads and products, the "traditional" DA has worked even better for me. I detail mainly daily drivers that have bad swirls(not necessarily oxidized paint). I always start with a test spot, 3401/orange/M105. On the last few cars, this combo just did not cut it. Some of the most aggressive DA pads out there are the Meg's DA MF cutting discs and surbuf. I find it ironic how these pads work more efficiently with a traditional DA. Lately, I've found myself reaching for the Meg's MF discs/D300 and my Griot's DA for heavier cutting. So, people who feel the need to "upgrade" to the 3401, well, I don't find that to be the case anymore. Just some food for thought. :dblthumb2:

Never cared for the FLEX really. Have you tried MF/105/DA yet? Totally different animal with MF then foam IMHO.
 
It's all about the righ tool for the job.... when working on a myriad of paint systems having choices in tools is key
 
The question is if Meg's or someone else will provide a similar solution for the Flex. (doubt Meg's would do it). For example, I wonder what Lake Country is thinking since they will want a piece of the mf action given their market dominance in foam.

It would be nice if they came out with their own MF discs to go with their backing plates. I already have two 5" and two 6" backing plates. I would really like to try the new MF system, but last thing I need is another set of backing plates just to go with the MF discs.

why can't the flex be used with the MF discs?

You can, but Meguiar's recommends their backing plates for the MF discs because their plates have shorter velcro hooks (I think) and that prevents the MF discs from heating up too much.
 
Smooth operation and no vibration is the main ingredient to my enjoyment of the Flex 3401....
To each their own but I like to enjoy the process of correcting a vehicle rather than feel like I am using a jackhammer against concrete.
I don't get that jack hammer feeling with the GG.:dunno: The only thing that pisses me off is that the pad stops rotating at times, but I'm getting used to it. The 3401, m105, Orange just doesn't do the job on heavy swirls.





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Mark, totally agree with you on the way this new system that Megs has put out works. It is not only quicker..but I believe it will be the go to product for a lot of people in the near future. It is practically full proof for new car paint finishes.
:props:



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I read from another post of yours that you were getting tired from using the 3401. Your arms must be 10 times thicker than mine but I've found the 3401 still to be the best and most effective DA (forced or non-forced) machine in the market. More importantly, I don't feel like I've benched 200 pounds all day :laughing:
 
It's all about the right tool for the job.... when working on a myriad of paint systems having choices in tools is key

Genius. Very well said.

Paint systems are different and you can even have different paint systems on a single car. What started out working great on the roof might not work as well on the front right fender. An experienced detailer will notice the change in results and if they have more tools in their arsenal, then they have the ability to try something else.

Tools are more than the polishers we all talk about, they also include your liquids, (paint care products), your pads, pad washers, microfibers, terry cloth towels, Spurs, nylon brushes, air compressors, Paint Thickness Gauges, Painter's Tape, Wheel Maskers, Beach Towels, etc. etc. etc.,

Besides all that, the longer I'm in this industry the more apparent it becomes that people are very different in their personal preferences. Kind of what I call the Coke/Pepsi preferences, they're both colas, but some people love Coke and dislike Pepsi, while others love Pepsi and dislike Coke.

In our Detailing 101 classes here at Autogeek, students have a chance to try ALL the DA Polishers and some people will gravitate towards the Flex 3401, some people will gravitate towards the PC style polishers, (PC, Griot's Meguiar's), and some will gravitate towards the Cyclo Polisher.

And that's one of the cool things about our classes, if your interested in trying out the different polishers, especially if you've never used an electric polishers, you can do this at our Detailing 101 and 102 classes.


Make plans to come to Sunny Stuart, Florida to Autogeek's Show Car Garage and do some of this ---> :buffing:



:D
 
I have measured a few panels after compounding with a 5" MF cutting pad and D300 and the results differed between no difference in paint thickness and a one micro thickness reduction. That is within the margin of error for my ETG-A.

That's very interesting. Did not even think about paint expansion affecting thickness readings. Removing one micron is a lot though from what I have read, especially on newer models with thin clear to begin with.

Rotary-like results to me also means that the potential for burnthrough is there if someone doesn't know what they are doing and buffs too long, or too often, or just reaches for this as their first step every time they buff out their cars instead of doing a proper assessment of the finish.

That said I can't wait to try them!
 
I don't get that jack hammer feeling with the GG.:dunno: The only thing that pisses me off is that the pad stops rotating at times, but I'm getting used to it. The 3401, m105, Orange just doesn't do the job on heavy swirls.





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I get it from the 7424XP, but not with my GG ROP. It's that much smoother. On 5 or 6 my PC is rough. I used both side by side this past weekend.
 
Is m105 fairly easy to work with, with the MF pads? D300 is a breeze.


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I wouldlike to know this as well. I am a big 105/205 fan. I may try the D300, but, hate to spend on it if the 105 is as good/better for this job.
 
Is m105 fairly easy to work with, with the MF pads? D300 is a breeze.

It's like a completely new product when used with MF. Much looooonger work times then with foam and I haven't experienced any product gumming/build up with them either. Try it for yourself and let us know your thoughts.
 
i see almost every one likes to avoid a rotary buffer. i have done a few paint corrections using a rotary and i have never burned paint (i touch the surface to make sure its not TOO hot) and only time i have ever left holograms or swirls is when i go with a aggressive compound/pad which is obvious its going to leave behind marks the need to be further refined with a finer polish and pads. Now, I have NEVER used a DA so i can't say nothing good or bad about it, but if i can handle a rotary, do i need a DA? what would be the difference?
 
I NEVER thought I would be saying this as I've been a huge 3401 fan, and still am, BUT, with new pads and products, the "traditional" DA has worked even better for me. I detail mainly daily drivers that have bad swirls(not necessarily oxidized paint). I always start with a test spot, 3401/orange/M105. On the last few cars, this combo just did not cut it. Some of the most aggressive DA pads out there are the Meg's DA MF cutting discs and surbuf. I find it ironic how these pads work more efficiently with a traditional DA. Lately, I've found myself reaching for the Meg's MF discs/D300 and my Griot's DA for heavier cutting. So, people who feel the need to "upgrade" to the 3401, well, I don't find that to be the case anymore. Just some food for thought. :dblthumb2:
Mark,

Are you using the 5in or 6in discs? anyone have a preference? I like 5.5 in foam pads better than 6.5. Easier to work with and more effective in my opinion. Do the same principles apply to these MF discs? I will be using a GG polisher. I am placing my order this weekend.
 
I NEVER thought I would be saying this as I've been a huge 3401 fan, and still am, BUT, with new pads and products, the "traditional" DA has worked even better for me. I detail mainly daily drivers that have bad swirls(not necessarily oxidized paint). I always start with a test spot, 3401/orange/M105. On the last few cars, this combo just did not cut it. Some of the most aggressive DA pads out there are the Meg's DA MF cutting discs and surbuf. I find it ironic how these pads work more efficiently with a traditional DA. Lately, I've found myself reaching for the Meg's MF discs/D300 and my Griot's DA for heavier cutting. So, people who feel the need to "upgrade" to the 3401, well, I don't find that to be the case anymore. Just some food for thought. :dblthumb2:

Mark, didn't I warn you about posting whilst drinking the ale :laughing: I can't believe your abandoning the Flex. Hey, I have a B' Day coming up pretty soon :)
 
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