New Product - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
- Thread starter Nick McKees37
- Start date
Chris Thomas
Optimum Guru
- Dec 21, 2007
- 1,824
- 0
That is correct.
It is the ULTIMATE wheel protection and makes cleaning a breeze. Essentially you only need to wash with shampoo instead of harsh cleaners and in some cases only pressure wash. As for wheel wells...well, I suppose you could.
The guarantee is going to be offered with the pro product: Opti Guard...not the newly released consumer Opti Coat 2.0. We are working on an interior Opti Guard to complete the system and by the time we release it, we will also release the warranty info.
It will be on the paint untill you abrasively remove it. It is not a sealant that "wears" off, but a coating in the same way that your paint is. If the finish is marring after a few years and you need to polish it aggressive enough that the coating is removed, then you can reapply. But the coating has to be removed completely to "re-coat" the vehicle because it will not adhere to it's self. You can test to see if it is there after polishing by doing a "stripping wash" with Power Clean straight and see it you have any beading while rinsing.
No problemo!
Yes it certainly does, it is very well suited to this task and application couldn't be easier.
AeroCleanse
New member
- Nov 17, 2008
- 2,422
- 0
Interior Opti-Guard, now that has my attention!
Chris Thomas
Optimum Guru
- Dec 21, 2007
- 1,824
- 0
Opti coat is a permanent coating, not a nano sealant, so there really is no reason to compare the two...they are very different. Here is a brief decription of Opti Coat from it's creator, Dr. David Ghodoussi:
"Opti-Coat is not a nano particle, it is rather a pre-polymer that cross links and forms a continuous film on the surfaces it is applied to similar to a single component isocyanate that forms a clear coat finish. Opti-Coat also reacts with the substrate that it is applied to so it will not delaminate. Nano particles are sub micron particles that are created by controlled reactions or by breaking down larger particles. They do not react or form bonds. The application of Opti-Coat takes less than 10 minutes for a full size car, if it is done correctly. It applies just like Opti-Seal, however, if there is over application, you have to remove the excess within the first 10 minutes (just leveling with the applicator-CT). Otherwise, once it cures, you have to buff off the excess (machine polishing-CT). Most people apply this product to one panel at a time and check for any unevenness before moving to the next section. As far as the durability, it is similar to urethane clears. It will not wash away or break down, however, you can polish it over time ! The hardness will increase over time to as it is exposed to heat.
Opti-Coat is based on a resin pre-polymer that we manufacture and once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive coating in use. This coating like a regular clear coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers.
The solvents used in Opti-Coat are also used in hand lotions and other cosmetic products. The polymers, however, are very reactive and should be used with caution and that is one of the reasons we have only offered it to professional detailers till now.-Doctor G"
"Opti-Coat is not a nano particle, it is rather a pre-polymer that cross links and forms a continuous film on the surfaces it is applied to similar to a single component isocyanate that forms a clear coat finish. Opti-Coat also reacts with the substrate that it is applied to so it will not delaminate. Nano particles are sub micron particles that are created by controlled reactions or by breaking down larger particles. They do not react or form bonds. The application of Opti-Coat takes less than 10 minutes for a full size car, if it is done correctly. It applies just like Opti-Seal, however, if there is over application, you have to remove the excess within the first 10 minutes (just leveling with the applicator-CT). Otherwise, once it cures, you have to buff off the excess (machine polishing-CT). Most people apply this product to one panel at a time and check for any unevenness before moving to the next section. As far as the durability, it is similar to urethane clears. It will not wash away or break down, however, you can polish it over time ! The hardness will increase over time to as it is exposed to heat.
Opti-Coat is based on a resin pre-polymer that we manufacture and once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive coating in use. This coating like a regular clear coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers.
The solvents used in Opti-Coat are also used in hand lotions and other cosmetic products. The polymers, however, are very reactive and should be used with caution and that is one of the reasons we have only offered it to professional detailers till now.-Doctor G"
Flash Gordon
Well-known member
- Feb 6, 2010
- 11,440
- 457
Anything that comes in a syringe has got to be potent. Very clever marketing 
rops:
I will add this product to my ever growing bucket wish list...lol
rops:I will add this product to my ever growing bucket wish list...lol
Sunstealer
New member
- Dec 4, 2009
- 58
- 0
Chris, can you go straight from a finishing polish (like Wolfgang Final Glaze) straight to OC or do you have to do a wipe-down first? We noticed that in the demo today, they went straight from polish to OC with just a damp towel wipe in between. Some have recommended doing a full IPA wipe in between, but I worry about marring the paint again with IPA and would not want to lock that in under the OC.
