Iron X question...

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WRAPT C5Z06

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There's 2 things in detailing I don't look forward to doing at all, they are, taping the car off and claying. Can Iron X replace claying?
 
Subscribed. Good question mark. I don't think it can but want to know too.
 
My best educated guess would be no. I have not used IronX but i have it in my cart so i will soon

My reasoning behind that would be that IronX works on Iron imbedded in the paint but it doesnt do anything on stuff like tree sap and industrial fall out that sticks to the paint.

Again this is just my best educated guess. and I would like to know as well.

Good question Mark!
Jon
 
that is what my understanding is as well. Rather than just shear off the exposed bits of iron with clay, leaving the embeded stuff in the clear, the iron is dissolved. Doesn't do anything to overspray, sap etc though...

If anything, with all the iron gone, claying should be easier and go faster, the clay should last longer etc.

Sounds good in theory, and I have seen the vids of a white car being sprayed with Iron X, it turning purple, rinsed, then resprayed with Iron X. This time, nothing turned purple as there was no iron left to react with the product. So it's not a timed colour change and is doing something.

IMO, it's worth a try, even on my black car, though I will probably just have to have faith that it is working...
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
There's 2 things in detailing I don't look forward to doing at all, they are, taping the car off and claying. Can Iron X replace claying?
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hahahaha...me too:xyxthumbs: But i was just looking at the 1Z product shampoo that takes iron out of the paint before wash or something like that, but whatever, i think claying is needed and also really important before polishing so yea...

AND DOES ANYBODY HERE not wash their project car but just spray foam from pressure cannon or foam gun and just clay the car instead of wash the car and clay it? Because there was the Lambo underground racing merglico here that posted i think is (Zero to Hero) dont recall that doesnt wash it and spray it down with foam and clay it directly.
 
Troy Fuller said:
Bcause it only removes the iron deposits, not the other junk?

Ellaborate if you don't mind please.
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Correct. It only reacts with certain deposits on the paint and will do nothing for other deposits whereas clay bars grab whatever they come across if they can remove it by "grabbing" it and pulling it into the clay bar.

Also, I have run into a few cases where SOME embedded iron particles have been so embedded in the paint that you have to use IronX in conjunction with a heavy clay bar (clay magic red, meguiars aggressive) to get them out (which ruins the clay bar, for those who are wondering).

However, for most vehicles, treating them with IronX or IronCut will cut your clay time down to "normal claying time" if trying to remove embedded iron particles.
 
guccigucci said:
AND DOES ANYBODY HERE not wash their project car but just spray foam from pressure cannon or foam gun and just clay the car instead of wash the car and clay it? Because there was the Lambo underground racing merglico here that posted i think is (Zero to Hero) dont recall that doesnt wash it and spray it down with foam and clay it directly.
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The only problem with that is you are trading out wash mitts, which are rinse-able and reusable, for clay bars, which are not reusable after a certain point.

Also, if the paint were heavily contaminated or just improperly "clay washed" you would essentially be rubbing your paint with a piece of sand paper.
 
Mark, if you dont like clay, try the Elastomer Bar. CG sells it with lube for ~ $20. If you dont like the smell of ASD You will hate the smell of Iron X! Is this Deja Vu all over again with us?
 
Old Tiger said:
Mark, if you dont like clay, try the Elastomer Bar. CG sells it with lube for ~ $20. If you dont like the smell of ASD You will hate the smell of Iron X! Is this Deja Vu all over again with us?
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I haven't tried the Elastomer Bar but I have heard some like it some hate it because it can't be molded. What's your experience Old Tiger?

Also, yes, Mark, you will absolutely hate the smell of this stuff if you are faint-nosed :laughing:

Sonax smells like a perm but IronX smells like rotten eggs!
 
Old Tiger said:
Mark, if you dont like clay, try the Elastomer Bar. CG sells it with lube for ~ $20. If you dont like the smell of ASD You will hate the smell of Iron X! Is this Deja Vu all over again with us?
Click to expand...

Jim, I got talking to Rick of Ultima at DF about the bar that Ultima sells and learned a bit about it. It sounds like they are different then similar bars offered by some companies. Will have to remember to tell you about that next time we talk.
 
Old Tiger said:
Mark, if you dont like clay, try the Elastomer Bar. CG sells it with lube for ~ $20. If you dont like the smell of ASD You will hate the smell of Iron X! Is this Deja Vu all over again with us?
Click to expand...

I've tried their clay block with luber! To be honest, its amazing!!

Its kinda like aggressive clay and easily removed stubborn spots!

I use it on panels that i'll be polishing afterwards! After claying one section with it, I just wipe the surface of the block with a a mf towel to pick up whatever contaminants are stuck and the back to claying!:xyxthumbs:

I use my normal moldable clay in case I'm changing the LSP and want to prep surface properly!
 
I don't think the smell of Iron X or Sonax for that matter is as bad as ASD. It is more foul for sure, but not as penetrating. The smell cleans up easier than ASD, which doesn't mean much as it still takes some APC 4:1 or other craziness to clean Sonax off my wheel brushes. Iron-X smell dissolves quickly after finishing the wash.

Iron-X cuts down claying, but does not replace it. Tar deposits, which are more prevalent than iron or brake dust deposits, will be unscathed by Iron-X. IMO the paint feel more clean after Iron-X and clay over clay alone. For light colored cars it is almost a must. I did a silver S2000 over the weekend and received my Iron-X after I had clayed the car. So I sprayed IX onto the paint just for kicks. After a minute I saw the area I had missed: a whole quarter panel!

Iron-X is definitely something worth adding to the cart, although not a necessity. Clay, IMO, is a necessity.
 
^So, should it be like, Clay > IronX > wash

Or IronX > Clay > wash or Clay > IronX > clay > wash ?

Sorry for the confusion(if any) :o
 
sohail99 said:
^So, should it be like, Clay > IronX > wash

Or IronX > Clay > wash or Clay > IronX > clay > wash ?

Sorry for the confusion(if any) :o
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I would assume it's wash, IronX, rinse, clay, wash

:dunno:
 
What about using that Surf City clay liquid on DA machine. Anyone have any experience with that? Or use that method instead of the normal clay bar. I saw it last night at Pep boys and I really like Surf City's Beyond Black tire dressing.
 
Hi All.
ill try to answer in short for most question,
first, IronX doesn not replace claying, BUT it will reduce allot the marring possibility caused by clay bar, and keep the clay longer life for using with less contaminants attached.
jlb85 said:
I don't think the smell of Iron X or Sonax for that matter is as bad as ASD. It is more foul for sure, but not as penetrating. The smell cleans up easier than ASD, which doesn't mean much as it still takes some APC 4:1 or other craziness to clean Sonax off my wheel brushes. Iron-X smell dissolves quickly after finishing the wash.

Iron-X cuts down claying, but does not replace it. Tar deposits, which are more prevalent than iron or brake dust deposits, will be unscathed by Iron-X. IMO the paint feel more clean after Iron-X and clay over clay alone. For light colored cars it is almost a must. I did a silver S2000 over the weekend and received my Iron-X after I had clayed the car. So I sprayed IX onto the paint just for kicks. After a minute I saw the area I had missed: a whole quarter panel!

Iron-X is definitely something worth adding to the cart, although not a necessity. Clay, IMO, is a necessity.
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you said it all basically, only one thing, its not matter if car is light color or dark, the irons are on any car, even if you dont see it on dark car , its working there, and while washing the ironx off you will see it draining ,

sohail99 said:
^So, should it be like, Clay > IronX > wash

Or IronX > Clay > wash or Clay > IronX > clay > wash ?

Sorry for the confusion(if any) :o
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i would suggest :
wash ,(better even with ironX Soap gel ) >> clay >> ironX >> rinse fully.

we are are in last step of test our tar/glue/wax/water spots cleaner, non alcohol/solvent , so it will help as well to almost eliminate the need for clay.
 
Avi@CarPro said:
we are are in last step of test our tar/glue/wax/water spots cleaner, non alcohol/solvent , so it will help as well to almost eliminate the need for clay.
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That would be heavenly!!! :righton:

So, you still recommend using IronX soap gel AND IronX spray? Soap Gel won't do it by itself?
 
Great thread Mark! I figured that IronX would only cut down the clay time.

I honestly don't mind claying so much other than on a car that is heavily soiled and has a ton of above surface contaminants.
 
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