C. Charles Hahn
New member
- Aug 27, 2007
- 3,103
- 0
Gotta say, I was impressed when I heard Renny say earlier that he applied OC to his Chevelle and they measured it to be .2 mils thick 
C. Charles Hahn
New member
- Aug 27, 2007
- 3,103
- 0
I asked that during the class yesterday and Dr. G's answer was that it "depends on the paint" -- Mike Phillips said that as long as proper prep was done with oxidation removed/etc. it should be fine. Evidently he's got Opti-Coat on his personal truck ("the Jimmy") which has single stage paint on it.
RobZ71LM7
New member
- Nov 20, 2010
- 200
- 0
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/34071-my-guide-how-apply-opti-coat.html
Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating FREE BONUS
The above thread is confusing: The thread says Optimum endorses both opti power clean and simply water (water). But the Autogeek instructions mention IPA. While the thread says that Optimum states IPA can damage the finish. What is the correct surface prep after polishing? And does it vary with the polish used?
I'm going to order opti-coat 2.0 an hope he instructions are more clear than what I've seen so far. I'd hate to waste $60 applying it incorrectly.
Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating FREE BONUS
The above thread is confusing: The thread says Optimum endorses both opti power clean and simply water (water). But the Autogeek instructions mention IPA. While the thread says that Optimum states IPA can damage the finish. What is the correct surface prep after polishing? And does it vary with the polish used?
I'm going to order opti-coat 2.0 an hope he instructions are more clear than what I've seen so far. I'd hate to waste $60 applying it incorrectly.
silverfox
New member
- Oct 5, 2010
- 2,813
- 0
I look at it this way...sometimes its best to stay within one manufacturer's family of products. In this case I will use Optimum Hyper Polish as a final finishing polish, then buff it to a super gloss finish...then apply Optimum Opti-Coat 2 immediately afterward...because I know that combo works as per demoed at Detail Fest (without any IPA wipedown or guess work therein regarding paint prep).
Now if the darn weather would break up here.
Now if the darn weather would break up here.
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 1
If one should acknowledge and accept the facts presented that either Opti-Guard (Opti-Coat 1.0) or Opti-Coat 2.0 will become, in essence, part and parcel, the new clear-coat paint film of the vehicle they are applied upon with the implied warranties from Optimum---per your web site---then.....
Will not this basically void the OEM's paint warranty [usually 3-5-or 7 years...(or what I refer to as the "length of loan" terms j/k)] ?
Thanks for any input you may have on this matter.
weavers
New member
- May 4, 2010
- 354
- 0
This sounds like a product to good to be true and at a fair price. one can find other lifetime wax protection products if you search google. but ONR sounded the same way, a to good to be true product, and yet onr is the defining product of my mobile car wash company. i could not do business without onr.
Questions. Any word on how this product does against stone chips? I read it has some swirl protection but what about stone chips? I am looking to an alternative to clear bras. Ho well can this product be polished after it becomes swirled. I am really interested in this product for my car and a few select client's cars.
Questions. Any word on how this product does against stone chips? I read it has some swirl protection but what about stone chips? I am looking to an alternative to clear bras. Ho well can this product be polished after it becomes swirled. I am really interested in this product for my car and a few select client's cars.
Old Tiger
New member
- Oct 27, 2009
- 4,468
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This is my dilemma too!
Chris Thomas
Optimum Guru
- Dec 21, 2007
- 1,824
- 0
The only thing you need to do is make sure the paint is clean and free of debris, waxes, and silicones. How you get there is your prerogative. I use Power Clean because it is easy and much faster for ME to do a wash than to wipe every panel 2-3 times with an IPA mix. Can you use IPA? Certainly, but elsewhere someone has recommended a solution of 90% IPA mixed with 10% detergent. This, is much too high alcohol content to be used safely on all paints/plastics and that is why I do not recommend that mix. If you choose to use IPA as your prep, try to keep the alcohol content around 10% (10% IPA/90% water). Other methods of prepping are Dawn washing and Prepsol. IPA and Prepsol can lift waxes then allow them to redeposit if not wiped well or rinsed so again, I prefer the Power Clean wash and rinse method because for me time is money. I understand your concerns to get it right with the word permanent in the equation, but it really couldn't be simpler to work with and after you apply it ONE time, you will know you overthought it.
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Any response?